The year 2022 has been good for travel. To close this fairly eventful year, I decided to explore two places, one of which is a photographer’s delight while the other has a rich history. Varanasi and Lucknow are two places that have always been on my go-to list, so I was quite excited to get this little vacation started.
Boarding the early morning flight from Mumbai, we arrived at Lal Bahadur
Shastri International Airport around half past ten. Finding the airport cabs a
little overpriced, we stepped out of the airport to be met by a couple of
rickshaw and cab drivers offering rides to Varanasi. After a few minutes of
haggling over the fare we employed the services of a cabbie named Mr. K. K.
Rai. With a Masters in History, Mr. Rai was quite eager and willing to provide
information of the city we were heading towards and the sights we were passing
by.
Quite pleased with his polite manner and the information he was sharing,
we decided to hire him to drive us to Sarnath the next day. But more about that
later. Let’s get back to the day at hand.
Stopping outside St. Thomas Church, we walked 850m along the Dashashwamedh Ghat Road, trying to find our way to the guesthouse we had booked for our stay. Dashashwamedh Ghat Road is lined on either side with colourful shops and there are vegetable vendors selling fresh veggies on the pavements. Little shrines are found at frequent intervals and there are narrow lanes leading away from the main street. Not sure which of these alleyways we had to enter, we asked for directions and turned in towards the Bangali Tola, making our way through the very narrow, winding lane, often stepping into tiny shops and stairways, making way for bikes that came by.
The entire experience was quite surreal. It was almost as if we were stepping into another world that existed in a time gone by. This had to be the place where time stood still. Passing by many little eateries, wee little shops and numerous guesthouses, we finally found the Buddha Guest House, a simple two-storied guesthouse that provides accommodation in private rooms and in a mixed dormitory. Our room, on the second floor was fairly comfortable, with an attached bathroom.
Completing our check-in formalities, we set out to discover
Varanasi. But before we could do that, we had to, once again, find our way
through the maze of lanes and by lanes. After following our nose, and with some
help from friendly locals, we made our way out to the Dashashwamedh Ghat Road.
This time, we found ourselves closer to the ghats, in the middle of what looked
like a vegetable market. Here, there were also many little food stalls selling
mouthwatering chaat, sweetmeats, hot
samosas and deliciously creamy lassi.
Still feeling full from our meal at the airport, we decided to skip lunch and
headed towards the nearest lassi stall.
Lassi is served in earthen bowls, and the sweet curd is topped with thick cream and saffron syrup. Enjoying every spoonful, we scraped our bowls clean and continued our walk towards the Dashashwamedh Ghat that was being cleaned in preparation for the Ganga Aarti that’s held every evening around 6.40pm.
Since it was a pleasant afternoon, we
made our way towards the many boats bobbing about on the river and hopped into
one. These boats offer rides along the Ganges, offering great views and some
information of the many ghats that Varanasi is famous for. Starting at
Dashashwamedh, the boat made its way towards Harishchandra Ghat, one of the two cremation ghats in Varanasi. It
is believed that King Harishchandra once worked at this cremation ground,
having given up all his worldly goods to appease the Sage Vishwamitra. Of
course, by virtue of his his exemplary strength, honesty and courage, the King
won back his throne, kingdom and family, and since then, this ghat is known as
Harishchandra Ghat, in honour of the King.
Turning around, we
make our way in the opposite direction, crossing various ghats, some deserted
and others bustling with activity. At the far end, we see the larger of the two
cremation ghats, Manikarnika Ghat. This
ghat, just like the Harishchandra Ghat, is highly revered because it is
believed that being cremated here, in Varanasi, leads one to break the cycle of
rebirth and attain salvation. It is believed that one of Sati’s earrings fell at this spot, thus giving it its name
Manikarnika (Manikarna, in Sanskrit, means earrings). Another legend speaks of
the ghat deriving its name from a gem that fell from Lord Shiva’s ear as he was
dancing angrily.
This ghat, active at all hours, is truly a sight that makes you pause.
Even while smoke billows out from the many chimneys of the electric
crematorium, one can see numerous pyres burning along the shore. Asking our boatman to get us off at the
nearby Lalita Ghat, we made our way towards Manikarnika Ghat. What’s
fascinating about this ghat is the amount of serenity that hangs in the air,
mingled with the thick smoke rising from the pyres. One does not hear any
wailing or weeping. Instead, mourners stand by in prayerful silence, while
others sit or stand around, watching the pyres burn endlessly. Ever so often,
the wind blew the smoke in the direction of the people and I wondered who it
was that we were breathing in. Somehow, here, people seems to be at peace with
their mortality and death. Even the animals sitting nearby seemed peaceful.
The Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple is one of the most photographed in Varanasi.
Deciding to walk back towards Dashashwamedh Ghat in time, we began walking in the general direction of the ghat, trying to find our way in the maze of lanes. There are beautiful paintings on most of the walls and the walk is a long and interesting one.
Very often, we had to hop into a street-side
shop to make way for small groups of mourners carrying the dead towards
Manikarnika Ghat. At a short distance away, we came to a chai-wala and stopped
to sip on some masala-chai before
continuing our way towards Dashashwamedh. Along the way, we passed some of the
heavily guarded entrances to the famous Kashi Vishwanath Temple, with long
lines of pilgrims patiently waiting their turn to enter the temple.
Tempted by shops
selling a winter speciality, we tasted our very first bowl of malaiyyo,
a saffron flavoured sweet preparation. It’s only available in the cold, winter
months when the milk is exposed to dew for four-five hours. This dew-exposed
milk is then churned till it creates this foamy, cloud-like texture that just
melts in your mouth. A visit to Varanasi is absolutely incomplete without
trying a bowlful of this delicious treat.
After over an hour of walking through narrow, crowded street, dodging motorcycles and corpses on biers, we reached Dashashwamedh Ghar Road. Hungry again, we stuffed ourselves with some delicious street-food such as palak pakodas (we called them bhajjiyas, and were quickly informed by the vendor that, her in Varanasi, they’re called pakodas) and a sugary, mava filled local sweet known as laung-lata. We were then tempted to try mirchi pakodas, and with my cheeks still stuffed like a squirrel, I moved across the street to order a malai sandwich. The vendor refused to give me one until I had first finished what I was already chewing and then asked us to wash our hands and return for the malai sandwich.
A little before 5pm, a crowd had already started gathering for the evening aarti. Hoping to get a
good vantage point, we booked a seat on one of the boats lined in front of the
ghat. Although there is ample seating on the ghat itself, many choose to watch
the aarti from the water. You can find many boats tied together, gradually
filling up with people, all patiently waiting for the ceremony to begin. No
sooner does the sun set below the horizon, the aarti begins. This is a grand
and elaborate spectacle that draws pilgrims and tourists in large numbers.
These ritual prayer ceremonies honouring the River Ganges, ae held every
evening at the Dashashwamedh and its adjoining ghat.
No sooner is the aarti concluded than the boats ferry people across the river for a night-time boat ride. Giving that a miss, we made our way back towards the guest house, only to lose our way, finding ourselves, instead, in an alley housing several local eateries and small stores. We entered one and ordered a thaali, a platter serving a full meal of rice, lentils, vegetables, and pickles. The food, priced very reasonably, was tasty and quite filling. I ended my meal with a small bowl of rabdi (sweetened milk cream) at a vendor right across the street from the restaurant.
Then, asking for directions, we found our way back to the guesthouse where our
host asked us when we planned to visit the Kashi Vishwanath temple. On hearing
our reservations about the huge crowds and the day long queues, he suggested we
complete the visit immediately as the crowds are fewer after sunset. One thing to remember, pilgrims must enter without any bags, phones and electronic items.
Following his advice, we set out again, looking for the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the holiest of temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. As you near the temple, we saw rows and rows of shops selling garlands and offerings of various kinds. The vendors can be quite pushy, prodding the visitors to deposit their shoes and belongings in the lockers, for a price, of course. It would be advisable to do so just outside the entrance of the temple itself. While my friend paid her respects at the temple, I sat outside its gates, watching the buzz of activity that still continued even at the late hour. In less than 30 minutes, my friend was back outside & we were headed back towards our guesthouse.
DAY 2. Early the next morning, we walked down to Chausatti Ghat, right outside our guesthouse. As the name suggests, Chausatti means 64, and it refers to the 64 statutes of yoginis who are enshrined in the temple built over the steps of the ghat. The scene at the ghats in the morning is far different than those of the evenings. The mornings are serene and peaceful. Boats bob on the waters, while their boatmen sit nearby sipping on chai.
Following their example, we ordered ourselves some sweet & spicy lemon tea before making our way across the ghat, towards the main street. We were headed towards Sarnath, a town around 10kms from Varanasi. Our guide for the day was Mr. K. K Rai, the cabbie from the previous day. Leaving ourselves in his capable hands, we sat back and enjoyed ourselves as he gave us a guided tour of Varanasi. Here’s all of what he had us explore (not necessarily in this order): Kaal Bhairav Temple, Sri Durga Mandir, Sankatmochan Mandir, Tulsi Manas Mandir, and the Mani Mandir.
In addition, we also
got a tour of the famous Benaras Hindu University with its large and
well-planned campus. Here, we visited the Vishwanath Temple and, the highlight
of the morning, feasted on deliciously hot aaloo
puri at one of the stalls outside the temple. Not satisfied with just one
serving of the bread and spicy vegetable curry, I treated myself to a samosa chaat and topped it all with some
sweet & creamy lassi.
Mr. Rai also pointed
out to us some important spots like the birthplace of Rani Laxmibai and that of
our former President, Mr. Lal Bahadur Shastri. He also shared some information
about the life and struggles of Mr. Shastri as a young boy.
Crossing the Ganges,
we visited the Ramnagar Fort, a sandstone structure built in 1750 by Maharaja
Balwant Singh. The current king (in name only) still resides here. The fort
houses a temple, a museum and the residential complex of the royal family. The
museum, housing many palquins, vintage cars, arms and artefacts of wood and
ivory, can be viewed for a small entry fee. The exhibits, however, are not very
well maintained and lack any form of guiding information. Most are in bad state
of disrepair and could do with a little more attention to lighting and upkeep.
Already exhausted with
all the sightseeing, we fell asleep on the drive ahead, and Mr. Rai woke us up
just as we were entering Sarnath,
the place where Buddha preached his first sermon after attaining enlightenment,
and where the Buddhist sangha came
into existence.
We first visited the
Buddhist temples erected by the Tibetans, the Japanese and the Chinese, of
which I found the Japanese temple to be the most serene.
The highlights of the Sarnath visit are Mulagandha Kuty Vihara, the Dhamek Stupa, the Chaukhandi Stupa and the 80ft tall statue of the Buddha. In addition, one must visit the Sarnath Archaeological Museum that houses, amongst other finds, the famous Lion Capital of Ashoka. What was also quite amusing was the number of husbands we overheard complaining to their wives about the excessive selfies they were busy clicking, while the gents stood by holding handbags, purses and restless kids. The wives, still smiling and pouting into their phones, proceeded to snap their Misters into silence, effectively showing us who wore the pants in the house.
By the time we returned to Dashashwamedh Ghat, it was a little after 6pm. We headed for an early dinner of simple curd-rice and then decided to end our day with a boat-ride. As before, the ride took us from one end of the ghat to the other, and like the previous boat-ride, this one, too, was a wonderful experience. It’s quite something to see the ghats after sunset. At many places, the ghats are lit with a golden glow. Some are relatively deserted, while others are still buzzing with colour and activity. The two cremation ghats can easily be identified by the fiercely burning pyres and columns of smoke rising up into the air.
DAY 3. Early the next
morning, on our last day in Varanasi, we were up and out at 4.30am. Our driver
had suggested we attend the Subah-e-Benaras and morning aarti at Assi Ghat. Here, the aarti begins at 5am during
the summer months and around 5.45 during the winters. The aarti always takes
place before sunrise, almost like waking the Ganges to a new day. A few chairs
are placed for visitors and those wishing to click photographs are encouraged
to stand to the sides of the main altars. The ceremony begins with the chanting
of vedic hymns, followed by the aarti and a traditional yagna. In comparison to the evening aarti, I’d say the morning one
seems far more spiritual and serene. It’s an experience not to be missed.
Once the aarti concludes, there is a brief performance of classical music followed by a session of yoga for anyone who wishes to join in. Although the entire experience is absolutely free of cost, I was surprised to see a few visitors being guided to the very front after making a payment. Even so, care is taken to ensure that everyone gets a good view of the aarti. After the aarti, I walked down to the shore to enjoy a quiet morning. A few pilgrims were taking a dip in the icy cold waters of the Ganges, and we were quite embarrassed to see women changing in public, absolutely uncaring of the other people, men and women, standing around. Turning our attention to the glorious sight of the rising sun, we spent a while watching it cast a golden glow over the serene waters before heading back towards our guesthouse.
From Chausatti ghat, where
our guesthouse is located, we took another boat ride across the river. From
here, one gets a good view of the Benares Ghats. This is also a good spot for
anyone wishing to take a dip in the river. The water is cleaner and the place
is not very crowded. There are many makeshift changing rooms set up for the
women while the men do not hesitate to change under the sun and the sky. If you
haven’t come prepared with a change of clothes, you can buy a cheap set of
clothes at one of the little stalls set up on the beach. This worked out really
well for my friend who fulfilled her wish of taking a dip in the holy river.
Me, I was happily strolling around clicking pictures of the ghats, the pilgrims
and the gaily decorated camels offering rides to those interested.
Getting back to Dashashwamedh Ghat, we tried exploring the lanes of Varanasi one last time. Along the way, we stopped at the Khichdi Baba Mandir. Here, khichdi, a preparation of rice, lentils and vegetables, is prepared in a huge quantity. After offering it to the presiding deity at around 10am, it is served in generous quantities to the poor and to pilgrims, who accept it as prasad.
Hoping to make our way back towards Manikarnika and Lalita Ghat. This time,
however, we lost ourselves in the maze of alleyways, quite annoyed when, after
over an hour of walking in circles, we were back where we started. The only
bright spot in all this confusion was the cool and yummy lassi at Blue Lassi. With its walls and ceilings
plastered with handwritten notes and photographs, Blue Lassi is quite
something. There’s a huge and interesting variety of lassi available, but we
tried the dry fruit lassi, recommended by a friendly shopkeeper we’d met earlier.
That done, we feasted on some chaat items, and then, tired after the morning’s adventures, my friend went to bed while I sat at the ghat watching the boats go by. I also visited a few shops to buy myself some traditional banarsi dupattas.
Later that evening,
adequately rested, we stepped out looking for a meal. This, we found at a very
small, local store. There isn’t any board, just a small two-table eating house.
Here we had some yummy, freshly made dosas, filled with crunchy veggies. Prices
are dirt cheap and I was really surprised at that. This place seemed popular
with locals who trickled in at a steady pace, ordering pakodas and dosas. On inquiry, I was told that locals know this
eatery as Tarunda Dosa. Well,
whatever it’s called, this little eating house gets five stars from me.
Bellies satisfactorily
full, we collected our bags from the guesthouse and bid farewell to the ghats.
Mr. Rai was waiting at
the church, in time to drop us to the railway station. As we made our way
through the traffic we looked back on our experiences at Varanasi and concluded
that this, the first phase of our vacation, was just super!
The snore-train to Lucknow.
Our next stop was the
city of Lucknow, for which we boarded the train that arrived perfectly on
schedule. Finding our berths, we quickly asked for fresh sheets and tried to
catch up on much needed sleep before reaching Lucknow. Unfortunately, I got not
a wink of sleep as my fellow passengers treated me to an all-night orchestra
that was most disturbing and very annoying! Everyone of them was snoring in a thousand
different sharps and flats, each competing, it appeared, to outdo the other in
volume. Most surprising was that they themselves slept peacefully through the
night, totally oblivious (or uncaring) to the fact that they had made a public
nuisance of themselves. Get help, people!
DAY 4. Arriving at Lucknow
early the next morning, we stopped a while at the station to have a quick
breakfast of poori-sabzi. The station
was fairly crowded, but clean and we were very impressed by the restaurant and
its service, even at that early hour. Then, hailing an auto rickshaw, we made
our way to our accommodation of choice at Hazratganj.
This accommodation, a
room located in a heritage bungalow, was very tastefully
done-up, and very comfortable with all the required amenities. Our host was
very welcoming and we were thrilled to have booked in such a pretty place which
was so far removed from that at Varanasi.
After a much-needed
bath, we set out to explore Lucknow, especially the ancient structures in the
old parts of the city.
As we neared the
heritage zone of Lucknow, we could see the silhouettes of the Imambaras rising
like ghosts out of the fog. (Yes, it was a very foggy, winter morning.) Almost
all the monuments of the heritage zone are within walking distance of each other
and can be accessed on foot. Our first stop was the Chota Imambara, a beautiful structure built as a congregation hall
for Shia Muslims by the then Nawab of Awadh, Muhammad Ali Shah. It serves,
today, as the resting place for the Nawab and his mother.
At the entrance, we
were politely greeted by two senior Muslim gentlemen, who suggested we purchase
a ticket that would allow us entry into all the monuments of the heritage zone.
Having done that, we were instructed to cover our head with a scarf as the Imambara
was a place of reverence and spiritual importance. One of the gentlemen, acting
as our guide, proceeded to lead us into the Imambara complex, very patiently
pointing out to us various architectural features and sharing with us the
history and significance of the Chota Imambara. Our guide was very
knowledgeable and answered all our queries, allowing us ample time to explore
the place on our own. At certain spots, he even offered to click a few pictures
for us, which, I must admit, he was really good at. He even schooled us (very
cheerfully) about the correct way to address people in keeping with perfect
Lucknowi tehzeeb.
It is required that
visitors take off their footwear when entering the main mausoleum. Inside, we
were shown beautiful chandeliers from Europe, and the Far East. There were many
artefacts of religious significance and, of course, the tombs of the Nawab and
his mother.
The Chota Imambara is
a very beautifully maintained and care is taken to preserve its sanctity and
history. We were very taken in by this Imambara and the wealth of information
we had received from our humble guide.
Sadly, our experience was not the same at the other monuments in the vicinity.
Our next stop was at the Satkhanda. Inspired, in design, by the leaning tower of Pisa, this monument was originally meant to be a seven-storied tower, built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah for his beloved daughter, who, we were told, loved to star-gaze. Unfortunately, the Nawab’s daughter passed away at the young age of eleven, and the Nawab himself passed away soon after, unable to bear the loss of his precious daughter. The construction of the Satkhanda was stopped. The daughter’s tomb can be visited in the Chota Imambara.
Beside the Satkhanda,
is the Photo Gallery, a quaint and
rather small gallery featuring life-size pictures of the Nawabs of Lucknow.
While the paintings are quite beautifully done, what’s special about them is
that they seem to move as you walk around the hall.
There are some people here who offer their services as guides, explaining to visitors, the highlights of the room and the portraits hanging on its walls. What I didn’t quite like was that while there were standard rates for guides printed on a board nearby, visitors are prodded to pay more. However, here, at the Photo Gallery, it still seemed acceptable as the guides were doing their bit in sharing information. From the Photo Gallery, one can get a good panoramic view of the monuments in the heritage zone.
Not so at the Bada Imambara. Much larger in size than
the Chota Imambara, and far more extravagant in design, this site seems most
popular with visitors. The management is, however, very chaotic and lacks much
by way of information. Unlike the Chota Imambara, this site lacks warmth and,
even though it is, too, a mausoleum and a place of spiritual importance, it is
largely treated like any other tourist spot. Loudspeaker blare out incessant
guidelines reminding visitors of the sacred nature of the Imambara, warning
them against cuddling in nooks, spitting, shooting reels or videos and advising
all women to cover their heads with scarves. None of these instructions are
adhered to at all and the appointed guards can be either found napping or busy
on their own phones.
Visitors are charged
beyond the set rate for keeping their footwear in the lockers and the guides hounding
visitors did not seem very welcoming. They are rather pushy and we weren’t sure
whether they were actually guides or just locals hanging around to make some
money.
The Bhool Bhulaiyya, or maze¸ is
interesting, but there are huge splatters of betel leaf juice, or paan at many places. The walls are
scribbled with graffiti of the usual kind, lovers trying to immortalize their
love by carving their names in stone. There are absolutely no plaques providing
any information of the monument’s history or significance.
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Yes, the Bada Imambara
is the favourite among tourists, but, probably because of the many photo-ops it
provides. I shall not deny that it is beautiful, but the mismanagement of this
lovely heritage monument was disappointing, and we left the Bada Imambara
rather disillusioned.
As a student of History, I have read much about the land of the Nawabs and the beauty of Awadh. This maddening chaos was surely a far cry from the Lucknow we had hoped to discover.
Escaping the madness,
we went in search for a place to eat. We had heard much about Idris’ biryani and as it had been highly
rated on many travel sites, we decided to sample its fare. After much
searching, we spotted the restaurant across a busy street. While the food might
surely have been good, Idris itself appeared to be more like a take-away
counter, with no seating save for three chairs placed in a lane beside the
shop. It was right beside a dusty main street and the lack of hygiene of the
surrounding made us think twice about eating here.
Hailing an auto, we
headed next to Dastarkhwan, that
served up some delicious galaoti kebabs,
mutton biriyani and pepper chicken. Being
ravenous, we ordered more than we could actually finish, packing the extras for
dinner. Happy and full, carrying our little food parcel, we did a spot of
shopping and returned to our room.
After a bath and some
hot tea, we sat to plan for the next day. Still quite disappointed with our
experience of Lucknow, and having covered the important monuments, we tried
planning for a day-trip somewhere around Lucknow. Our choice, Ayodhya. Which,
dear readers, turned out to be a poor decision.
DAY 4. With the help of a
friend, we booked a cabbie for our Ayodhya experience. This man, Mr. Ankit, was
at our door to pick us up on time, early the next morning. Being quite cold, we
were met by fog all the way. The drive was smooth, and for us Mumbai-folk, fog
is a magical thing, so I quite enjoyed the experience of being surrounded by
it.
When we were nearing
Ayodhya, our driver warned us not to get taken in by the locals claiming to be
guides. He stated that they could be quite pushy and aggressive. Just how true
he was is something we found out for ourselves as soon as we entered Ayodhya. ‘Guides’
on bikes chased us for over two kilometers, shouting at us to stop by the side
of the road and employ their services. It was quite a harrowing experience and
can make one feel quite unsafe. Firmly ignoring them, we got out of the car for
a few minutes to visit the Ayodhya ghat and watch the boats on the river
Sarayu.
My friend wanted to
visit the temples of Ayodhya, but we were informed by the locals that all
temples at Ayodhya close their doors at 11.30 only to reopen at 2pm. I was not
too keen on waiting until then as the town did not inspire in us any serene or
spiritual feelings. Everywhere, there is some form of construction going on…in
by lanes, along the main road and there’s dust and heat everywhere. Except for
one on the ghat, we found no washroom or place to rest comfortably. There were
neither signs nor any way of garnering any information w.r.t history,
directions or public assistance. I did find one little eating house that I hopped
into, to order a light meal. Except for the puris, the entire meal arrived
ice-cold. The street food at Varanasi is much better.
What I did appreciate
was the kindness of the young man seated at the cash counter. A loud, boisterous
beggar entered the restaurant and ordered a full meal. When I say ordered, I
mean ordered…with the loud voice and his fist banging the table. While the servers
looked annoyed and chose to ignore him, especially after he demanded second
helpings of everything, the young manager, quietly went up to him, looked at
his plate and just as quietly asked the servers to add more food to the plate.
He then went back to do whatever he was doing at the counter.
Lunch done, we got
into the car and drove the 2.5 hours back to Lucknow, ending our ride at the Gol Darwaza, Chowk Bazaar. Here, one
can find rows and rows of shops selling fabrics and clothes of the traditional
Lucknowi Chikankari embroidery. Since this is wholesale market, clothes are
cheaper than elsewhere and you can bargain to your heart’s content. By the time
we were done, each of us had two large bags stuffed with fabrics and kurtas for
friends and family.
Shouldering our treasures, we went nest to Aminabad, Streets here are lined with garments shops and plenty of restaurants and food stalls dishing our kebabs, biryanis and parothas. We selected Tundey Kebabi for dinner. Getting a table here required a little waiting, but once in, service was fairly quick and food was good. For dessert, we stopped at a street stall, buying some shahi tukda and Kashmiri Chai. The latter, looked a lot like rose syrup, but tasted quite soothing and different from any chai I’ve ever had before. We ended our evening with gilauri, a paan stuffed with mava and dry fruits.
DAY 5. Our last morning in
Lucknow was spent exploring the British
Residency. Located in the heart of the city, the Residency is a cluster of
buildings that served as the residence for the British General who was a
representative in the court of the Nawab. These buildings were subjected to
attacks during the uprising of 1857. The walls still bear the scars of cannon
fire, even while the lawns are impeccably manicured and look as pretty as a
picture.
Everywhere, there are boards
providing guidelines and insight into the history of the many buildings in the Residency.
The entire place is absolutely clean and it’s a joy to visit here. Construction
of the Residency took place somewhere between 1780 and 1800, largely in the Islamic
style of architecture. Although mostly in ruins, there is a lot of restoration
underway and here, one can go back in time to enjoy a rich slice of Indian
History.
At the centre of the complex, is the small 1857 Memorial Museum highlighting the contribution of the Nawabs and the happenings of the uprising. The main aim of this museum is to preserve the relics of India’s first war of independence and to offer tourists an insight into the events that shaped Lucknow.
Having a lot of time
to spare, we moved on to the Nawab Wajid
Ali Shah Zoological Garden. I was very impressed by this zoo. Well maintained,
clean and with healthy looking inhabitants, this zoo is a great place to spend
a couple of hours, especially with children in tow. The zoo is very well
planned and has plenty of shaded spaces for people to rest, play and just enjoy
nature. The trees are all labelled, helping visitors identify their scientific
names, and there are some interesting and thought provoking quotes all around
the park. There is also a nice little train that takes visitors all around the
park, going slow enough to allow them to spot the animals in their large
enclosures on either side of the track.
We saw a huge variety of birds and animals, including a giraffe, zebra, some white Bengal tigers and even a huge herd of spotted deer. What we liked best about the zoo is that care had been taken to ensure cleanliness, and the comfort of visitors. We spotted plenty of well-lined dustbins and even some enclosed spaced for nursing mothers, if any. This, we decided, had to be one of the best zoos in India.
With our eyes on the
clock, we moved on towards La Martiniere
College, established in 1845. Within the huge complex, Constantia is a
heritage building dating back to 1796. The founder, Frenchman Claude Martin, is
buried in a crypt below the Memorial Hall. Here, tablets honouring the former
students killed in battle, including the World Wars, surround the bust of the
founder.
We visited the College
Chapel, in which I quite liked the two stained glass windows depicting the
virtues of Work (Jesus as a carpenter) and Wisdom (Jesus with the doctors of
law).
Cutting our visit
short on account of lack of time, we hurried out of the campus and back towards
Hazratganj, stopping only at Shuklaji ki
Chaat for deliciously crispy Aloo
Chaat and Dahi Poori.
Then, quickly grabbing
our bags from our room, we booked an Uber to the airport. Being New Year’s Eve,
the airport wasn’t very crowded and we checked-in our bags and completed the
security process without a hitch. Once at our designated gate, I grabbed a
coffee and we sat chatting until boarding time. All the travel must have caught
up with us, for no sooner had we boarded than we fell asleep, only to wake in
time for our landing in Mumbai.
It had been a hectic
six days, filled with every kind of experience. Hectic, but most enjoyable. The
end of another journey.
Now, where should I go
next?
Pics by Misha.
To view my Varanasi-Lucknow
sketchbook, follow me on Instagram @misha.kamath
