Summer 2022, Part IV - NAINITAL

 The drive to Nainital was a very enjoyable and smooth one. Our driver, Mr. Danish (9837312460) was a very cheerful person who took care to not only point out to us important landmarks, but also stopped the car and encouraged us to step out for photographs at some great sites. 

The drive takes you through some scenic landscapes & peach orchards. Mr. Danish informed us that many of the trees would soon have lush, juicy peaches ready for the picking.

Mumbai à Mussoorie à Rishikesh à Jim Corbett à Nainital à Amritsar

 

At some point going uphill, it began to rain, adding a chill to the already cool air. Up ahead, we could see the peaks shrouded in dark clouds and Mr. Danish predicted a foggy day ahead.

Soon, judging by the increased traffic on the narrow mountain road, we were in Nainital. Driving past Bara Bazaar, we cut across Mall Road and stopped at Hotel Himalaya, in which we had booked the Heritage Suite. 

The hotel is located at Tallital, the lower end of the lake. It’s a beautiful property with comfortable rooms offering views of the lake and of the mountainside. Service is courteous and the room was great!

The Heritage Room at Hotel Himalaya

Since we were tired to step out immediately, our friends in the adjoining room ordered room service (Butter Chicken & Roti) and shared their meal with us. Realised then that Hotel Himalaya serves up tasty meals in large portions at a very decent price. 

After lunch, we decided to walk around the lake, going along Thandi Sadak, through the Tibetan Market and back around down Mall Road. 

A little about Nainital as we walk along…

Located in the Kumaon foothills of the Himalayan range, at an altitude of 1938 mtrs. above sea level, Nainital is a pretty little town set in a valley containing an eye shaped lake, approximately 2 miles in circumference. Surrounded by hills all around, this hill station exuded old world charm and is popular with tourists all year round. The lower, or southern end of the lake is called Tallital, while the northern end (marking the beginning of Mall Rd) is called Mallital.

There’s an interesting story about how the town got its name. According to mythology, after the death of the Goddess Sati, Shiva carried her body and roamed around the universe with it. Lord Vishnu had cut her body into 51 parts, each of which fell on the Earth. The spots at which these pieces fell became sacred sites or Shakti Peeths. The spot where Sati’s eyes (or nain) fell, came to be called Nain-tal or lake of the eye.

Coming back to the path we were on - Thandi Sadak is a cool, tree-lined, fairly isolated street bordering the lake. It’s not too crowded save for a few people taking an evening walk, some youngsters enjoying the view or visiting the nearby Pashan Devi Temple. The canopy of trees here provide cool shade at all times thus giving it its name - Thandi Sadak, or Cool Street. 

This street ends at the far end of the lake where one can visit the sacred Maa Naina Devi Temple (dedicated to the Goddess Shakti) and the bustling Tibetan Market, also known as Bhotia Market. This market seems to be hit with shoppers as it has much to purchase at really cheap prices. Not sure why it’s called the Tibetan Market, though. There was only one shop selling Tibetan goods. All the others were not very different from those at other hill stations.

If you’re hungry, there are also many street stalls selling noodles, momos, wraps, chai, coffee & hot chocolate. 

We didn’t spend too much time here as, being a weekend, the place was teeming with people. Cutting across the Bhotia Market, we started walking along Mall Road.  From 6-9pm every evening, one side of this busy thoroughfare is kept strictly for pedestrians only. It is lined on one side by the lake and on the other by many shops, hotels, restaurants and a pretty little church.    

Before heading back to the room, I walked into one of the local markets and purchased a local sweet from the Bisht Mithai Shop. Baal Mithai is made by heating and reducing milk & sugar till it forms a caramelised goo. This is then cooled, cut into thick cubes and rolled in sugar-candy. 

Early the next morning, as always, I picked up my camera and decided to catch the town waking up to a new day. It was a little before 6am when I stepped out of the hotel, a few locals were out for their morning walk, and the boatmen were cleaning their boats in preparation for the day’s share of business. 

 After walking a-while, I entered the cool & quiet recesses of St. Francis Catholic Church. Built in 1868, this church is dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi and belongs to the Catholic Diocese of Bareilly. 

At that hour of the morning there were just two other people in the church, the Priest, praying softly in the first pew, and Mrs. Eva Paul, the sacristan, who was setting the altar for Holy Mass, that began at 7am. Even then, it was just the three of us in that hallowed space. 

After Mass, I sat speaking to Eva. She informed me that theirs was a small parish of around 6 to 8 Catholic families. While a few came in for the Sunday service, weekday masses usually had no attendance, on account of the dwindling Catholic population. Making a mental note to tell my companions about this, I thanked Eva for making time to speak with me, and left the church. 

Having nothing better planned for the day ahead, I joined some of my companions on a day tour. 

Any of the local tour operators will offer a set itinerary for day trips which include Lake Tours, Temple Tours etc. Being informed that Nainital is by far the best lake (Tal) to visit, we opted for the Mukuteshwar Day Tour, which, it turned out, was a great choice. 

The car collected us from the hotel at 10am and we began our tour. Once again, we were accompanied by a cheerful driver, Mr. Pankaj Bisht who led us, first, towards the small town of Bhowali and its Fruit Market. We purchased fresh, juicy peaches, cherries and walnuts. Also a few candied fruits to take back home. Mr. Bisht introduced us to Kaphal, a sweet & tangy berry like fruit that is popular in Nainital. 

Next, we stopped at the Shyamkhet Tea Estate. Here, we walked into a pretty tea garden and visited their café to sample some of their home blends. The estate is well maintained, clean and is a good spot to spend a peaceful hour chatting over chai. 

Driving on past Apple orchards not yet in bloom, we headed next towards the Goljyu Devta Mandir. Golu Devta, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, is strongly worshiped by locals all across Nainital. The temple is beautifully situated atop Ghorakhal hill, overlooking Bhimtal. What’s special about this temple is that devotees offer their petitions written on a physical piece of paper that they hang in the temple. You can see these all around…handwritten letters on plain sheets of paper, some on colourful sheets, and some even on legal paper. Hanging there, are supplications, pledges and even job applications. Once these prayers are answered the devotee returns to put up a brass bell in the temple. All around the temple are thousands of bells of varying sizes. The temple has such a positive, happy vibe to it! I’d say it has been the highlight of the tour for me.  

Our final stop was a fairly long drive away, at the Mukuteshwar Temple. Not wanting to climb the many stairs, we decided to take the more scenic path towards Chauli ki Jali, meaning a rock with a hole in it. This spot is a popular hiking spot and great for views from atop the cliff with a sheer drop. 

Here's the hole through the rock!

On a clear day, this spot provides superb, panoramic views of the snow-clad Himalayas. Those wanting a spot of adventure can try zip lining here. Moving on, we made our way through the forest towards the Mukteshwar Temple. This temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is said to be at the site where he defeated a demon and offered him ‘Mukti’ (salvation). Hence, the name ‘Mukteshwar’. 

 Before heading back, we sat to enjoy some Rajma-Chaval at one of the many stalls that line the entrance to Mukuteshwar. The rice is freshly cooked in a pressure cooker while the rajma (kidney beans) are slow cooked over a rustic wood fire. Portions are generous and second helpings are ladled out with a liberal hand. 

The entire day, we were blessed with great weather and wonderful experiences. On the long drive home, Mr. Bisht regaled us with stories of kidney beans and local folklore. 

The next morning, I once again set out on my solitary exploration. I hired the services of boatman to take me for a ride across the lake in a shikara (wooden row boat). Mine was the first and only boat on the water at that hour. What a lovely experience it was! Just me, Kishanlal (the boatman) and the gentle, rhythmic sound of the oars cutting through the water. Serenity at its best!

Kishan-ji, from Almora

After thanking Kishan-ji, I walked back to the church where Eva was happy to see that my companions had also gathered for the morning service. She happily distributed hymnals and expressed the hope that we would sing and join in the Mass, making it a joyful celebration. I can confidently say we were all glad for having done that. 

After sipping on tea at a local tea-stall, I dropped in at the British-era Library. Set up in 1933, the Durga Sah Municipal Public Library is the town’s oldest & only library. It’s a charming little place that offers great views of the lake and smells of old books and wood. It also exhibits some charming old pictures of Nainital as it was during the British occupancy. Picking up a romance novel from one of piles of books by the entrance, I settled myself into an armchair in the corner and proceeded to read for the next hour or so. 

Later, I skipped the visit to the Botanical Gardens (a well laid out and educative experience) and chose, instead, to explore the town on foot. Walking across, I ate a street-style burger & then stood admiring the beautiful Jama Masjid, built in 1882. From there, I headed towards Bara Bazaar (the local market) & purchased a few kurtas I needed for the next leg of my journey. 

Just then, the rain came pouring down and I hugged my bags closer under my rickety umbrella & hurriedly made my way to Sakley’s Restaurant and Pastry Shop (estd. 1944) for shelter from the rain & a huge slice of their delicious Blueberry Cheesecake. The ambience here is cozy, music is great and the desserts are worth trying. Stayed here till the shower had subsided.

By the time I was done with the Cheesecake, it had begun to rain again, so instead of walking back to the hotel, I hired a local cycle rickshaw that plies between Mallital and Tallital. 

Changing into dry clothes, I then joined my companions for a long drive to Bhimtal and Naukachiatal. By then, the sun had come back out from behind the clouds and was shining down in all glory. The drive to the lakes was smooth and uneventful, although we did pass some lovely trees with lavender flowers and also a Hanuman Temple.

The lakes themselves were pretty isolated with not much to do by way of sightseeing or shopping. Very unlike Nainital. Somewhere between these two lakes, are great spots for paragliding, if you're into running off mountainsides and floating in the air.

We spotted this one paraglider and drew up the courage to give it a try ourselves. Then, we saw him madly sway around and decided we weren't brave enough. No paragliding for us.

Before heading towards the boats, we had a quick lunch of Kadhi-chaval at a local eatery beside Naukachiatal. Here, I spotted a little swallow comfortably perched on one of the blades of the fan. It had made its nest inside the restaurant.

Tourists here can enjoy boat rides in paddle boats or shikaras. Another option is kayaking. That’s what we did. One can either attempt this in pairs or opt for the guide to accompany them. Being pathetic at rowing, I chose the latter & spent the next 30 minutes pretending to row the kayak while all the time chatting with the boatman. He told me of life in Nainital and I bored him with details of life in Mumbai. 

After the kayak ride, I sat with my feet in the water, nursing a cool drink of lime-soda and a red dragonfly to keep me company. 

My new friend.

Did you know, the Japanese believe a red dragonfly to be sacred - a symbol of courage. Many consider the red dragonfly to be indicative of rejuvenation, change and good luck.

Dinner back at Nainital was a leisurely affair at Sher-E-Punjab. We feasted on tender & flavourful Tandoori Chicken, Chicken Tikka Masala and Garlic Naan. Dessert was sweet lassi & lime-soda. 

Our last morning in Nainital found me still in bed at 8am. Taking our time packing, we checked out of the hotel and, leaving our bags at the hotel, made out way to the Taxi stand for the Nainital Zoo. 

There are five taxis that ply to & from the zoo. For Rs. 60 a seat you need to purchase a return ticket for this ‘shuttle’. After waiting for a little less than an hour, we were shepherded into a ‘shuttle’ with around seven other people and were on our way to the Nainital Zoo that opens at 10am.

Nainital Zoo, officially known as Bharat Ratna Pt. Govind Ballabh Pant High Altitude Zoo, was established in 1984 high atop the Sher ka Danda Hill overlooking the lake. It is the only high altitude zoo in North India, besides those in Sikkim & Darjeeling. 

This very well-maintained zoo is home to many endangered species of animals in the Himalayas. It also houses a Veterinary hospital within the premises. 

From the shuttle drop point, one has to walk 200 mtrs. uphill to get to the ticket counter. Since the weather was cloudy & hinted if rain, the climb wasn’t too tedious. While entry & camera charges are nominal, senior citizens can avail of free entry. One is not permitted to bring in any edible items. If you are carrying any, they must be left at the security checkpoint. 

On entering the zoo there’s a beautifully landscaped space where tourists can click pictures. A little ahead is the Nature Interpretation Center that showcases a small, but nicely planned exhibit about wildlife, our earth, the environment and Nainital itself. 

The zoo premises are very clean, with well-marked pathways directing visitors ahead. There are also plenty of boards providing detailed information about the flora and fauna within the zoo. 

As mentioned earlier, the zoo is home to many endangered species of Himalayan creatures such as….. 

Himalayan Bear

Royal Bengal Tiger

Leopard Cat

While the Red Panda remained stubbornly hidden from view, we did see....

Barking Deer

Leopard

Himalayan Ghural

Blue Sheep

Markhor

In addition, we also saw many birds, such as the Cheer Pheasants, Rose Ringed Parakeets, Red Jungle Fowl, and all of the following -

Himalayan Monal

Yellow Pheasant

Golden Pheasant

Silver Pheasant

Peacock

Owl

Albino Peacock

Steppe Eagle

Lady Amherst Pheasant

Drop in for a few minutes at the Gangnath Ji Mandir, a small temple within the zoo. It’s not grandiose, but it echoes the look and feel of the Goljyu Devta Temple we spoke of earlier. 

On exiting the zoo we took the shuttle back to Mall Road. It was now lunch time and we had a birthday to celebrate (not mine). Back again at Sher-E-Punjab, we feasted on a treat of delicious Reshmi Chicken Kebabs, Kadhai Chicken and Garlic Naan. For dessert, we zeroed in on their Shahi Toast, which is a rich, creamy delicacy. 

Post lunch, we walked a little to enjoy the sight of the fog rolling in from the valley below. Also used the opportunity to look around the houses and shops that lined the street on the road leading to Kathgodam. 

There wasn’t much else left to do for the day. Our bus back to New Delhi wasn’t until 7pm. Until then, the good people of Hotel Himalaya kindly permitted us to plop ourselves in their comfortable lobby. They even treated us ladies to piping hot chai. 

At close to 6.30pm, we collected our bags and made our way to the Tallital Bus Stand. From there, spot on time, we were picked up by a car that drove us an hour and a half to Haldwani, from where we had to board the bus. 

The ride to Haldwani was smooth. Not much to see as it was past sunset, but upon entering Haldwani the scene changes to brightly lit department stores, large hotels and busy markets. 

Our bus was ready & waiting, with clean & cool interiors. Not much to say about the journey other than that it must have been comfortable seeing that I slept right through the journey. You might as well grab your forty winks with me, too, dear reader.

There’s more travel to be done & yet another interesting adventure ahead. 

Pics by Misha