Exploring Goa....again!

After a hectic few months at work this particular visit to Goa was exactly what I needed to unwind. This time, unlike many times before, we actually managed to get train tickets and spent close to 12 hours aboard the Mandovi Express that leaves from CST (formerly VT) at 7.15 am. The journey was long and uneventful but the changing view outside the window was quite refreshing, as were the many snacks sold aboard the train. 

Personally, I usually prefer to travel by the Konkan Kanya Express that leaves close to 11 pm. Since it’s a night train, the length of the journey doesn't seem too tedious. And, best of all, being an early riser, I thoroughly enjoy the sights of Goa that begin to grow visible with the dawn. Those early hours of gazing at the coconut and cashew trees, whitewashed churches and tiled roofs never fail to fill me with an inner peace and a sense of being home. The more familiar the sights the happier and lighter I feel. Unfortunately, by the time the Mandovi Express choo-choos into Goa, it’s nearing sunset and not much is visible outside.

On reaching Margao a little after 9 pm. we were met by two of my favorite people with whom we headed straight for a rustic little restaurant called Durigo and feasted on yummy Goan delicacies of pork amsol, squid butter-garlic, sorpatel and sannas. Durigo, like many other goan restaurants, is a family-run establishment with a regular Portuguese style villa in front and the restaurant in a shed at the back. The food here is fairly good, but the portions are extremely small. Having filled our bellies, we headed home and crashed into bed.

Early next morning, after meeting family and exchanging hugs and hellos, we rode our bikes towards Netravalli, a remote, little village around 2 hours away from Margao, I think. It's an easy route to follow thanks to the many signboards pointing the way. The road is narrow and in extremely good condition.

For most part, the route took us through open fields and what looked like forests. It was an extremely pleasant ride, especially when travelled by bike. The weather was absolutely perfect for the long, long ride. We made just two stops en route...one for a cup of tea and the other to stock up on beer and rum, for no picnic in Goa is complete without 'fuel'. 

Once we got to our destination, chewing on sugarcane stolen from the fields that lined the road, we parked our vehicles and began a 30-45 minute walk through the forest alongside a river that although almost dry now, is flooded during the monsoons.

Thus, clambering over boulders, wading through forest streams and climbing over fallen trees we finally found what we had come in search of, the waterfall.  

Apart from us and another small group of boys there was absolutely no one else in that wonderfully shaded slice of Heaven. Soon, stripping down to our swimwear, some of us dived into the ice-cold pool and spent a good time swimming and splashing about before heading back the way we had come. Along the way we spotted some snakes that watched us from their throne around the gnarled trees.

Around 10 minutes away is a little village where we had asked for lunch to be prepared at one of the street-side restaurants. Gurukrupa Hotel is more like a shack by the beach actually and doubles up as a grocery store for the village. There are just two simple tables that seat a total of eight people, which was just right for us. The meal served was simple, yet wholesome - rice, fish curry, salad, cluster beans, pickle, fried fish and sol-kadi (a delicious beverage made with kokum, water, chilies and coriander). Having licked our platters clean we rode back towards home.

Somewhere along the way we took a detour and went to explore what's left of some ancient rock sculptures. They're a series of abstract and random figures that have been carved into the rock surface at our feet.

They depict animals, human figures and geometric shapes. Right across this spot is a Kushavati Spice Plantation (contact: 8806329311) that caters to many tourists. The farm is full of betel nut trees and various other spice trees and bushes. Visitors can also stay here although one has to book much in advance. One can also purchase honey and various spices.

The next afternoon, our group (with a few more members) drove three hours towards the north of Goa to spend the night at Raut Farms, at Sal- Goa (contact: 9420818646), a remote yet pretty farm somewhere on the border between Goa and Maharashtra.

The rooms here are clean, large and airy, and, thankfully, lack the presence of the idiot box. There’s a large, well-kept lawn where the boys played a game of football and two little swimming pools for those who’d like to take a dip. Apart from this, there are many fruit trees and also a little river and brightly colored paddle-boats.

Having carried some marinated chicken with us, we set up our barbeque and had a jolly good time grilling and eating the bird before dinner was served.

The meal which has to be ordered in advance was placed at the table outside our rooms and we shared a delicious, typically-Goan meal together. This was followed by a lovely bonfire and then, bed. 

Early the next morning, my cousin and I jumped into the ice-cold pool which, at that time of the morning was absolutely deserted. The others came in much later by which time we were bathed and had hung our bathing suits out to dry.

For breakfast we walked across the lawn to what serves as the farm kitchen and were served plates of hot chana bhajji and bread, an all-time favorite, and steaming cups of tea.

Post lunch, we drove to Goa’s famous Bondla Zoo (contact: 0832-2935800).

Although not overly spectacular, I must admit that the Bondla Zoo is far better than the Rani Baug of Mumbai. The animals and birds look healthy and their enclosures are quite large unlike the cramped and smelly cages of the zoo in Mumbai.

 Among others, the zoo houses two magnificent tigers, a couple of leopards, wild boars, snakes and the Gaur, the state animal of Goa. There are well manicured lawns and fairly clean picnic areas. Tourist can spend the night in one of the many cottages and forest lodges in the sanctuary. Many large deer and friendly monkeys roam around freely, so don’t be surprised if one of them comes over to greet you.

By the time we got home that evening, I was absolutely exhausted and wanted nothing more than a nice, warm bath and my bed. All that was left for me to really complete my trip was to sit awhile at Colva Beach, another place that, for me, spells serenity. I did that the very next evening.

That was about all the exploring I could manage this time since I couldn't take more time off from work then. Have already begun working on a list of off-d-beaten-track places of Goa that I hope to explore the next time I feel the urge to escape the rush and grind of Mumbai.

Pics by Misha.