Monday, October 6, 2014

Two Beaches.......Goa.


It’s that time of the year when I get so overwhelmed with the rush of life and I simply had to have a break. At such times, nothing soothes my frayed nerves as much as a few days in Goa…the land of my ancestors…and of delicious seafood.

We had around four days to unwind in Goa before heading back to Mumbai. Although I have close to a hundred relatives living in Goa, we chose to book ourselves into a hotel close to Colva Beach. Graciano Cottages, a green-tiled, one-storied building offers basic comforts and is suitable for couples and tourists who plan on spending most of their time exploring the outdoors. The rooms are not ultra luxurious, but fairly comfortable with a cozy bed, air conditioning and the right amount of quiet and privacy. There is also an in-house restaurant, and although the staff is courteous, service is rather slow.

Like most tourists, we hired a car for the duration of our stay. Vehicles, both two-wheelers and four-wheelers are easily available from anywhere between 300-1000 Rs a day. One can avail of guided tours as well.
Colva Beach, famous for its soft, white sands, is just a two-minute walk from the hotel. Being an early riser I’d pick up a book and sit at the beach while the morning sun crept up behind me. Even in the wee hours of the morning there are quite a few people giving me company. There are bikini-clad tourists rubbing shoulders with locals in Indian beachwear that consists of saris and shalwaar suits.  There are little fishing boats on he shore while fishermen draw in their nets. 
The evening scene is entirely different. The many shops catering to tourists are brightly lit and little ice-cream carts dot the street leading to the beach. There are a number of restaurants at Colva Beach and although they do serve some vegetarian fare, it’s a total shame if one does not sample the delicious goan seafood that Goa is famous for. Many of these restaurants and shacks have live music and karaoke nights to entertain diners. So, great seafood, music and free flowing booze…..all of it adds up to a fun-filled evening. Calamari, Stuffed Squid, Beef Chilly and Masala fried Fish are the things to feast on. The local favorite – sausage bread- is also a must have when in Goa.
However, great food is available even in the cities and in the little, almost hidden by-lanes of Goan villages. In fact, I’d say these little two-table eateries serve the best food at the most pocket-friendly rates. It would do well to explore a little and stray off the beaten path.

Wanting to explore a little of the island of Divar, we drove to the city of Panjim and boarded a ferry towards Divar. The short ride for our vehicle and its three passengers cost us just ten rupees. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and were saddened to hear that the age old ferry system might be stopped in favor of bridges connecting the island to the mainland. Divar is like the only untainted and un-adulterated slice of Portuguese Goa. The quaint villas are nestled among trees and it’s a picture-perfect village. Locals sit in the veranda of their houses watching the world go by while others sit together in the churchyard and discuss whatever it is they have to discuss. Life seems so simple and easy-going here.
We took the ferry back to Old Goa and, stopping a while at St. Cajetan’s, we drove on towards the far north of Goa….Baga Beach.

Now, although the South of Goa has much to offer tourists in terms of food, beaches and the famous ‘sussegaad’ life, if you crave nightlife, crowded streets and other such entertainment, then head to the North. Calangute and its sister beach, Baga are the places you need to visit. Previously the haunts of foreign tourists, today, these places are famous even among Indian tourists. The streets are lined with night clubs, restaurants, tattoo parlors and bars. More often than not, the place is too crowded, especially in the evenings. If such revelry is what you seek, ensure that you stay at one of the many resorts and guesthouses along the beach itself. During peak season it is almost next to impossible to set foot here. Since the streets are extremely narrow be prepared to sit through hours of traffic moving at snail’s pace or, very often, not moving at all. To make the most of your stay, avoid traffic and get decent accommodation it’s advisable to get here at least a day or two earlier….especially for the New Year celebrations. Have fun, but do be careful. Whispered stories and cases of drugs and mafia matters are not uncommon here. Stay safe.

None of us are drawn by crowds, so we turned around and headed back towards the quiet South where we could breathe easy away from the sea of humanity that seemed to have landed at Baga that weekend. Dinner was at the Ritz, in Panjim and then, a long drive later, we hit the sack.
This little holiday was one we hadn't planned in advance, but it was fun, relaxing and just what we needed to refresh and rejuvenate ourselves. 


Sorry....no pics taken this time. Was too keen on soaking up the natural beauty...just couldn't get myself to spend the time peering through the viewfinder of my camera.

Friday, May 23, 2014

America.....two weeks of fun in the sun!



May 03, 2014.
We arrived at London’s Heathrow Airport about an hour ago and have another four hours before we board the next flight. At 2.30 this morning, we began our vacation by boarding a Virgin Atlantic headed for San Francisco with a stopover at London. It’s the very first time that we’re travelling by this particular airline. I must say it’s quite comfortable and so far, the journey has been a pleasant one….except for the horrid disinfectant they sprayed in the cabin just before take-off. I don’t remember this happening on any of my previous flights, but they announced that it was airline policy or something, but isn't it harmful? It irritated my throat long after take-off.
As always, I’d booked myself into a window seat and liked the view of England as we prepared for landing.  
Nearing London....

It was all shades of green dotted with pretty looking cottages and farms. No wonder the best poets and writers hailed from England! It’s 4C here and I’m glad we’re not leaving the airport this time although I do plan to visit England in the near future. For now, we’re just exploring the airport and the many stores it has to offer. I notice that there are many Indians here.

May 03, 2014….again.
This changing of time zones is rather confusing. I left Mumbai at 2.30 am today and there I was, almost 21 hours later, standing in San Francisco Airport at 16.30. 
San Franscisco...as seen from the aircraft.

The second part of our journey was also comfortable and the flight attendants were rather cheerful and seemed keen on ensuring that passengers on board kept eating. We and three others were the only Indians on board. On our arrival, I stood admiring what I could see of SF while hubby-dearest booked us on a Super Shuttle that would take us to our motel. Now, this Super Shuttle is a great way to travel around here. It’s cheaper than local cabs; prompt, comfortable and you can book online. Our driver was a friendly, young Chinese chap who kept chatting as he drove us to our destination. Along the way we saw what, to me, looked like a scene that had jumped out from the pages of a storybook.
Streets of SF

Pretty houses in neat little rows, flowers, clean streets, cotton-candy clouds and a clear, blue ocean in the distance. Every house had three garbage bins on the lawn outside…household waste, recyclables and other trash. What a great system! And the clouds were hanging low over the city....what a beautiful sight it was!
We had booked a room at America's Best Value Inn, a nice little motel close to Fisherman’s Wharf.
America's Best Value Inn
We checked-in, had a much needed bath and then stepped out for dinner. Unfortunately for us, SF seems to go to bed early. It’s only 21.30 and the best we could get were instant noodles. I’m wondering how we’re going to eat it….there isn’t any cutlery in the room.

P.S: Nothing was sprayed in the connecting flight (also Virgin Atlantic). Makes me wonder whether the disinfectant in our previous flight was meant for the cabin or the people inside it???

May 04, 2014.
We were up early today but the sun was up much before us. It’s only 19here and it’s beautiful. We had breakfast at a little deli across the street. People in America eat a lot of meat and when they say ham sandwiches, you can be sure to find a lot of ham stuffed between the bread. 
Bagel for Breakfast

Once we’d wiped our plates clean and the last of the coffee was drunk, we walked downhill towards Fisherman’s Wharf and I fell in love with the place. If you thought Fisherman’s Wharf was a smelly place with streets paved with fish and half-naked fishermen think again.
Towards the Wharf

It’s actually a long stretch with colorful shops on one side and the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean on the other. We sauntered around, browsing through shops and sniffing at the various aromas that floated around thanks to the many eating places that lay scattered around. I’d set my heart on trying the famous Clam Chowder and a tall pitcher of beer. But before we got to that, we took our time exploring the beauty of the Wharf. Lunch was at the Franciscan, a restaurant that offered a great view of the Wharf. I finally had my clam chowder. The chowder, also available in a tomato based sauce, is traditionally served in a sour dough bowl, but I declined that since most people seemed to eat the chowder and throw the bowls away. Now, the bowls are actual, edible bread, and it seems like such a waste to have then flung into bins. I opted for chowder in a ceramic bowl accompanied by slices of sour dough. And beer….glug glug!
Clam Chowder and Sour Dough
 It was here that hubby-dearest discovered root-beer and is now wondering where, in India, he might be able to purchase some.
Next, we took an hour-long ride aboard a Red & White ferry that goes all the way under the Golden gate bridge and around Alcatraz before heading back to the jetty. It’s a very enjoyable ride and also very informative if you listen carefully to the audio system provided by the ferry staff.
The Golden Gate bridge
Alcatraz

Later this evening, we rode the famous San Francisco tram towards China Town. Anyone visiting SF must hop onto the tram.
 It’s absolutely an experience in itself and cannot be expressed in words. The driver is very friendly and keeps talking to the passengers who are either seated in the cabin or standing on the footboard. That’s where I stood and when the driver seemed concerned about my safety, I assured him that I had plenty of experience since I’ve been a regular in the Mumbai trains.
 “People hold on to the posts in Mumbai trains?” a lady asked me with a look of shock.
 “In Mumbai trains, Ma’am, we hold on to whatever we can get our hands on” said I.

Oh, did you know? There's a street just a few blocks away from our motel, and it's called The Crookedest Street' because that's what it really is...the crookedest street ever! I think it's the crookedest street in the world, maybe and it's worth walking uphill to see this road as it winds downhill.

May 05, 2014.
This morning, we left for Davis, a quiet little university town about two hours drive from our motel.
En route, we stopped at Sausalito to enjoy an ice-cream and purchase a lifetime’s supply of salt water taffy in a variety of flavors.

We then took a refreshing walk in the Redwood Forest. It is quite a surprise that such a forest thrives so close to the city and the efforts made by the government to preserve the forest is commendable.

The Redwoods

We stopped for lunch at Super Duper Burgers and are spending the night at the home of relatives. Tomorrow, we leave for Los Angeles.

May 06, 2014.
Early this morning, we sat waiting at a very pretty train station in Davis.
Train station, Davis
We were taking the Amtrak to LA – a twelve hour ride along the coast. The Amtrak is unlike any other train I’ve ever seen. It’s a comfortable air-conditioned train with a separate compartment where passengers can sit and enjoy the view and two other coaches that serve as dining-cars.
The attendants guide you to your seats and regular announcements are made on the PA system announcing stations and meals. The staff is courteous, friendly and quite humorous. If only I’d recorded the announcements! They were extremely creative and funny. To cite an example, the person in charge of the snack bar kept reminding people to come down to the coach and buy their snacks. Finally when it was late afternoon, he was heard announcing, 
“Ladies and gentlemen, this is the last call for those who would like to come down here and get their hands on some bagels and hot coffee. I’ll be taking a short break now…..by short I actually mean a really long break so this is your last chance to grab a bite. Hurrrrrry down then, people!”
Add to that the excellent view of the ocean and rolling hills, and together, it all makes for an exciting train ride. 




May 07, 2014.
Hubby’s cousin took us sight-seeing today and I must say that LA is beautiful. Every house has a sculptured lawn and a huge backyard. 


The property rates here are extremely high, especially if one wishes to enjoy a clear view of the ocean. We followed a trail by the sea and enjoyed the view from atop a cliff.
Although there was a slight wind, it was extremely hot outside. The long walk had me sweating and hungry. So, for lunch, we tried the burgers at In and Out. This burger chain is quite popular for quick service and I’d say the taste isn’t too bad either. Just a suggestion, when you ask for fries, do ask the staff to serve it to you ‘jungle style’. Trust me, you won’t regret it. 

Post lunch, we visited the Getty Museum, that not only allows you to admire many works of art, but also offers a great view of LA. 


Although the tram ride up to the museum and the entry are free of charge, one does have to pay parking charges for ones vehicles. A wonderful thing happened while at the Getty. As we were admiring some works of art, i happened to hear the tune of the hindi song 'kabhi kabhi' (from Silsila). Naturally, since it is one of my favorite songs, I began humming along and looked around for the source of the sound. I was surprised to see it was a senior museum employee, an American, who was not only humming the tune but also sang it with perfect pronunciation and in tune. Wow!

Our next stop was the Pacific Park where we enjoyed some rides in the Ferris wheel and the Roller Coaster. 


We also won some prizes when we tried our luck at the gaming booths. All-in-all, it’s been a good day. Tomorrow we have a date with Mickey Mouse.

May 08, 2014.
Disneyland is so very crowded…..and it’s not even a weekend or a public holiday!
There is a wait of 25-50 minutes for each ride and that can be really tiring. We began with the Jungle Safari, 
visited the haunted mansion, then took a ride in and out of Splash Mountain and around Big Thunder Mountain. I guess what we enjoyed best here was Space Mountain. It is really, really fun! In the California Adventure section, we enjoyed the Hollywood Hotel and experienced an different view of the state in Soaring over California.

It’s been a long day and I could do with a good night’s sleep.

May 09, 2014.
Today we moved to the Palomar Hotel in Westwood. The room is somewhat expensive, but extremely comfortable, close to Westwood Village and well-linked to Hollywood, which is our next place to explore. For today, however, we took it easy and just ambled around Westwood Village which has plenty of options for shopping and dining. We did try the public transport system, and although it’s rather simple, we ended up going in the wrong direction and so had to be satisfied with a long ride all the way to Pacific Heights and back.

May 10, 2014.
It was a day spent along the Walk of Fame today. Hollywood is a buzz of activity, with look-a likes and costumed heroes fishing for photographs with tourists. There are stars on either side of the street…even Woody Woodpecker has a star to his name! People offering bus tours wait on every street corner, but one does not really need to take a bus. I’d suggest tours only for those interested in seeing where the stars live. It’s easy to find your way around if you can get hold of a good street map. Everything that’s interesting is spread out on either side of Hollywood Boulevard. 


We visited Mme Tussauds (entry $23 per person), The Ripley’s Museum ($17 per person) and the Chinese Theatre. It’s just nice walking down the street and watching the flurry of activity that goes on around here. We saw three Michael Jacksons, two puny Iron Men and even the Statue of Liberty posing with smiling tourists.

May 11, 2014.
The morning was spent at the LAX. Today, we flew United to the New York in the East Coast. Again, there’s a change in time zones and we lose time. We left after breakfast, reached New York for dinner and somewhere along the way, lunch was lost in transit. Weeks ago, we had logged-in to airbnb.com and had booked ourselves into a nice looking apartment that was just what we needed. Unable to find a Super Shuttle that was free, we had to take a cab to our hotel, which happened to be right in the middle of a Harlem neighborhood. Now, I’d been told that Harlem wasn't a very safe neighborhood and I was a little wary when we got out of the cab outside our apartment block. It was past sunset already and the streets were almost deserted save for a few guys in hooded tees standing at street corners. We hurried up to our room and were glad to see that it was a clean, well-kept place and much better and brighter than the photographs on the site. From the window, we get a nice view of the George Washington Bridge and the city spreading out into the distance. It reminds me of Mumbai.
While on the subway, I saw something that made me smile. Sitting beside me was a Hispanic lady and standing in front of her was her young son. He was exactly what they show on TV…multiple tattoos, pierced eyebrow and ears, braided locks and pants which hung ridiculously low on his hips. Soon, someone vacated a seat and he perched himself beside his mother. As I sat watching him from the corner of my eye, an old gentleman entered the coach and looked around for a seat. People ignored him and kept talking or reading while I wondered whether I should get up an offer my seat (when I did that in Italy, the old lady was offended). Even as I was considering getting up, the young, tattooed boy, at one glance from his mother, jumped up and offered his own seat with a smile. I could have hugged him then. This incident, and my pleasant experience living in NY taught me one important lesson….appearances can be deceptive.

May 12, 2014.
The morning sunshine brought with it a whole perspective. The streets weren't deserted anymore and the neighborhood was much more cheerful than it looked when shrouded in darkness. It wasn't bad after all. In fact, it was like walking down Colaba Causeway in Mumbai. The streets were lined with eating places, discount stores and super markets. As advertised on the site, the subway is just a block away from where we had set camp. Buying ourselves a metro card (around $2.50 per ride), we took Line 1 and, getting off at Penn Station, walked past Macy’s towards the Empire State Building. Although the Chrysler Building is much prettier and the One WTC is much taller, the 1472 ft tall Empire State Building is still a favorite with the tourists. 



There are two observation decks – the one on the 86th floor is an open-air deck, while the one on the 102nd floor is an enclosed space. Getting up to the observatory requires a ticket of 25$. This ticket and a free audio guide are available inside the building and security guards guide you to the observatory from where you get a good view of the city right from uptown Harlem to downtown Manhattan. From up there, it seems like a great distance from one end to the other, but we were to learn otherwise. Having heard that the ticket lines were extremely long, we were tempted to purchase a ticket form the bookies standing at various places outside and across the building (it costs around $2 more) but buying tickets from inside the building and getting to the observation deck took us not more than five minutes.

Next, we walked to the Grand Central Station and waited awhile to admire The Glory of Commerce, a monumental sculpture that adorns the façade of this breathtaking building.

  Inside, it is like a great ballroom with grand chandeliers and historic bars and restaurants. The vaulted ceiling depicts the nine constellations backwards. This was the painter’s idea as he wished to portray the stars as God sees them. We headed next towards the intersection of Broadway and Seventh Avenue, better known as Times Square which is lit up like a Christmas tree. 

Here, one can find many department stores that promise to empty the wallets and also many theaters where one can enjoy a musical. Here, too, as in Hollywood, Iron Man, Lady Liberty and Elmo willingly posed for pictures.
It’s been a long day and we’re tired. We haven’t planned anything for tomorrow yet.

May 13, 2014.
Today we took Line 1 all the way downtown and hopped aboard the Staten Island Ferry for a trip around the harbor. The 5.2 mile journey from Manhattan to the Staten Island neighborhood of St. George is a free-service and it’s quite the usual thing to see a horde of tourists lined up waiting for the ferry which departs every twenty minutes. Neither of us was too keen on going to Liberty Island or Ellis Island, and we were happy enough with the ride which provided us with a good view of Liberty Island and of the Manhattan skyline. 

Then, following our map, we walked towards the financial district and Wall Street with its famous Charging Bull which could hardly be seen thanks to the many tourists that surrounded it. We walked on, stopped at China Town for lunch and soon came to the Trinity Church which, at the time of its completion in 1846, was the city’s tallest building. The church has a very serene cemetery and an arresting stained glass window over the altar. After spending some time in the quiet of this magnificent church, we walked on towards the WTC Memorial pools, titled Reflecting Absence, or known more simply as the 9/11 Memorial. 

Entry to this memorial is free, and it is suggested that one should reserve a pass online in advance to avoid the crowds that visit this site. Online, in spite of being a free entry, one has to pay a small ‘donation’ of $2 per pass. If, like us, you do not book passes in advance, don’t worry, passes are available on site, for a compulsory donation of not less than $5 per pass. The pools constructed in the footprints of the original WTC buildings are massive and the names of all those who had lost their lives are inscribed on the boundary walls.
 That done, we headed past the Flatiron Building towards Union Square. The 20-storey Flatiron building, built in 1902 has a unique triangular shape and, until 1909, it held the title of being the world’s tallest building. 

Union Square is pretty, with little fountains and people playing chess under the shade of the many trees. There was also a mixed group of people of different race singing ‘Hare Rama, Hare Krishna’ to the accompaniment of Indian musical instruments.


We stood listening to them for a while and then walked on towards the Museum of Sex. For a ticket of around $17, tourists get to see a small exhibit of paintings, models of animals mating and a display that serves to glorify Linda Lovelace, the eternal porn star. There’s also a store where one might purchase some…er…toys, but I’d say the museum isn't quite worth the charge. If you skip this, you won’t miss anything. 
My feet are killing me right now, but it’s been a lovely day!

May 14, 2014.
It was another long walk today. We visited the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA. Entry, $25 per person) and spent a long time admiring the works of Picasso, Andy Warhol and Van Gogh, among others. Next, we walked all the way to Central Park and then proceeded to walk right across it from 59th St to 110th St.. This park, which comprises of more than 800 acres of meadows, ponds and woods, is said to be the lungs of the city and once we entered the park, it was very difficult to imagine that we were still in the city. 




Apart from cycling lanes and shady paths to walk or jog on, the park has seven water bodies, a castle, tennis courts, a baseball park, and twenty one playgrounds for children, a carousel, picnic areas and wide expanses of green grass and tall trees. If we had more time to spare, we’d have loved to spend an entire day just lying on the grass and enjoying the beauty around us. Unfortunately, we leave for Mumbai tomorrow and have to go and pack our stuff. So, we take our time walking across the park (approx’ 4 hours it took us) and then took the subway back to 181st St. where we were staying.

May 15 -16, 2014.
We had booked Air India for our flights back to India as it was the only direct flight available. Travelling by Air India drove home the lesson that I shouldn't be quick to judge others when my own people were behaving like ill-mannered hulks. It is a proven fact that we Indians will be on our best behavior in the company of tourists or in a foreign country, but the moment we’re alone with our own kind, we forget even basic etiquette. The flight home was full of Indians, who were not only loud but also spent what seemed like hours in the restrooms totally unmindful of those waiting outside. Not only that, most of them left the place soiled and the basins clogged making the restrooms unfit for use. In front of me sat a teenage girl, in a high pitched voice trying endlessly to impress the boy seated beside her. To add to my woes, the entertainment service on board was not working so I had fourteen hours of doing nothing ahead of me. The stewardesses were rude and behaved more like archaic headmistresses with not a smile to spare. The stewards were far more polite and cheerful. Having nothing to do, I found the journey to be rather boring and was glad when we walked out of Mumbai airport.

This was a short but power-packed vacation and we left with the hope that we would someday return to explore more of the country.


P.S: If anyone’s planning to stay a-while in New York, the subway is by far the best way to travel within the city. Maps explaining the various routes and lines are available free of cost at any tourist information desk. Don’t let the many numbers and alphabets frighten you, once you get started, it’s all very simple. Just remember to save your Metro Card which is valid for a year. It can be refilled at any subway station and, if you do lose it and require a new card, it’ll cost you a dollar.




Pics' by Misha & Akshay


Tuesday, April 1, 2014

A Walk around Town.....Part One.

Churchgate Station --- Flora Fountain --- St. Thomas Cathedral --- Horniman Circle & Asiatic Library --- Gateway of India (Apollo Bundar) --- Colaba Causeway --- Afghan Church --- Khau Gally (Churchgate) --- Snowflake's (Dhobitalao) --- K Rustom's Ice-cream Parlour (Churchgate)


Komal got a new camera and it isn’t always that one gets a holiday at the start of a work week. These two reasons prompted us to spend Monday morning rambling around town with our cameras in tow. Now, when we Mumbai-wallas say ‘town’ we’re usually referring to somewhere around South Mumbai but I’m only speaking of Churchgate and Colaba. It's summer already here in Mumbai, so I'd already prepared to battle the heat by digging out my old, cheap, light and over sized kurta to be worn on days I set out to quench my wanderlust.

Leaving home at a little after 6 am, we arrived at Churchgate station which, at that early hour was almost deserted. Being residents of Mumbai, we do know our way around town, but nonetheless, I stopped at the Wheeler store and picked up a cheap, yet informative guide book which give information about all bus routes, train time-table, taxi fares and a fairly good tourist map for South Mumbai and the Suburbs. Tucking the book into my jhola (a sling bag made of cloth) and camera in hand, we began our walk at close to 6.40 am.

Our first stop was the exquisitely carved historical monument dedicated to the Roman goddess of spring, Flora. This fountain, designed by Richard Norman Shaw, was unveiled as Flora Fountain in the year 1864. The majestic statue of Flora stands atop the beautiful fountain located at the southern end of Dadabhai Naoroji Road, also known as Mile Long Road. This area also known as Hutatma Chowk (Martyr’s Square) is commonly known as Fort since the place where Flora stands is the exact spot where the original church gate of the Bombay Fort stood before the walls it was demolished in 1860. At peak hours, this spot is extremely noisy and polluted with smog and noise, but in the early hours of the morning, it’s a pleasure to sit a while and enjoy the beauty of Flora and the many crows that come to take a dip in the waters of the fountain.


Walking a few meters away from the fountain, we stopped next at St. Thomas Cathedral; Bombay’s first Anglican Church built in 1718 to cater to the religious needs of the British. One of the gates of the East India Company’s Bombay Fort was also the entrance to St. Thomas. Hence the nearby station is called Churchgate. Today, the street leading to the church is known as Veer Nariman Road. The foundation stone for this church was laid in 1676 but it was opened to the public on the Christmas of 1718. This church was consecrated a Cathedral in 1837. Within its cool and peaceful interiors, many a British officer, generals, clerks and maids are laid to their rest beneath ornately carved tombstones bearing eloquent elegies. There are also many spectacular stained glass windows that cast a serene riot of color across the tombstones and the stone floor of the cathedral. There is no fee to visit this pretty and historic monument, but it is a place of worship and must be treated as such. Photography is permitted and one cannot help but remain silent in awe of the calm that pervades inside this church. Here, one can actually believe that the dead are at peace.
Main Altar
Entrance

Pews


Stained Glass Window
The Word for all




















Just behind this Cathedral lies the large, circular garden known initially as Elphinstone gardens. Today, we know it as Horniman Garden Circle, in honor of Benjamin Horniman, the editor of the Bombay Chronicle and a supporter of Indian Independence. The garden, planned in 1869 and completed in 1872, was a favorite social venue for the Parsi community and, in a live band used to perform here every evening in the pre-independence period.




The Asiatic Society Library & Town Hall overlooks the Horniman Garden Circle. It houses over a hundred thousand books of which at least 15,000 are rare and valuable pieces. The library is also home to one of the only two known original manuscripts of Dante’s Divine Comedy. Other that books, the library has many artifacts, manuscripts in Persian, Prakrit and Sanskrit, and also a numismatic section containing 11,829 coins. It has a map collection of 1300 maps. Although quite popular, the membership has dropped considerably due to the availability of information on the internet.

Walking down the many stairs leading to the Asiatic Library, we walked along the naval dockyard towards the Apollo Bandar. Being a defense area, photography isn’t encouraged, but I simply had to get a shot of the murals painted on one of the walls. En route to the Apollo Bandar, one also passes another heritage monument, which is today the Maharashtra Police headquarters and some other beautiful pieces of architecture, that make you wonder at the artistic sense of the British.
Murals



Police Headquarters
The Gateway of India, a monument built during the British Raj in Bombay (today known as Mumbai). The 26mtr high structure located at Apollo Bandar was built to commemorate the arrival of the British King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. Its design is a combination of hindu-muslim style of architecture and is a very popular tourist destination. 
The Gateway of India


The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel
It is here that one boards ferries headed towards Alibaug and Elephanta. There are five jetties at the gateway, of which one is no longer functional and two are closed to the general public. Sitting in the shade of the arched monument, we had a light breakfast and watched the slowly growing swarm of tourists as they posed for pictures, fed the pigeons, waited for the ferry or just sat around enjoying the sight of the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel. At night, this monument is lit with the colors of the Indian Tri-color and it was from this very spot that the British departed India on 28 February, 1948.

Having rested a while, we moved on towards Colaba Causeway, a usually bustling tourist shopping hot-spot, which, at that time of the day (approx’ 9.30am) was still asleep. We were headed to the Afghan Church, which is located in Navy Nagar. On learning that it was an extremely long walk ahead, we took the bus to our next destination of choice.

The Church of St. John the Evangelist, better known as The Afghan Church is an Anglican church in South Mumbai, built by the British to commemorate those who died in the disastrous Afghan War of 1838. Built of buff-colored basalt and limestone on the outside, we found this church rather beautiful with a haunting quality to it. Since the doors were all shut, we took a walk around the church and I must say we were very shocked at the amount of garbage that is strewn around the churchyard. We were rather dejected at not being able to enter the church and had just whispered a prayer towards Heaven, when we spotted one of the side-doors being opened by the caretaker’s wife. Requesting permission to enter for just a few minutes, we quickly shut the door behind us.









As opposed to the serene air that hangs over St. Thomas, the interior of this ancient church seemed heavy with a nameless feeling that I find unable to describe in words.  This could be because of the deafening silence and the almost dark and gray interiors. The only light was that that filtered in through the long, narrow windows and the stained glass panel at the east end of the church. Everything has an eerie feel here…the pews, the altar, the panels and the pillars. I could actually imagine Englishmen and ladies walking down its aisles and half expected to find some veiled figures sitting in one of wooden chairs, head bowed as if in prayer.  Komal says the place gave her the creeps, but, in spite of its slightly haunting quality, personally, I found the church quite arresting, especially the altar.
Out in the sunshine, it’s peaceful and bright with the sunlight streaming through the trees and the dried, yellow leaves strewn around at our feet. We sat awhile under one of the many banyan trees that dot the churchyard. While my companion wandered around clicking pictures, it occurred to me that while life continued beyond the walls of this church, here, time seemed to be still.

High Court
We then boarded bus route 103 and alighted at Regal. Our plan was to walk from here towards Churchgate station, admiring the lovely architecture that was all around us. This crescent shaped precinct, known as Kala Ghoda, is full of museums, art galleries and heritage structures. Here, one will find the Prince of Wales Museum (now known as Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangralaya), the National Gallery of Modern Art, the Arts Trust and, my favorite, The Jahangir Art Gallery.  We turned left at Watson’s Hotel, now known as Esplanade Building, India’s oldest surviving cast iron building, and stepped onto the Karamveer Bhaurao Patil Marg, with the Oval Maidan on one side of the street and the imposing Mumbai University and High Court on the other. 
The Oval Maidan

Mumbai University
Founded in 1857, the Mumbai University was established by Dr. John Wilson. The famous Rajabai Clock Tower standing 280 feet tall and was modeled on London’s Big Ben and is reported to have played 16 tunes. At a height of 30 feet from the ground, I’ve been told there are eight statues representing various Indian castes. Since the tower is currently undergoing some restoration work, I was unable to get any pictures. Well, there’s always another time!

Since it was lunch-time, we headed for Khau Gally, a tiny lane packed with tiny eateries catering to the busy Mumbaikar who’s looking for a quick, tasty meal. Here, one can feast on chaat items like sev-puri and bhel-puri, or enjoy some hot pav-bhaji or noodles and fried rice. Mini meals of vegetable, pulses and rice/roti are also available at a nominal price. If you expect to dine in style, then Khau Gally isn’t for you. Meals are eaten standing at the stalls while the rest of the world passes by.


















Although I enjoy street food and have absolutely nothing against eating on my feet, I had my heart set on another place I always frequent when in town. Located in a by-lane at Dhobitalao, close to Marine Lines station, this 80 odd year old restaurant dishes out simple, yet delicious Goan fare. So, if you have a craving for some spicy fish-curry-rice, rechadio bangda or roast beef and pork vindaloo, head to Snowflakes






Originally owned by one Mr. Joaquim Pascal Ribeiro, this tiny family-run restaurant has a cozy home-like feel to it. There are old wooden cabinets, family photographs, marble topped tables and wooden chairs. Frequented by the many Goans who live in the neighborhood, Snowflakes tops my list of favorite places to dine at.

For dessert, we walked back towards K. Rustom Ice Cream Parlor, a 54-year old landmark located near Stadium House on Veer Nariman Road. 


Famous for its ice cream sandwich, a thick slab of ice-cream placed between two wafer biscuits, K Rustom’s offers more than 35 exciting, lip-smacking flavors all made at the parlor itself. Lacking the frills of modern ice-cream parlors, Rustom’s still holds on to its old-world charm and hospitality as it serves its signature sandwiches encased in butter-paper. A trip into town, for me, is incomplete without a gobbling at least two of Rustom’s ice-creams.

Our bellies filled, all we could do now was sit in a train and make the journey back home. There was much more I’d hoped to do, but I’ve put it aside for another day. For now, we’d had an enjoyable morning and wanted nothing more than a nice bath and some sleep.

Total expenditure-Rs. 320/- only. Not bad for an entire morning of fun, isn't it?




Pics by Misha.