AHMEDABAD AGAIN - AUGUST 2025

 

The ongoing Ganesh festival gave me an opportunity to take a few days off and visit, once again, the city of Ahmedabad. When I last visited, my experience of the city was limited to the Sabarmati Ashram, Kankaria Lake, the Atal Bridge, a few temples and Akshardham, in Gandhinagar. 

This time, I wanted to see more of what might have earned this city the title of UNESCO World Heritage City. 

With that in mind, I boarded the Ahmedabad Shatabdi at Mumbai Central. The journey was comfortable and quite uneventful. Caught a glimpse of the newspaper distributors busy at work in the wee hours of the morning at Bandra Station, which, as always, was beautifully lit. 

The Shatabdi Express, when I boarded, was fairly empty, allowing me to spend some quiet time. Soon, meals were served and people began to fill the seats as we moved ahead from one station to the next. 

A little about Ahmedabad: The city of Ahmedabad was said to have ben founded by Ahmad Shah I, over the ancient settlement of Ashaval, in 1411. Ahmedabad was a walled city with many gates. Today, however, while the walls are no longer in existence, some of the gates still stand as a testimony to the history of the city. The city is an important commercial center in Gujarat.

I was hoping for some rain in Ahmedabad, but was greeted with extremely scorching, dry heat, in spite of the cloudy skies. After waiting a while, I managed to get an auto to Hotel Pleasant Lake, very close to Kankaria Lake. I'd stayed here during my last visit and quite liked the hotel and its proximity to the lake park and the easy access to local transport. 

After checking in, I took a much needed nap, not just to make up for rising really early that morning, but also to avoid the afternoon heat outside. In the evening, I headed towards Manek Chowk, deciding to walk the distance and explore the neighborhood. I passed by some quiet residential areas, colourful shanties and busy street corners. I also walked by the Astodiya Darwaza and caught a glimpse of the Rani Sipri ni Masjid, locally known as Masjid-e-Nagina. Commissioned in 1514 by Queen Sipri, the Hindu wife of Mahmud Begada, this beautiful monument is known for the intricate jaali work on its walls. 

Moving on, I entered some by lane that led me towards some tiny jewelry shops, then, street vendors selling costume jewelry at rates so good I just had to stop and buy a few trinkets. Turning left, I stepped out into the bustling market street known as Manek Chowk, and the crowd there was suffocating! The streets were lined with shops and stalls selling bags, undergarments, jewelry, plastic containers and many other things that clearly interested the shoppers who were swarming around like noisy flies. 

I bought a few more earrings and, unable to bear the crowds anymore, took an auto back to the hotel. But then, instead of going up to my room, I walked across the street to Gate 1 of Kankariya Lake. The next hour or so, I spent eating an ice-cream & walking around the lake in peaceful silence, watching the birds, the fish and the families that, like me, were enjoying an evening in the park. 

The Kankariya Lake Park is, as I said before, is a must-visit. The construction of this, the largest lake in Ahmedabad, was started by Sultan Muizz-ud-Din Muhammad Shah II in the 15th century. Today, it has a Lakefront developed around it, with many public attractions including a zoo, an amusement park, a toy train and many little restaurants. It's all really pretty to look at after sunset, when it all lights up with coloured lights. 

What's impressive about this park is how well thought out it is, with something for everyone to do. The promenade is kept clean and there are huge bins provided at regular intervals. One can sit by the lake or on the many benches available. The lake itself is clean and serene, with many birds and the Nagina Bagh in the middle of the lake. Here, for ₹20, one can enjoy a short musical performance of 'dancing fountains & laser lights'. 

I sat at one of the little food stalls by the lake and ordered a pav-bhaji. It was served hot with a pool of melted butter almost spilling over the sides of the plate. Good thing I had a long walk back towards the gate after all that butter. 

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast at the hotel, I made my way towards Tankshal Market, known for its many offerings of costume jewellery. Being still early in the day, many of the shops were just opening and the streets were not crowded. Managed to get some pretty pendants at really good rates and stopped outside many shops to admire the shiny & colourful, mirror jewellery on display - kadas, bracelets, necklaces, kamarbandhs - all so very pretty! 

Soon, I came to Fernandes Bridge constructed across the old dried-up water feature in 1884 AD. Today, this bridge is a landmark known for the book market underneath. Here, one can buy notebooks, textbooks for various competitive exams, novels and used books. 

Walking along, I stopped to click pictures of a few pols and some old, almost rundown structures that, in their time, must have surely been beautiful. 

THE POLS OF AHMEDABAD: Pols were the typical housing cluster of the old city of Ahmedabad. They mostly comprise many families of a particular group, linked by caste, profession or religion. Many of these pols were protected by guards at the gate, to keep residents safe from thieves and thugs. Each pol branches out into narrow by-lanes lines with beautiful little houses on either side of the busy street. While some pols still showcase the traditional architecture in wood and the beautiful havelis, a lot many houses are in urgent need of repair, having stood in a state of neglect as the city outgrew its seams.

The old city itself is said to have close to 360 pols, if not more, the oldest being aptly named Mahurat Pol.

 Soon, I was somehow back at Manek Chowk, where all roads seem to lead. This morning, however, the streets were not crowded and vendors were yet to set up shop. Was this able to view the Teen Darwaza up close and at leisure before hailing an auto to take me to Sabarmati Ashram, also known as Gandhi Ashram.  

 Now, my last visit to this historically significant place had been very disappointing. Teeming with loud, unruly crowds, I had found the ashram devoid of the peace and sanctity expected from a stronghold of Satyagraha & Ahinsa. This time, however, I was treated to the sweet sound of birds all around - doves, mynahs, parakeets (so many of them), and even a boisterous peacock. The fragrance of flowers were carried along by the window, and all around me there was peace and serenity. I explored the Mahatma's house and the other buildings of the Ashram in respectful silence and then sat under the shade of a neem tree, watching the waters of the Sabarmati gently flowing by. 

Back on the road, heading next towards a vav (stepwell), I managed to click pictures of some of the gates that Ahmedabad is famous for - Daryapur Darwaza, Delhi Darwaza, Idgarh Circle. 

THE DARWAZAS OF AHMEDABAD: As mentioned earlier, the darwazas, or gateways, are all that remain of the city walls of Ahmedabad. The longest and oldest and longest gateway is said to be the Teen Darwaza. Others, like the Delhi Darwaza (that faces Delhi) and the Astodiya Darwaza function as traffic islands.

 The Bai Harir ni Vav (stepwell), the mosque and the tomb are dedicated to Bai Harir Sultana, superintendent of Sultan Mahmud Shah Begada’s harem. Constructed in 1499, the five storey stepwell is beautiful in style, design and construction and I quite love walking into its depths, although my mind actively conjures up images of shadowy beings staring at me from the dark corners and I quickly trot back up towards the surface. The many supporting columns at every level create quite a stunning effect and allow for a dramatic play of light and shade that only intensifies as one steps lower. The vav has an octagonal shaft with a spiral staircase on either side giving access to each level. There are rich carvings all around and I sat on the stairs awhile, admiring their beauty. 

The adjoining mosque and mausoleum are also beautiful. Constructed, like the vav, entirely of sandstone, these monuments have an air of peace around them. After studying the exterior of the mosque, I took my time admiring the intricate lattice work all around the mausoleum. The caretaker invited me to enter and provided much insight into the residents of the graves within. 

Although the design is such that it allows for a lot of natural light to filter in, being a rather cloudy day, the interior was dark and damp and the only muted light that came in through the door cast an eerie spotlight on the graves on the bare floor. I felt the cold down to my bones and couldn't wait to step back out. Waited politely for the caretaker to finish what he had to say and then was very relieved to be outdoors again. Walked around the mausoleum once, to take a better look at the lattice work and then, thanking the caretaker, I left, making my way, next, towards the Atal Bridge. 

Inaugurated in 2022, this triangular truss bridge across the Sabarmati River is worth a visit. It's a pedestrian bridge constructed in a colourful kite design. There are two little cafés and ample seating for visitors. I purchased my ticket and walked across & back, heading towards the Flower Garden at the foot of the bridge. Sadly, not many flowers there, so I didn't stay long. Booked another auto and went back to the hotel for a hot bath and an early night. 

 Early on Day 3, after a hearty breakfast at the hotel, I set out to look for two mausoleums - the Badshah no Hajiro and the Rani ni Hajiro, both of which are right in the midst of Manek Chowk. 

Both these mausoleums are easily missed, really, on account of the many street stalls and residences completely overpowering them. The entryways are covered by plastic sheets and signboards and the monuments themselves are very poorly maintained. The Badshah no Hajiro (King's Mausoleum), completed in 1451, is a medieval mosque and group of tombs, mainly that of the founder of Ahmedabad, Ahmad Shah I. Women are not allowed in here, so I saw nothing beyond the outer walls and the jaalis. There is a lot of rubbish piled against the monument - broken furniture, cartons, etc. And the monument itself is in need of repair in many places. Local residences are very close all around the Badshah no Hajiro and the surroundings are unkempt and quite filthy. Quite shocked that a monument of religious significance & historical importance was so poorly maintained with such an absolute sense of disrespect. 

And the Rani ni Hajiro across the street is no better. In fact, it is far worse in condition. Jewelry and garment shops are all around this mausoleum. The informative signages are also covered entirely by the bright plastic sheet of a jewellery vendor's stall. All around, the floor is filthy and there is garbage scattered around & stuffed into the jaali-work. It is clear that the local street sellers use the premises to stash their wares and leave the place foul-smelling and filthy. Built in 1445, this mausoleum houses the tombs of Ahmad Shah's queens. I only managed a peek through some of the jaalis.

Today, more than mosques or mausoleums, these monuments are largely identified as bustling market sites famous for trinkets and costume jewellry.

 A short distance away, I entered Ratan Pol, a popular lane for shopping if you wish to buy sarees, lehengas and other festive wear. 

I purchased some colourful kurtas for family and, happy with my purchases, I went to Purohit’s to enjoy a delicious Gujrati thali lunch. What an enjoyable meal that was! Lunch done, I went back to the hotel for a much needed rest.

Later, I spent the evening at the Kankariya Lake Park, enjoying some rides at the amusement park and a taking a leisurely stroll around the park.

There is a lot lacking in the maintenance of these mausoleums and it speaks loudly of a total disregard and disrespect for history. 

 The next morning, after breakfast I checked out of the hotel. I still had a good few hours to spend before boarding the train back to Mumbai, so I decided to tick off a few more sites from off my list. First, I visitied the beautiful Jama Masjid. This mosque, built in 1424 during the reign of Ahmad Shah I, lies within what used to be the old walled city. The mosque complex is built of yellow sandstone and has a large paved courtyard with a shaded ablution tank in the middle. The Badshah no Hajiro lies to the east of this mosque, while to the west is a prayer hall. There are three entrances to this mosque – one to the East, leading to the Badshah no Hajiro, and two others to the North and South, the latter being the primary entrance. Along the south wall, the colonnade is painted with giant Arabic calligraphy. The masjid offers a peaceful quiet so different from the chaotic din outside its walls.

 I went, next, to the Hutheesing Jain Temple, named for its benefactor, a wealthy merchant of Ahmedabad. Constructed in 1848, of pure white marble, this temple reminds one of a traditional haveli complete with rich and intricate carvings. The principal temple dedicated to Dharmanatha, the 15^th Jain Tirthankara, is surrounded by an open courtyard and a colonnaded cloister of 52 sacred shrines known as devakulikas.

 As a last stop on my itinerary, I had to choose between the Swaminarayana Temple and the Jhulta Minara at Gomtipur. I chose the latter as the doors of the temple would, in all probability, be closed by the time I got there.

A point to note is that there are two sets of these shaking pillars in Ahmedabad. One is within the vicinity of the Sidi Bashir Mosque, near the Sarangpur Darwaza, and the other is near the Kalupur Railway Station. The latter, also known as Bibiji Masjid, has taller minarets, but one of them is believed to have been partially dismantled by the British in a bid to understanding what makes one minar shake when the other moves. Sadly, since they could not figure out the engineering, they couldn’t put it back together and so it remains to this day.

A senior gentleman named Rehmat Ali was kind enough to show me around the mosque and tell me about its history. I was quite happy when he said that women were allowed to enter this mosque. In fact, the mosque also takes into account its female worshippers and has provisions for a separate prayer area for them on an upper level, complete with a separate entrance.  He proceeded to show me the beautiful architecture inside the mosque, the best feature of which was the intricate stone carving on one of the windows in a Far corner. Carved out of one rock, the detailing is so masterfully done, that it allows for a peacock feather to pass through any of its crevices. Sadly, visitors are no longer permitted to climb to the top of the minars to experience their oscillation.

 After a long and leisurely exploration of the Bibiji Masjid, I made my way to Ahmedabad Junction. It was almost time for my train. For the return journey, I had booked a seat in the Anubhuti Class coach, said to be equivalent to 1^st class travel in price & comfort. I did not find it comfortable at all. And the seats were dirty and covered I layers of dust and grime, a muddy brown laver hiding the vibrant blue upholstery. Service & meals, however, were good. 

 A final word: I liked Ahmedabad for its food and for its bustling markets. What I did, however, find disappointing was the incessant spitting all over the city and the poor state of its historic monuments.

Spitting seems to be the favourite pastime of the city’s residents and they indulge in it indiscriminately, spitting left, right & centre, even on doorsteps of shops they are standing in. It’s disgusting and sickening. For a city that boasts of being a Smart City, they don’t seem to be too smart about sanitation and hygiene.

As for being a UNESCO Heritage City, I do not understand how the city holds on to that title when their monuments are in such a poor state of disrepair and disrespect. It’s like the city has decided to swallow up what actually makes it great. Our monuments, like our food, architecture and dress, are a major part of our heritage…our identity. And the Teen Darwaza, the Hajiro, the many Darwazas….they could all do with a lot more TLC if we are to hold on to our identity and our national pride.