Monday, November 18, 2019

Rajasthan Diaries. Part III.


GOLD

5 am saw us jump into an auto and make our way to Jodhpur railway station. From here on, we'd be journing by bus to the desert city of Jaisalmer.

Jaisalmer – The Golden City
November 06 – 07, 2019.

Placing our bags safely on the berth above us, we lay down for a short nap as our train made its way towards Jaisalmer, the Golden City of Rajasthan.

Day 1.
Rajputana Desert Camp. Sam Desert.

By noon, we arrived at Jaisalmer station. Waiting for us at the station was our pick-up to take us to Rajputana Desert Camp. Along the way, we stopped at a dhaba for lunch….chicken curry, curd raita & fresh, hot rotis. We had a long ride ahead of us, a little more than an hour, and in that time we alternated between catching a few winks and gazing out at the vast, empty landscape stretched out around us.

Finally, we reached our destination, Rajputana Desert Camp. A large circle of tents around a circular stage/podium at the centre. Hoping we had chosen well & not sure what to expect, we entered the assigned tent. One large bed, a spare bed, a fan, a few chairs and an attached bathroom. Pretty basic, we thought, as we unpacked and then curled up in bed for much needed sleep. It was a little past 2pm and the sun was beating down on the earth outside the tent. In an hour or so, we woke up refreshed and ready to see what the Camp had in store for us.






We began with a Jeep Safari. Individual vehicles are provided for every group and the 25 minute ride is great fun as the vehicle, and its occupants, go bouncing & shirking over the undulating dunes. At the end of the very enjoyable ride we sat awhile in the desert to watch the sunset and other tourists as they posed with the gaily decorated camels.


Back at the camp, we were welcomed with the traditional tikka, the applying of a vermillion dot on the forehead. Soon, occupants of other tents began assembling on the mattresses placed around the circular stage. While local musicians entertained us with folk songs we were served hot cups of chai & pakoras. For the next hour, the musicians played gaily and graceful dancers bedecked in colorful costumes danced to the music. 


Not waiting to watch the tourists join in to loud, pop music, we made our way towards the dining hall & feasted on a yummy, traditional meal (all veg).
Then bath & bed.

Day 2.
The Camel Safari & Jaisalmer Fort.

Early the next morning, at 6am, we were dressed & ready for day two. The previous day had been very enjoyable and it had been followed by a restful nights' sleep.
At the entrance of the camp, waiting for us, were two camels - Koilu & Shahrukh, and our guide, Ali. The next hour was spent enjoying a camel ride into the desert where we stayed to watch the sun rise over the dunes before heading back to camp.




Post breakfast, where we chatted with other travellers, we headed back to our tent to pack & bathe. We had enjoyed our stay at the Camp and the experience of both, the jeep & the camel safari.
The car soon arrived to take us where we might chose to go.

Having not heard much about things to do in Jaisalmer, we had planned to hire a vehicle to take us to the fort and the few other sights mentioned in guide books. At the last moment, however, we changed our mind. Tonight we had a long bus journey ahead of us & we thought we could do with some rest. We instructed our driver to drop us at Jaisalmer Fort for we had made reservations at Ganesh Guest House, a small, but very comfortable guesthouse we discovered online. Once we got to the fort we were surprised to find that our little guesthouse was located in the fort. How exciting! A room inside a fort!



Jaisalmer Fort was so much more than we had expected. It was, for us, like being in an entirely different world. All around you are walls & structures of beautiful yellow sandstone and narrow winding lanes lined on either side with all sorts of goodies for sale. The whole place has a very exotic feel to it, unlike the usual crowded marketplaces.












Jaisalmer Fort, or the Golden Fort, as it is called, is one of the very few living forts with nearly ¼ of the old city's population still living inside the fort.
For lunch we entered 'Lake View', a little circular restaurant at the top of the fort. The place had a very eclectic feel & provided great views of the city beyond the fort walls. Food, like everywhere in Rajasthan, was prepared fresh &, although it took time to be served, was yummy, flavorful & perfect.



We enjoyed our time in the fort. Had we known it was such a lovely experience, we'd have spent another day here. Sadly, we had to head to the bus-stand at the Air force Circle that very evening. As we were leaving, the rays of the setting sun turned the entire fort to a warm, dazzling gold. Spectacular!

Highlights of our Jaisalmer experience:

-          The jeep & camel safari in the desert.
-          Everything about Ganesh Guesthouse & the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer.






Pics by Misha

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