Savouring a Slice of the South.

 SAVOURING A SLICE OF THE SOUTH (Solo vacation)

Thiruvananthapuram – Kovalam – Kanyakumari – Kollam - Thiruvananthapuram

As if road traffic wasn’t bad enough in Mumbai, this solo-trip began with terrible air traffic congestion as well! The longest delay ever! First the flight was pushed ahead by an hour. Next, there was a gate change and a further delay of forty minutes, After finally boarding, we spent over two hours strapped into a narrow flight seat with nothing to do but wait for the flight to take off. In situations like these, airline authorities should consider being generous with alcohol. At least us people would have something to be jolly about. 

Finally, permission to take off was received, but the long line of planes before us meant taxiing along at snail's pace with multiple stops along the seemingly endless runway. I couldn't help thinking it was very much like the Stations of the Cross......we were condemned, we carried our cross, we fell all three times (at least, our hopes of taking off did), but just as we were about to be nailed to the tree, salvation was granted and we were off. Finally! Was surprised the fellow passengers didn't cheer and clap in celebration. 

No sooner had the lights of the city disappeared far below, meals were served. Flavourful chicken curry with rice & veggies, a generously buttered dinner roll & a sinfully dark & gooey chocolate brownie. All this disappeared faster than the city lights. I didn't even pause between bites!

Tried to find some consolation in the fact that the bread was brown & the brownie had a dusting of oats on the crust. But this stuffing my face with carbs at the very start of my trip didn't bode well for the days to come. 

I'm headed to THIRUVANANTAPURAM, the capital city of Kerala, God's Own Country, where rice and rice preparations are served at almost every meal. Good luck to me! 

With this bustling city as base, I plan to explore Kollam, Kovalam and stand at India's southernmost point, Kanyakumari. 

A little after 2am, we landed smoothly at Thiruvananthapuram Airport. An easy booking of a prepaid cab and I was heading towards my accommodation...or so I thought. The driver & I couldn't understand each other as he spoke Malayalam & I knew nothing of it. I suppose he asked me for the address at one point while I just blinked back at him, shrugged and read out the address I was given. That being our situation, I ended up somewhere along Forest Lane C instead of Forest Lane E. He mumbled something (which, judging by his tone, was not something I wanted translated.) He drove around a while looking for Lane E and, in a short while, I found myself standing outside Maanas' Homestay. My host was kind enough to stay up to let me into my room - a cozy place that reminded me very much of being in Goa. True to its description, this room, set in a 100yr old house, exudes a charm and warmth that at once put me at ease. I loved everything about it - the tiled roof, the simple yet comfortable furnishings and the fragrance of home (memories are triggered most by smell). And a special mention of the rustic and cute aluminum bathing bucket. Loved it! Freshened-up, climbed into bed & was off to la-la land in no time.

DAY 1: 

Spent a while this morning, sitting in the little verdant courtyard, taking in the stillness and peace of a new morning in a new place. Took a short walk, headed towards the Museum Park, stopping only for breakfast at a busy but friendly local restaurant where I ordered some Parotta and Chana bhaji. Ended the meal with a rather sweet & milky coffee.

As we walk along, let me tell you that the name Thiruvananthapuram translates to 'the city of Lord Anantha', making reference to the deity of Sri Padmanabhaswami Temple. I planned to pay a visit, but not just yet. 

Chitra Art Gallery & Raja Ravi Varma Gallery. (Phone photography permitted. Videos not allowed)  Housing the original works of Raja Ravi Varma, this one storied building is a true delight. It's all white, with terracotta flooring & roof, and large windows of coloured glass. In the pretty courtyard below, is a small fountain that flows over a glass projecting Shakuntala, one of the popular painting of this renowned artist. 

 

Inside the cool gallery, I recognised some of the paintings, having seen their images on calendars and online. But seeing the originals is something else. They are luminous and so alive. The staff, dressed in the traditional Kasavu sarees of Kerala, are very polite and quick to offer assistance. Before exiting the first gallery, I was prodded to take a look at a portrait with 3D eyes that follow you around the room. On observation, I found that those rather stern, light eyes really did stay on me as I moved around the painting. 

Trivandrum Zoological Park. Just beside the Art Gallery, one of India's oldest zoos (estd’ 1857), is well laid out and quite expansive. It also appears to be where most of the visitors flock. There are a variety of flora & fauna here, and while I do appreciate the maintenance & conservation efforts of the Zoological department here, I did feel sorry for the birds. I thought their enclosures to be rather small and too open to the eyes of visitors. I mean, everyone needs a little hidey-hole at times, don't they? Especially the nocturnal birds. Like this very cute Owl with super soulful eyes. 

Napier Museum is set inside a very beautiful, old building (estd 1855. new building 1880), of which, according to me, the ceiling was most attractive. Designed by Robert Chisholm, this Indo-Saracenic structure is really worth a visit. The approach path to the museum is through a pretty garden. In the courtyard there's a fountain adorned with cranes. The exterior of the building is impressive and it's a good idea to walk around it, in order to get a good look at the various elements of its architectural style. The museum does not house an extensive collection, but what is there is worth a look. There were some very beautiful carvings that caught my attention & also some traditional Japanese puppets. Then there are statues in stone & bronze, a coin collection & also some religious iconography. 

The museum gardens are very inviting and many visitors were seated on benches and on the lawns. My foot (the one that's developed a painful spur) was acting up and demanding attention all morning. Needing very much to give it a rest, I decided to find a shaded spot and take a pause.

Can't remember when I last did this. I don't think I ever did, but today I took a nap on the grass, in a public park, in a city not my own. I just kicked off my shoes, lay back on the grass, placed my hat over my face and blocked out the world around. Then, after a brief nap, I lay looking at the sky and a lone dragonfly flying around in circles. When I sat up, I took in the sights of the museum buildings, the families and visitors, kids running around....and it struck me that, for the first time, I was actually doing absolutely nothing. I wasn't rushed. I had no chaotic thoughts running through my head. I had no deadlines to meet. I had no agenda for the day. It just struck me that I was actually free to do nothing. I could just be. In that moment. I smiled, lay back down on the cool, somewhat damp grass, and shut my eyes for a while.

Aquarium. A brief nap later, I sat up, bound my foot carefully, and headed next towards the small, but well managed Aquarium. After the heat of the afternoon sun, the darkened interiors were pleasantly cool and refreshing. I hobbled around looking at some interesting and very colourful fish, before moving on to the Museum of Natural History, next door. 

Museum of Natural History, another beautifully maintained place that deserves a visit. The foyer is like a wooden palace and the various exhibits are neatly labelled and in good condition. I began with the Skeletal Exhibits and then followed the arrows, leafing to other exhibits. What's noteworthy about this museum is the superb frescoes done on the walls as you head to the first storey. Care has been taken to save electricity by installing lights that work on sensors detecting movement in front of the exhibit. 

There's also that chair that slides up the stairs for those who need it. I was most tempted to use it as, by this time, I was mostly hopping around on one foot. 

I guess it was time to call it a day. One last gallery beside the entrance caught my attention, but I wasn't able to do it justice as my foot had had enough! Dragged it along on the slowest walk ever, heading towards my accommodation. Once there, I had a much needed bath, soaked my feet in cold water, applied some soothing balm & went to bed.

Woke up well after sunset, to the distant sound of rain & thunder. As that ebbed, another sound took over. That of fireworks in the distance. It was Diwali. You don't see as many lights here, but you can hear the fireworks all around. That's all I hear - the fireworks & sound of the gentle rain on the roof. 

DAY 2:

Dressed in a saree, I made my way towards the Padmanabhaswami Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu.  The temple is built in an intricate fusion of the Kerala style and the Dravidian style of architecture, featuring high walls, and a 16th-century gopura. Padmanabhaswamy is the tutelary deity of the Travancore royal family and the titular Maharaja of Travancore is the current trustee of the temple.

The temple is built in an intricate fusion of the Kerala style and the Dravidian style of architecture, featuring high walls, and a 16th-century gopura. Legend tells of Sage Vilvamangalathu Swamiyar who prayed to Vishnu for his darshan or "auspicious sight". The deity is believed to have come in the guise of a little boy who was mischievous. The boy defiled the idol which was kept for puja. The sage became enraged at this and chased away the boy who disappeared before him. Realising the boy was no ordinary mortal, the sage wept for forgiveness and asked for another darshan as a sign. He heard a voice say "If you want to see me come to the Anathavana (the unending forest or Ananthakadu). The sage reached Ananthankadu searching for the boy. There he saw the boy merging into an iluppa tree that fell down and became Anantha Sayana Moorti (Vishnu reclining on the celestial snake Anantha) of an extraordinarily large size, making him some eight miles in length. When the sage requested the deity to shrink to a smaller proportion, the deity shrank to the form of the idol that is seen at present in the Temple. But even then many iluppa trees obstructed a complete vision of the deity. The sage saw the deity in three parts – thirumukham, thiruvudal and thrippadam. That's exactly now one views the deity at Padmanabha Swami today. 

In recent years, a hoard of wealth in the form of gold thrones, precious jewels, gold coins, gold statues, jewelry etc. was found in the vaults of the temple. A fortune so unimaginably large that this temple was immediately raised to the status of the richest temple of the world. 

The temple complex, from the street looks serene, but the approach to the temple can be quite chaotic once the devotees begin to flock to its gates. 

This temple is really old and the architecture, beautiful. Like almost all traditional architecture here, most of the structure is made of intricately carved wood, yet, the building is beautiful in its simplicity. White washed walls & the rustic, brown wood. Lovely! 

Do take a look at the clock just a little way inside the entrance, with your back to the Padmateertha pond. This clock, or Methan Mani has a unique feature. On the face of the clock you see a bearded man with a ram on either side of his face. Corresponding to every hour, he opens his mouth and then is forced to close it when the two rams hit his cheeks. This happens every time the clock chimes the hour. 

Breakfast was at a small hotel just outside the temple. Settling for a simple masala dosa and a coffee, I placed my order and sat looking at the temple across the street. The dosa, when it arrived, was bigger than I had expected, and filled with a not-very-spicy preparation of potato and beetroot. 

Spotting a Vasudeva Vilasam Ayurvedic Hospital nearby, I dropped in for a consultation. Time to give my foot the attention it's been seeking. The doctor prescribed a few meds and suggested a few sittings of an ayurvedic foot massage.

I agreed to give the massage a try and collected the meds while the therapist prepared the mixture of herbs and oils. I must admit, it was good. My foot felt relaxed and less strained. 

Next, I took an auto to the Attukal Bhagavati Temple. Being Diwali, the temple was a flurry of activity. Similar to the Padmanabha Swami Temple, a long line of devotees was snaking it's way into the inner recesses of the temple. Outside, the streets are lined with shops selling religious objects, and various offerings.

Decided to go next to the Kerala State Science & Technological Museum. Purchased tickets for the galleries, and also for a 3D show, a show at the Priyadarshini Planetarium and a virtual reality experience. 

The guard advised me to head first for the 3D Show as the show in English was about to begin. It was quite an interesting show, and had the kids all excited. It beautifully depicted the effects of global warming, human carelessness & deforestation. 

The Planetarium was next on my list with the show starting almost immediately after the 3D one. The auditorium was full and the personnel, very alert to the use of mobile phones during the show. The feature was all about our Solar System, giving insight into the composition and conditions of the various planets, their moons and the sun. 

Before exploring the galleries, I decided to get done with the Virtual Reality experience. This was quite cute. You're taken into a large room and given a VR device to strap over your eyes. Then, the show begins and you learn a little more about the planets in our solar system as you navigate your spacecraft into space. 

Then, after exploring the other galleries, I decided to take a walk in the garden. The guard signalled me over and inquired if I had finished with the shows. He smiled widely when I told him I had as, according to him, he was aware of me rushing in late. Very observant of him, I must say. And very sweet. 

For lunch, I took myself to Mother's Veg Plaza, a very popular and extremely busy restaurant that proudly displays all the awards it has won over the years. Taking a coupon for their famous, year-round Sadya, I stood waiting to be shown to my seat while the Manager directed previously waiting groups to tables that were being vacated. Finally, I found myself seated at a table with two young girls sharing a biryani & an elderly gentleman who, like me, had ordered a sadya. 

The meal is served on a banana leaf and one can order second helpings if one so wishes. From the corner of my eye, I watched the gentleman beside me, and mirrored his actions to clear my leaf. You see, there's a certain system to be followed if you wish to enjoy a sadya the way it should and this man looked like someone who knew what he was doing.

Once the leaf was cleared of food, payasam was ladled out on the same leaf. The waiter told me that the banana had to be smashed into the payasam and eaten. That done, I finished the meal with crushed papad (mimicking the gentleman, again), folded over my leaf and stepped out of the restaurant, satisfied. It was a good meal, but strangely not heavy at all. 

Not wanting to head to the room just yet, I decided to go looking for the Indian Coffee House, an establishment my husband remembered visiting as a child. What is interesting about this place is its delightful design, brain child of architect Laurie Baker, renowned for his initiatives in cost-effective energy-efficient architecture and designs that maximized space, ventilation and light and maintained an uncluttered yet striking aesthetic sensibility. This circular red brick tower has a spiral concrete pathway that climbs its way up the tower with fixed concrete tables and benches on the right the waiters climb the walkways and take the orders, serving both veg & non-veg fare at very affordable rates. 

Spent some time that evening in the gardens of the Napier Museum before heading to my room. 

DAY 3:

Today I leave myself to mercy of the sun and the sea as I head towards the beach town of KOVALAM. Waking up early, as always, I decided to slowly walk to the East Fort Bus stand, right across the Padmanabhaswami Temple. Enjoyed the long but pleasant walk, watching the city slowly waking up. Realised that Mother's Veg Plaza is just at the end of my street and, the temple is just a 30 minute walk away. 

Stopped for breakfast at Kitchen Thalassery, a nice little place right across the street from the post office. Ordered some appam, chicken curry, veg stew and a lemon tea & enjoyed my meal, watching the morning traffic go by. 

While most of the city was still rubbing the sand out of its eyes, the bus station was bustling with activity. Mostly school/college going students heading out. 

After asking for directions at the Police help desk, I boarded the bus for Kovalam Junction and began a 30 minute journey that is not only the cheapest option, but it’s also comfortable and smooth. From Kovalam Jn, one can board another bus or take another auto to the beach. Ignoring the protests of my poor foot, I chose to walk. There are well paved sidewalks and the almost 2km walk is a very pleasant one. At one point a majestic peacock decided to cross the street, struggling his stuff and totally owning it. I was thrilled to see him, but, judging by the reactions of people around, peacocks strutting around are a common occurrence. 

Kovalam Beach itself is beautiful, with clean, golden sand and clear, aquamarine waters. I was lucky to find the beach not very crowded except for a few families frolicking in the choppy sea. I hired myself a large recliner under the shade of a beach umbrella and, leaving my bag there, went to play in the water. Noticed lots of little fish & even jellyfish washed up on the shore. A short distance away, fishermen where untangling & laying down their nets on the sand beside their boats. After some time spent relaxing and watching the waves, I decided to walk around and see what was there to see. The little cove ended with a blue & white light house. Beyond that lay another beautiful stretch of beach, this one fairly populated by foreign tourists, some swimming, others wading through the water or sunning themselves on recliners, while still others were window shopping at the many shops that lined the beach. I'm not much into shopping, but I did give in to the temptation of buying two scarves that reminded me of the ocean. 

In the distance, not very far, really, stands Vizhinjam Lighthouse. The views from atop this famous lighthouse are spectacular. Unfortunately, it was not accessible to visitors that morning. Even if it was, I doubt I'd be able to make it all the way up with my foot being the way it was. I settled for walking along the beach & exploring the shops, before stopping for an early lunch at the Crow's Nest Restaurant. It was still a little early for lunch, and, with its many colourful mosaic tables, the Crow's Nest was quite unoccupied save for a gentleman reading at one of the tables. Settling down at a table with a good view of the sea, placed my order and sat back to enjoy a leisurely & long lunch of calamari masala, parotha (too oily, this), butter-garlic fish & a watermelon mojito. That disposed of, I sat a while longer nursing a glass of hot ginger-lemon tea. 

All-in-all, I quite liked the vibe at Kovalam beach...the waters, the goings-on, the people and the peace. It is, by far, the cleanest beach I've come across in India. 

By late afternoon, I made my way back towards the entrance of the Leela Hotel from where, I boarded a local bus back to East Fort Bus stand. Once again, a pocket-friendly, comfortable and very pleasant journey.

DAY 4

I'm off to the southernmost tip of India, KANYAKUMARI, jumping across the border into Tamil Nadu. Took an auto to TVC Station early in the morning to await the arrival of the Pune-Kanyakumari Express.  

Since it was the last leg of the train's route, the compartment was fairly empty and I could travel with ease and relative quiet. The landscape outside is an unending vista of lush green trees, mostly coconut and banana. This scene is interrupted every once in a while by colourful little towns with clusters of terracotta tiles peeping between the green. 

Alternatively known as Cape Comorin, Kanyakumari is named for the presiding deity of the area, Goddess Kumari Amman. The temple dedicated to her is worth a visit.

Cape Station is just a few minutes' walk from the bustling little centre of the fishing town of Kanyakumari. Visitors can find many options for comfortable accommodation & meals here. I had booked a room at the Hotel Ocean Heritage, a hop, skip & jump away from the jetty. The room allotted was bright, clean & comfortable, although the switches were rather mixed up. My room had a nice view of the street and the ocean, but it kept out the sounds and offered a very pleasant stay. The staff is very courteous and quick to offer assistance. 

For lunch, I visited the Sea View Restaurant that offered absolutely no view of the sea at all. While the Veg thali I ordered was delicious, the portions served for starters makes it a little overpriced. 

That done, I headed towards the jetty and, for ₹75, booked myself a return ticket aboard the ferry to Vivekananda Rock Memorial. 

Once at the rock, there's a ₹30 ticket for entry. Footwear is to be kept at the counter, but given the number of visitors, the terribly shoddy manner of piling shoes & the terribly overpowering stench of feet, I wrapped my sandals in a spare bag & dropped them into my backpack. 

From the Vivekananda Rock, one gets a beautiful, panoramic view of the town. It's also worth standing by the railing to watch the crashing waves and the fishing boats go by. But that’s not only why people come here. The Memorial marks the spot where Swami Vivekananda attained enlightenment after meditating for three days and nights. There is also a Dhayana Mandapam (Meditation Hall) where devotees can spend time in meditation and prayer, if they so wish. 

Nearby, on a neighbouring rock, stands the 133ft tall stone sculpture of the Tamil poet Thiruvallavur. Commonly known as Vallavur Statue, it is said to be located at the spot where the Indian Ocean meets the Bay of Bengal.

Making my way through the market, I stopped a moment at the Church of St. Roche, a pretty church that, from a distance, with its white spires and green glass, I thought to be very attractive. 

Moving on, I continued through the market, towards the Bhagavati Amman Temple, dedicated to the Goddess Kumari Amman, said to be the Goddess of virginity and penance. Devotees are seen flocking to this temple all day, offering red sarees and ghee wick lamps. While there is much to see inside the temple, there is much said about the glitter of the deity's diamond nose ring. It is said that the diamond glitters so bright that sailors from afar often mistook it for a beacon of a lighthouse, using its glint to guide their boats safely to shore. 

I headed next towards Triveni Sangam - the confluence of the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. This point, just beyond the Bhagavati Amman Temple, is excellent for catching the sunset, is the very last tip of India and almost nobody leaves without taking a dip in the choppy waters. This holds much significance for pilgrims and devotees as it is believed that the goddess herself lived and bathed in these waters. Moreover, the confluence of the oceans also marks the convergence of 11 important Tirthas. It's crowded with pilgrims, tourists, ochre clad fortune tellers and vendors selling beaded necklaces. 

Later that evening, dinner was a simple vegetable & roti at the nearby Mahadev Restaurant, followed by a walk to the beach & back. 

DAY 5:

Early morning I meet my way towards the pier to catch the sunrise which is very famous in Kanyakumari. A small gathering of like-minded tourists were already scattered along the way, cameras ready to catch the rising sun.  However it was a fairy cloudy morning and the sun was mostly hidden, but the experience was very relaxing, to be sitting there surrounded by the ocean with nothing but the sound of the waves cutting through the silence. 

A word of advice, if you wish to see the sunrise over the vast, seemingly unending ocean, then the pier is where you need to be. However, if you want to catch it rising behind the Vivekananda Memorial, you need to be standing at Triveni Sangam.

Enjoying the morning hour, I decided to walk through the fishing village, making my way towards the nearby Shrine of Our Lady of Ransom, a very beautiful white church with spires that really stand out midst all the colourful little houses around. The interior is cool and dappled with sunlight filtering through the pastel stained glass windows. 

It is believed that the original Our Lady of Delights Grotto that stood there at the time of St. Francis Xavier, later became the church of Our Lady of Ransom, the Patron of the congregation in Spain. The foundation for the new church was laid out by Fr. John Consolvez in May 1900. The architect modelled the church in the style of Gothic architecture, paying attention to many little details. The length of the new church is 153 feet & breadth, 53 feet; the height of the main tower is also 153 feet. Together, these dimensions depict the Holy Rosary, the numbers 153 and 53 representing the prayers said, as enumerated by the beads of the rosary. There are twelve towers in the church which represent the twelve disciples of Jesus. I found this bit of knowledge very interesting indeed.

Later that morning, I took a walk towards the Kanyakumari Lighthouse. Was lucky to be the only visitor at that moment and the very friendly and welcoming staff took me up the glass elevator and were also kind enough to point out to me a few important spots around Kanyakumari, as well as the exact point where the three seas meet. Being terribly afraid of heights, I tried to stay as long as I could before I was overcome with the feeling that the tower was surely toppling over. Managed to get a good view of the town before making my way back down & back to the hotel for some rest. 

I quite liked Kanyakumari, my only disappointment being that, in trying to cater to the many tourists flocking there, it stands to lose much of its originality. Almost all menu cards have an endless listing of North Indian and European/Chinese fare. For most part, I couldn’t feel much of the South at all.

To really feel the essence of the place, do what I like best. Ignore the popular haunts & explore it's fishing villages and narrow, winding side streets. Look for where the locals eat, the little food stalls and the lesser known restaurants. Like the three-table Mani Mess I had my lunch at. Here, two women cook and serve a hearty yet homely meal on a banana leaf. I feasted on heaps of boiled rice, fish curry, sambar, a mildly spiced preparation of gherkins and freshly fried fish. The meal was so delicious that I asked for some more fish & rice, this time, topped with a flavourful curd curry. 

A meal like that necessitated a walk, which is what I did before going back to the room & calling it a day. By now, the sweltering heat had subsided on account of a brief shower and the sky was still cloudy and quite overcast. 

DAY 6:

My last morning here. I went up to the terrace to watch the sunrise, then changed my mind & went a-walking towards Triveni Sangam, wanting to catch the vibe one last time. This morning, sky was slightly clear and I managed to get to few good pictures of a lovely sunrise behind the Vivekananda monument. 

After spending sometime at Triveni Sangam, I went back to the hotel for breakfast before checking out and walking 9 minutes towards Kanyakumari Station. Boarded the Cape-Pune Express and began the next segment of my journey. For the next for hours, I was engaged in conversation with a rather cheerful & chatty man from Delhi. He seemed very happy to share his travel experiences while his wife and kids took a nap. He spoke of the many temples he had visited, the many trials of travelling with kids in tow and his job as manager at an automatic roti-making machine manufacturing unit. Quite an interesting person, really. Whatever he shared, he did so with a smile on his face and a happy twinkle in his eyes. We parted ways at Trivandrum Central and my journey continued for another hour.

Arriving at KOLLAM station, I walked the short distance of 300mtrs to get to the Sree Janardhan Residency, the small yet comfortable hotel I'd chosen for my stay. The room was well lit, clean and just right for me. 

Keeping my bags safely inside, I went downstairs to their in-house Ananda Bhavan Restaurant. I'd planned to eat something light, but no sooner had I sat at the table than a banana leaf was placed in front of me and many hands started ladling a variety of food on the leaf. Apparently, there was some occasion being celebrated and a sadya was what I was to eat. So I did & it was good. Here again, the waiter, at the end of the meal, came up to my table to inform me that the banana was to be eaten with one type of payasam, while the boli (sweet, jaggery & gram flour stuffed roti) was to be eaten with the other. He was, sadly, a little too late. All I had left on my leaf by then, was the wee banana.

That evening, I tried scouting around for how to get to the Jatayu Earth Centre, which is what I had come to Kollam for, however, getting any information was difficult on account of the language barrier. Very few people speak English or Hindi and I do not speak any Malayalam. 

What I did manage to find out is that local transport is available (cheapest option), but there are 2 busses to change and then an auto. 

I was very keen to take the bus, but was quite uncertain on account of language. A part of me will always regret not being adventurous & trying for the local bus, but I finally opted for a private cab. Might be expensive for sure, but probably better on many counts. And, if I'm to be honest, I just couldn't remember the place I had to alight. 

It started with C.....so I thought Chickmangloor, but that's nowhere near here. Then I thought Chidambaram, or Chanapayasam which were both quite incorrect. It was, as I finally learnt the next day, Chadayamangalam. 

Having arranged for a cab with the help of the hotel manager, my mind at ease, I walked into the chapel of the Poor Clares of Perpetual Adoration, a cloistered, contemplative order of nuns dedicated to perpetual adoration of the Blessed Sacrament. 

There is a serenity that pervades the chapel & the convent itself and one is immediately at peace on entering its gates. After praying awhile at the grotto, I made my way down the path towards the chapel. There, surrounded by flowering plants, I saw a beautiful statue of St. Francis of Assisi, with birds and a wolf- just perfect for the Patron Saint of Ecology. Just beside the chapel, is a small and sparse parlour at the entrance of which is a bell used by visitors to call for a Sister. 

The simple chapel was empty save for four people reciting the rosary in Malayalam. Taking out my beads, I joined in as well. Behind the altar, hidden from sight, the Sisters were at prayer, singing hymns that echoed inside the chapel. I think I sat there for a long while, listening to the faceless voices, the beauty of the moment only intensified by the sound of the falling rain outside.

As I sat there, for a brief moment, the hound of Heaven growled gently, deep within. I smiled to myself, finished praying & left.

In the middle of the night, my soul almost left my body when I was awoken by a strange, fairly loud, incessant knocking from within the panel above the door. Too frightened to get out of bed, I pulled the covers tightly over & around me and eventually fell asleep reciting numerous prayers to whichever guardian angel was on duty that night. 

DAY 7: 

Began the day with some more time spent at the Adoration Chapel, followed by a simple breakfast of idiyappam, chana curry & lemon tea at Mother's Restaurant, a small eating house that's almost always packed with local diners. 

After breakfast, I reported the nocturnal knocking at reception, before beginning the hour long drive towards the Jatayu Earth Centre. As you move out of the city, the markets and clusters of houses give way to little village-like settlements and stretches of banana plantation. 

The increasing heat, even at that early hour, and the crowded KRCTC busses going by made me realise that hiring a cab had been a good decision. 

Another great decision is getting to the centre early. I was one of the first few to enter and could enjoy Jatayu in relative peace & solitude. 

The centre is well planned and efficiently managed by the staff, who are very helpful. Taking the cable car, I was soon at the top, looking up at Jatayu, the brave warrior who sacrificed his life for a selfless & honourable cause - the protection of a woman's dignity. On Jatayu Rock, you will also get to see what's believed to be Lord Rama's footprint, left behind from when, to grant salvation to brave Jatayu, he stood on one leg, offering prayer. 

The sculpture of Jatayu is without doubt beautifully executed, but as it is at the highest point of the hill, there's no possible way to get an ariel shot of the fallen bird. What one can do is walk around the sculpture and, once the museum is renovated, spend some time there as well. Also take in the panoramic views of the town spread all around the hill. 

My driver, Mr. Suresh (contact 9446661622), offered to drive me to Varkala Beach, or even Munroe Island, but the heat was getting to me by noon and, I was feeling a bit queasy. Cars do that to me sometime, you see. I requested him to drop me at the hotel. 

While the heat had dampened my energy, it had done the exact opposite to my appetite. I went into Mother's Restaurant again and ate up a feast - parothas with meat curry & some fried fish. Around me, I noticed, almost everyone else was eating biryani and multiple parcels of the same were being sent out, too. Since some wise person advised us to do in Rome as Romans do, I ordered some chicken biryani and then ended the meal with a glass of salted lemon-soda. It was a good meal and kept me happy all day. 

Back at the hotel, I was moved to a new, non-knocking room, where I bathed and sat working on my sketchbook. 

Later that same evening, I visited nearby Kollam Beach, staying only long enough to watch the sunset. Swimming in these waters is not permitted as there are strong undercurrents that can prove fatal. But like every other beach in Kerala, many locals were enjoying just being at the beach. Some stood at the waters’ edge, while others sat on the sand, chatting with friends and family. Children ran around chasing each other and digging in the sand, while others flew kites with long, colourful tails.

DAY 8:

Waking early as always, I began packing for my return to THIRUVANANTAPURAM. The train wasn't until later, but I'd planned to spend the morning doing nothing more than working on my sketchbook. When I felt hungry, I went downstairs to Ananda Bhavan and ordered myself a crispy ghee roast and a filter coffee. Both, delicious. As I ate, I watched their TV screen that advocated various reasons and benefits of being vegetarian. 

A mention now, of human kindness and hotel hospitality in action. At 10.30 am, as was hotel policy, I headed downstairs for check-out. As he prepared my invoice, the Manager, Mr. Shijin, asked me about my experience of the accommodation and about my onward journey. On hearing that my train wasn't for a couple of hours, he promptly returned my room keys and asked me to leave only just in time for my train. 

So, thanks to him, I spent a few more hours in the comfort of my room before walking the short distance to the station.

I would be reaching Trivandrum well after lunch time, so, with some time to spare before the arrival of my train, I made a quick meal of some hot fish-curry-rice at the railway canteen. 

A few minutes after I was done, the train arrived. The Vande Bharat was clean and comfortable, with charging points and a bottle holder under every seat, ample legroom & seats that could change direction to point whichever side the train was moving. Super impressed by the improvement by Indian Railways!

This time, for the end of my journey, I was staying a homestay in Vettacaud, Tilak House, known to me as Reshma’s Place, is set in a quiet residential area, just by the sea. The room is homely and comfortable, with a wide terrace and a pretty garden. 

After a brief rest, I made my way to Shanghumugham Beach to catch the sunset. Quite liked the beach, with the fragrance of surf and salt in the air. Plenty of fishing boats line the beach, and people can be seen wetting their feet in the wild, wild sea. I attempted a close up shot of the waves and ended up getting much more than my feet wet. Big oops moment for me!

A while later, walking back out towards the road, there are many food stalls and little shops selling trinkets. I particularly wanted to catch a glimpse of the 87 foot long statue of a very voluptuous mermaid, sunbathing on the shore. This statue holds the Guinness record for being the largest merperson statue in the world. 

As you exit, just across the street, you see the beautiful entrance to the Shanghumugham Devi Temple, a temple dedicated to Goddess Durga, who faces East. 

I didn't stay long as dark clouds rolled in accompanied by the sounds of thunder. Reached the room just moments before it began to pour. It rained all through that evening, and there was a power outage for a while. I sat at the window watching the rain and the lightening. All was well.

DAY 9:

After a very restful night, I woke to the sound of music on the street. The Madre de Deus Church, 900m down the street, would soon be celebrating the Feast of Christ the King, something it's been known for since the past 500 years. The entire main street and some by-lanes are gaily decorated and pilgrims flock to the shrine to offer their prayers. 

Walking towards the church, I took a little detour towards the beach. I had read somewhere that the coast here is losing almost 4mtrs stretch of beach a year on account of erosion. Standing at this section of the beach, I could see the evidence of the fact. Not only was it a very narrow, deserted strip, but it was also quite littered. With so many private residences lining the beach, I found it odd that the residents were not more active in beach cleaning and beautification.

Moving on, I continued my walk towards the Church of Madre de Deus. Service was in session, so I didn't enter immediately, but I stood by an open window & what I could see of the interiors made me go 'Oh my!'

While, on the outside the church is painted white and constructed in what appears to be a style similar to the Portuguese churches of Goa, the interiors are an entirely different matter. Recently renovated, the newly constructed church is an absolute delight. I liked best the three-dimensional church dome, designed on Michelangelo’s 'Last Judgment’ and modelled on the dome of Sistine Chapel in the Vatican. It is breathtakingly beautiful and, on a less busy day, I'd have loved to stand (or better still, lay down) beneath it and take it all in at leisure, but that was not possible today. 

The entire structure is made of fiber glass and is placed 60 feet above the base of the church. The altar is also very beautiful, done entirely in teak (I guess), backed by an eye-catching mosaic of Christ and his disciples. In addition, there are many side altars dedicated to the various saints, and also a lovely replica of the Pieta. 

Back outside, I explored some of the stalls just opening for the day & walked down to the near deserted beach where the ocean was just as wild as it had been the last couple of days. 

Breakfast was just outside the church, at a local eating house, Rozario Restaurant, where I had some appams, chilli fry & some coffee. I also watched a procession of children dressed in white go by, led by musicians beating traditional Indian drums and an altar-server bearing a crucifix. Was reminded of childhood days when I, too, used to be a part of these annual processions. In fact, everything about the place & the festivities brought back lots & lots of happy memories. 

Later in the morning, I took an auto (tuk-tuk) to the nearby Veli Tourist Park. There's a very small entry fee to this well-planned public park. Inside, I first took a ticket for a boat ride across Veli Lake, sharing the boat with a family of eight. It a very enjoyable experience, especially when our boat stopped at the far end on account of something that entangled itself in the propeller. We bobbed around while a few fellow-passengers assisted the boatman in setting us free. Soon, to cheers of joy, we were off again. 

Next, I booked myself a ride around the park aboard the Veli Express, the slowest toy-train ever. It takes passengers all around the circumference of the park, and once through. 

I spent the rest of the morning walking through the park, crossed over the floating bridge, and ate some pineapple at the beach. 

While I did like this park, I have my reservations about the sculptures installed. A few of them are interesting, but most of them are, in my opinion, rather unsuitable and a little suggestive. 

The auto drivers outside the gate are well aware of the dearth of transportation here and charge far more than is reasonable even for a short ride. Not willing to give in to their rates, much to the horror of my poor left foot, I walked all the way back to my room. Walking at slower than snail's pace, stopping frequently to flex my foot, I finally got back, picking up some lunch along the way. I was done.

Spent the rest of the day resting, working on my sketches and packing my bags. 

Before bed, I pre-booked a cab to take me to the airport the next morning, and ensuring I had packed everything, I went to bed.

DAY 10.

The cab did not arrive and, contrary to public assurances, there were no autos in sight. The streets were absolutely deserted as far as the eye could see. Uber & Ola showed no rides available. A word of appreciation, here, to my Airbnb host and his mother for waiting on the street with me at that very hourly hour.  

After almost ten minutes of waiting, I managed to get an auto to Terminal 1 of Trivandrum Airport. I breezed through security and then, after a simple meal of plain, crispy dosa, settled down with a cup of coffee. The flight was on time, smooth & mercifully free of loud passengers and even louder children. 

Soon, a very chirpy co-pilot's sing-song voice announced our proximity to Mumbai. I looked out the window. As expected, the lovely sea of clouds had now been replaced by a blanket of smog - dense, grey and absolutely obscuring any view of land below. The AQI in Mumbai has been getting increasingly worse and necessitates, once again, the use of a face mask. 

But smog or no smog, it was really nice to get back home. One vacation done. The next one’s soon to follow. 

Pics by Misha

@misha.kamath