Dear Readers, when I completed my bookings for this trip, what followed was a week of doubt and apprehension. Whoever said ‘Travelling alone would be the scariest, most liberating & life-changing experience’ really knew what they were talking about. It was scary! This trip had me all anxious and bothered ever since the confirmed ticket appeared in my inbox. I have travelled alone before, but it’s usually been to a place where, if the need arises, there’s family to run to. However, for a while now I’ve been meaning to go on a real solo trip. To a place where there are no friends to fall back on. After much thought, I settled on Kochi.
After a week of worry & my mum’s voice warning me about the dangers
of strange towns and murderers lurking around every corner, I was finally on my
way to the airport. By the time I got to the airport, the anxiety was replaced
by excitement. I checked in my one bag, grabbed a coffee and proceeded to wait
at the boarding gate.
The flight was smooth and uneventful, except for the one time I spotted a rainbow way above the clouds. It was such a pretty sight!
Kochi welcomed me with a cloudy sky, some light rain and very pleasant weather. I considered booking a pre-paid cab to Fort Kochi, but discovered the Uber was cheaper, so that’s the option I went for. The ride was a pleasant one. We passed little towns, some industries, a few water bodies & lots and lots of green. My Uber driver was also driving down this route for the first time, it seems. When we got to the Vypin ferry, he looked just as surprised as me. This is the fastest way to get to Fort Kochi. It’s just a 2 minute ride across, but what a view it offers!
Once across, it took me another three minutes to get to the homestay.
This was a very old and very charming place run by a Mr. K.J Antony and
his wife. The place is clean, pretty and extremely comfortable. Most
importantly, it was quiet and super peaceful! Just the kind of place I was
looking for!
Mr. Antony was a most wonderful host. He had a lot to share about the
history of the place and its people. He was also kind enough to make
suggestions about the things I could do around Fort Kochi.
My room itself was quite a cheerful one, just right for me. It had two windows, one looking out at an open school ground and the other has me enjoying the sight of a young gooseberry tree and plants like mint & curry leaves.
Having completed the check-in formalities, I headed out to begin my explorations.
DAY 1
Today I’d decided to keep things light. To begin, I took myself towards
the Chinese
Fishing Nets. These huge structures stand not less
than 10 meters high, and comprise of a cantilever with an outstretched net
hanging over the sea, with large stones as counterweights hanging at the other
end. It takes around 5-6 men to operate each net and it’s quite something to
watch them at work. That’s exactly what I did for the next 30 minutes or
so. By the time I decided to move on,
the sun was a little higher in the sky and I began to feel hungry.
Now, Fort Kochi has many great options for eating out. A lot many place are highly rated, very popular and have much to offer to continental tastes. But that’s not really my kind of travel. In Rome, do as the Romans do – that’s my motto! Skipping the more fancy places, I headed to Salt N’ Pepper, a nice little roadside eatery, somewhere behind the Fort Kochi bus-stand. This place, one in a row of many others, is a gem. Service takes a little time, but that’s because the food is cooked fresh and served hot. My order comprised of grilled squid, ghee roast chicken and parothas. Sure it looks like a lot, but trust me, this girl can eat!
As I tucked into my meal, I wondered what to do with the rest of my day.
Considering I’d had an early start to my day, taking it easy seemed like a good
idea. After lunch, I walked around to see what I could see. Well, I saw some
pretty cafes, some stores selling handicrafts and curios, and many ancient
looking houses. I dropped in for a quick visit at the CSI St. Francis Church
and the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica (more about them later). Many auto
drivers called out asking if I was interested in hiring a sight-seeing tour,
but cheerily wished me a good day & drove on when I refused. One, a rather
chirpy gentleman, engaged me in conversation and insisted I note down his
number, in case I wanted to go on a tour the next day.
Taking a break, I spent some time sipping some coffee at the Kashi Art Café, just down the street from my homestay. As the name suggests, there’s some artwork displayed all around the café. The one that caught my attention was one titled ‘Blood Brothers’. At first glance, it looked more like domestic violence to me. Looked the same at second & third glance as well.
My day ended with a visit to the Kerala Kathakali Centre (located on K.B Jacob Road,
behind the Santa Cruz Basilica). In addition to live shows, the Centre also
conducts daily yoga and Kathakali classes. The show begins at 6pm, but I got
there earlier to ensure I got a good seat, right up front. At around 5pm, the
actors seated themselves on stage and began the process of applying their
elaborate make-up. This requires considerable skill and craftsmanship. Next, the
audience was given an insight into the various natural ingredients that are
used to create the colours used as make-up, and then, one of the performers
walked out onto the stage, accompanied by some musicians with drums. Together,
they demonstrated the various eye-movements, bhavas and postures that are part of a Kathakali performance.
Then, after lighting the lamps and invoking the blessings of God, the
main show began. A brief, yet absolutely spellbinding performance. The actors
looked splendid in their grand costumes and brightly painted faces, and while
both the characters did a splendid job, I think it was the man who played Lalitha/Nakrathundi. He depicted her so
beautifully, that we, in the audience, could feel her every emotion – her
desire, her lust, her anger & her rage. It was splendid! The performances
were brilliant and the artists’ dedication to their art is truly commendable!
I was hoping to record the show, but once the performance began, it was so mesmerizing and so beautifully put forth that it seemed sacrilegious to do anything but focus all my attention to the drama unfolding in stage. So that’s what I did.
The next show was a display of the ancient martial art of Kalaripayattu,
said to have its origins in 9th Century Kerala. Yet another skill
that takes years of training to master, and held the audience enthralled.
After the show, I waited back to speak to the performers and express my appreciation of their performance and their efforts towards keeping alive these age old art forms. They, in turn, spoke of the challenges they face and the need to cultivate an interest in Indian arts.
Back in my room, I happily narrated the events of the day to Mr. Antony, who seemed genuinely pleased to hear that I had enjoyed myself and made the most of my day. Bidding him goodnight, I went back to my room, and, after a much needed bath, went to bed. It was just a little after 8pm, but I fell asleep as soon as my head touched my pillow.
DAY 2
I woke up to the sound of church bells at around 5am. If you’ve read any
of my earlier posts, you’ll know I’m an early riser, setting out at the crack
of dawn. So, being well-rested, I began to get ready for the day ahead. 6am
found me locking my room and heading towards the fishing nets. This turned out
to be a good decision. The only people around were the local fishermen. They
seemed quite undisturbed by my presence among them, and one even invited me
onto the Chinese fishing net to take a closer look at how it functions. This
gentleman, Mr. Reuben Antony, dressed in a teal shirt and crisp, white mundu, explained to me some features of
the local fishing activity and showed me some of their catch. He then invited
me to check-out the fish
auction, a noisy, flurry of activity that takes place every
morning, around 7am, in a tiny alley, right by the fishing nets.
The fishermen pour out their catch onto sheets placed on the ground. Someone begins the auction and in no time at all, a buyer would pick up the entire lot and head off, and a new heap of fish would replace those sold. I have never seen so many people and so much fish together in one place! I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but I could feel the energy and activity packed into that tiny space.
After close to an hour watching the auction, I walked along, looking at
the vendors setting up their display of fish, ready for the day’s sale. Fish
like mullet, red snapper, and crab, different variety of prawns, squid, seer
fish, pearl spot and milk fish are sold at these markets daily in Fort Kochi.
It’s really quite a sight! Most fish are purchased by the many restaurants and
eateries scattered around Fort Kochi, while some are picked up for domestic
consumption. Once can also choose the fish of their choice and have it cooked
for them right there, in the fish market.
For breakfast, I joined the fishermen at the tea-stall that stood at the
end of the row of fish-shops. Sudhir, at the tea-stall, made me a delicious cup
of chai while I looked at the
breakfast snacks on display. There were potato dumplings and batter-fried
bananas, some fried globules of rice flour and what looked like rice patties. I
chose the latter (Sudhir said they were called Patras). They were neither sweet nor savory, but they were tasty,
so I ordered two more.
I followed this up with a nice, peaceful, long walk along the promenade,
which was deserted save for a few morning walkers, and a cyclist or two.
Back at the homestay, I was met by Mr. Antony who invited me to his home
upstairs, to join him and his wife for a traditional breakfast of puttu and banana. I was fairly full by then,
but my hosts insisted I finish as much as I could since I had a long day of
adventure ahead of me. They showed me the right way to eat puttu and also shared with me a little about their family home and
their children.
Walking past the Basilica, I took the inner roads (via Pullupallam Road)
leading towards Mattancherry, a locality around 2kms from Fort Kochi. This was
once a bustling centre of the spice trade. The long walk took me through many
bustling markets, past schools, temples, churches and shops. Walking along
Palace Road, I headed directly to the Dutch Palace, also known as the Mattancherry
Palace.
Built circa 1545 C.E by the Portuguese as a gift for King Veera Kerala
Verma, this palace is a wonderful blend of the colonial and the Kerala style of
architecture. It is the home of the deity of the Royal family and is famous its
lovely, long halls and murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other
mythological stories. There are life-size portraits of the kings of Cochin and
a small collection of swords and palquins.
The locals speak of tunnels leading form Fort Kochi to the Dutch Palace. Built by the colonizers, unknown to the Royal family, these tunnels were said to have been used to spy on the Royals and to gain political and military advantage.
From one of the windows of the Dutch Palace, you can see a clock tower,
beyond which lies Jew
Town, my next stop. To get to Jew Town, I cut across the
Palace courtyard and, in about 3 minutes, found myself standing below the
signboard that welcomes all visitors to Jew Town, once the stronghold of the
earliest group of Jews in India. Today, however, this place has been taken over
by shops selling handloom and artefacts not very different from those sold all
across India.
The main attraction for tourists, here, is the Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1568 A.D for the then flourishing
community in Kochi. This Synagogue was built adjacent to the Dutch Palace Here’s
a titbit I gathered from some of the locals – In the early years, when the Jews
were wealthy traders, the men would be out for days, seeing to business
matters. Knowing that the women and children were alone at home, the locals of
other communities would attack and raid their homes, looting whatever wealth
they could find. The Jews approached the King for protection, in response to
which they were accommodated in a town created for them on land adjoining the
Palace. It’s a one way-street so it was easier to keep an eye-out for looters and
easier to defend.
Standing beside the Synagogue, is a three storey clock tower (the same
one you see from the Dutch Palace), constructed in 1760. The clock face seen
from the Palace has Malayalam numerals, the one facing the Synagogue has the Hebrew
numerals, and the third, Roman. The fourth side is blank.
The next hour was spent sitting at the Mocha Art Café, a beautiful space a few steps away from the Synagogue. The inner recesses of the Café have cozy dining spaces, but it was the outer hall that was most appealing to me. With its wooden ceiling and floors and artwork displayed all around. The best part were the large window seats that offered a great view of the street below. It was here that I sat and enjoyed their signature Special Mocha Cold Coffee.
Retracing my steps back towards Palace Road, I walked towards the Sri Krishna Café,
an eatery that serves vegetarian food and exudes immense old-world charm. I
ordered the Veg-thali that was a lot
more than I expected. The waiter first set a plate of papad in front of me, followed by a large thali. Then came all
these little bowls filled with an assortment of curries, veggies, yogurt & payasam. He then arrived with this huge
basket from which he began scooping out boiled rice onto my plate. I didn’t realize
I was expected to tell him to stop, so he kept going & by the time I got
wise, I had a generous heap of rice on my plate.
Well, I finished it all, but was sure to refuse when the boy returned with an offer of second helpings.
Feeling awfully full, I walked back towards Jew Town, planning to visit the Police Museum, the first of its kind in the country. The museum exhibits police uniforms and weapons arranged in chronological order, providing an insight into the evolution of the Kerala Police. There is also a separate section providing information about the types of injuries inflicted by various weapons, and how the Police deals with various threats. I didn’t want to enter this room because the display boards also had actual photographs that were quite horrific and very, very gruesome.
Making my way back to Fort Kochi, I took the old Bazaar Road that runs parallel to the sea. It’s a long walk, but I found it quite interesting. There’s quite a lot to see here – wholesale shops, retail stores, warehouses, some nice cafés, trucks and a lot of goats. Along the way, I dropped in at the Perfume Museum where you can also buy essential oils of your choice, but the prices are rather steep.
Cutting across a little bridge that reminded me of Venice, I kept walking along until I reached the familiar sight of the Jetty. Still in no mood to return to my room, I kept walking along River Road, looking at the street vendors and the fishermen at work. I walked along the promenade right up to the Fort Kochi Beach and the Dutch Cemetery, a little over a km away. It was a lovely walk, taking me past the Nehru Park, the Bastion Bungalow and some lovely cafés. I also stopped frequently to watch the small fishing boats and large container ships go by.
Then, taking a different route, I walked by the Parade Ground and visited the St. Francis CSI Church. Built originally in 1503, it is one of the oldest European churches in India. In 1524, when Vasco da Gama died in Fort Kochi, he was buried in this church for fourteen years, before his remains were transferred to Lisbon.
All the walking had made me really hungry, so I walked on to Kafe d Kochi, another little
street-side eatery right beside the one I’d visited the last afternoon. I
ordered a pan-fried fish and a serving of lemon rice (the latter recommended by
the chef). At a nearby table sat another tourist, enjoying a large platter of
sea-food, some fried fish and boiled rice. At his feet sat a cat, staring up
expectantly, hoping to be fed.
My meal arrived. The fish was beautifully coated with spicy masala and
fried to perfection. The rice was flaky, fragrant and the aroma made my tummy
rumble. I began to tuck into my meal with gusto. The other tourist, meanwhile, having
finished his meal was quite amused to see me enjoying my meal by myself, and
smiled as he passed by. “Sometimes it has to be just you and the fish,” he
said, and waved goodbye.
The cat, having nothing better to do decided to move on, too. Strangely,
every time she passed me, she narrowed her eyes and bared her teeth. I could
actually feel the animosity radiating off her, but I wasn’t sure why. Then came
the active imagination that made me wonder, “Could she see something (or
someone) I couldn’t? Had ‘someone’ followed me from the Dutch Cemetery, or
worse, from those ghastly posters at the Police Museum?!!”
Oh, help!
That night, I slept with my night light on and a rosary tucked under my pillow.
DAY 3
Early the next morning, seeing as nothing opens until after 8am, I made
my way to the Santa Cruz Basilica and stepped in for a few minutes. Not because
I was still haunted by the scary kitty, but because there was someone singing
inside and her voice was extremely melodious and soulful. At that early hour,
surrounded by the beauty of Fort Kochi, the voice was pure bliss. Happy and at
peace with myself, I walked back down Bastian Street, cut across to Rose Street
and sat myself at a plastic table near Shanu’s wayside stall. Ordered super soft appams and creamy chana curry. It was so delicious that I ordered seconds and then
followed it up with a steaming cup of filter coffee.
A policeman had seated himself across from me, nursing his own cup of coffee. We couldn’t really have much of a conversation as I spoke no Malayalam and he spoke just that. Still, we tried to converse as best as we could, mostly in monosyllables.
Satisfactorily stuffed, I was ready for a new day. To begin, I visited the recently opened Freedom Jail, beside the Fort Kochi Police Station. Consisting of a little courtyard and seven individual cells, this prison has housed some noted personalities. My breakfast companion policeman met me at the gate and volunteered to show me around the little prison, attempting to provide information where needed.
Then began another nice, long walk towards the Indian Naval Maritime Museum.
Having time to spare and wanting to explore, I took the inner roads, cutting
across a beautiful residential area with pretty white cottages, little grocery
shops and many beautiful old houses. I passed some chapels and narrow lanes
lined on either side by houses with flowering windows and courtyards. I also so
a couple of peacocks on their morning walk.
The Museum, situated at the INS Dronacharya, has to be on your to-visit
list. It’s such an interesting place to visit, with two large indoor exhibits
and many outdoor exhibits dotted all around the well-sculpted garden.
The first gallery displays the history of ships in India and presents
some lovely reliefs and dioramas depicting scenes from the maritime history of
Fort Kochi.
The second gallery provides information about the Indian Navy by way of the many uniforms, badges and medals on display. It also highlights the role played by the Navy in major events of Indian history. The audio-visual room plays a movie about Navy’s contribution in the Indo-Pak war and encourages people to join the Navy. It’s so inspiring, if I wasn’t 20 years past their recruitment age-limit, I’d have signed up immediately!
The outdoor exhibits showcase large models of Naval ships, weapons and a
large Naval helicopter. There’s also a fountain you can sit beside.
The entire exhibit was so interesting and well-arranged that I didn’t even realize I’d spent over 2 hours in the Museum. As I was about to exit, the lady at the ticket-counter suggested I also visit a new gallery that was still under construction, but largely ready. Following her directions, I went towards the exhibit, titles Blue Waters Ahoy. It was much larger than I’d expected and provided pictorial information of the many Naval vessels from its inception to its newest baby, the indigenously made INS Vikrant.
Thanking the lady for pointing me towards the new gallery, I left the
Maritime Museum, walked along K.J Herschel Road, towards the Indo Portuguese Museum,
located within the premises of Bishop’s House. This Museum has a small, but
nice collection of mostly religious artefacts and architectural sketches that
highlight the Portuguese influence in Kochi. The young man at the ticket
counter doubles up as guide sometimes. He points out a few important pieces on
display and is, himself, brimming with tales of what, according to him, is the
true history of Kochi. Some of what he said was interesting, a lot of it was
confusing, but he gets full marks for enthusiasm.
He informed me that the actual Fort for which Fort Kochi gets its name,
is now submerged under the sea. He said that excavations were underway in some
places, and even showed me some sections of the fort that were visible on the
lower level of the Museum. Very interesting, I must admit!
He also regaled me with details of the foreign occupants of Kochi and their influence on its culture and history, adding interesting facts about the fort’s architectural history as well.
For lunch, I decided to treat myself to a somewhat fancy meal at Oceanos Restaurant, a charming place with cool and cheerful interiors. While I waited for my order of Shrimp in Cream Sauce and Dill, I struck up a conversation with Deepu Kumar. Originally hailing from the Eastern State of Odisha, he had been employed at Oceanos for a while now and lived in the accommodation provided by his employers. He told me of his family back in Odisha and the heavy rains they have to brave each year. He, like the other employees in the restaurant, was cheerful and very courteous. The meal was delicious and the service, good.
Post lunch, walking down Napier Street, I arrived at the Parade Ground and stopped a while to buy a fridge magnet outside the St. Francis CSI Church. Considering it was the week before Onam, I purchased an Onam Sadya magnet.
My next stop was Bastion
Bungalow, a bungalow built in 1667 by the Dutch, in a part of
what was the original Portuguese fort. Today the bungalow houses a lovely
little museum showcasing the history of Kochi, its people and its flora &
fauna. It’s a wonderfully curated display and has much by way of information
through maps, sketches, dioramas and photographs. There is also a Dutch kitchen
at the back, leading to a courtyard providing views of the open sea and fishing
activity beyond. There are also a couple of old cannons on display here.
Mildly hungry again, I took myself to the delightfully quaint Teapot Café,
on Peter Celli Street. Situated inside a 300 year old house, this charming
place is just darling! The walls are an egg-yolk yellow, with paint peeling in
patches at various places. All around are teapots in every shape and size
imaginable. The tables are old tea-crates and there are some lovely, old tea
tins on shelves and vintage advertisements for tea hanging on the walls. It’s
like stepping into another world entirely, one miles away from the world you’ve
known.
Ordering a Cold Coffee and Blueberry Cheesecake, I spent over an hour here, just soaking in the charm and enjoying the solitude that my solo trip had provided me.
Finally, after clicking a few pictures, I walked on to explore the Santa Cruz Basilica,
one of nine Basilicas in Kochi. Built originally by the Portuguese in 1558, the
new structure we see was commissioned by 1887, the original having been
destroyed in conflict with the British.
Luckily for me, the Basilica was deserted, save for a Mr. Dennis, who
volunteered as caretaker for a few hours each evening. He and I had a nice long
conversation about the Basilica and, in course of our discussion, I learned of
his family and his days as a seaman posted at the docks in Mumbai. It was a
pleasure speaking to him and I had enjoyed his company.
Having had a long day, I then headed back to my room to pack. This was,
after all, my last evening in Fort Kochi.
Mr. Antony, my host, met me just as I was about to unlock the door and suggested I spend a few hours on the promenade, watching the sunset. Dropping my key back into my bag, I turned on the spot and made to leave, but was stopped by his wife, who appeared bearing a plate of freshly prepared jackfruit fritters. I licked the platter clean, thanked her and trotted off to catch the sunset.
This evening, there were a few more tourists at the beach below Bastion Bungalow. There were also some vendors selling hats, toys and ice-cream on the promenade. I found myself a nice spot and sat watching the many boats and ships go by. I’m glad I hadn’t missed the sunset. It was spectacular, tossing a golden glow over the sparkling waters and the fishing nets nearby. A perfect end to a perfect holiday!
DAY 4
My last morning in Fort Kochi. This morning, I stayed in my room a
little longer than usual, packing my one bag and ensuring I left nothing
behind.
For breakfast, I took myself the Qissa Café behind the Police Station, and enjoyed a nice, leisurely breakfast of Farmer’s Omelet and a pot of hot Ginger-lemon.
Back at the homestay, I thanked my hosts for their warm hospitality and, following his suggestion, I took an Uber to the Kottakal Ayur Vaidya Sala at Ernakulum. Mr. Antony was sure they’d be able to help me with my frequent migraines (which, I must add, never surface when I’m on vacation ….eye roll!)
The consultation was brief, I filled in my prescription and took another Uber to, what turned out to be the not-so-near Lulu Mall.
After the peace and quiet of Fort Kochi, being stuck in traffic for over
an hour was an absolutely horror, even though it was interesting driving around
in a city different from one’s own.
Lulu Mall was a lot like every other mall I’d ever visited, except for the extensive Onam decorations at every corner. There were flowers, food stalls and people dressed in the traditional mundu and pretty kasavu sarees.
I headed directly to the food court and ordered myself a Mutton Biryani from the Dindigul Thalappakatti Biryani counter. The biryani was as good as it always is across all their outlets, so I gave my undivided attention to my plate and its contents before exploring the mall.
That done, I spent the next few hours nursing a coffee (or two) at Starbucks, working on my sketchbook and reflecting on my first ever solo vacation.
Then followed a ride to the Cochin International Airport, the world’s first fully solar powered airport. Waiting at the boarding gate, with my sketchbook in hand, I cast a glance at my fellow passengers. There was lady with a fussy baby and a little daughter who attempted to amuse her sibling with a seemingly unending game of peek-a-boo (I fervently hoped their seats weren’t anywhere close to mine). Beside me was a young woman who spent the entire time staring at herself on her phone camera, trying out every filter there was to try. A couple of gents were carrying on a loud conversation while most others were grabbing their 40 winks.
Following their example, I slept through the entire flight back to Mumbai.
In retrospect, this little experiment of mine had turned out to be everything I’d hoped for, and more. Traveling with friends and family does have its moments, but nothing beats going solo. It was a life-changing experience and a liberating one in ways I cannot express in words. Some things can only be felt deeply and remain with you for a lifetime.
What I really liked about this visit to Fort Kochi was that I’d visited at a time when it wasn’t peak season, so the place was almost devoid of tourists. At almost every museum, café and art gallery, I was blessed with the opportunity to explore and enjoy unhindered. It was just me walking through the many hallways seeped in history and art. Just me nursing a drink in cafés free of loud, raucous tourists. And as I was the master of my own time, I was in no hurry to speed through the day. I thoroughly enjoyed myself!
I had overcome all apprehension and travelled solo. And I had found, as
always, that people like in India are friendly, warm and very happy to share
their culture, history and their stories with one willing to listen. As always,
I was humbled by the simplicity and generosity of people, be it my hosts, the rickshaw
drivers who never failed to wish me a good day even after I’d declined their
ride, or even the smiling waiters and servers at the many cafés and restaurants
I enjoyed a meal in.
By the end of my stay, Kochi felt almost like home, where the local
fisherman, chaiwala and street vendor
hollered out a greeting in comfortable familiarity when I passed them on the
street.
Would I go solo again? Most definitely
yes! A thousand times yes!
Pics by Misha
@misha.kamath
