GOLD
5 am saw us jump into an auto and
make our way to Jodhpur railway station. From here on, we'd be journing by bus
to the desert city of Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer – The Golden City
November 06 – 07, 2019.
Placing our bags safely on the berth
above us, we lay down for a short nap as our train made its way towards
Jaisalmer, the Golden City of Rajasthan.
Day 1.
Rajputana Desert Camp. Sam Desert.
By noon, we arrived at Jaisalmer
station. Waiting for us at the station was our pick-up to take us to Rajputana
Desert Camp. Along the way, we stopped at a dhaba
for lunch….chicken curry, curd raita &
fresh, hot rotis. We had a long ride
ahead of us, a little more than an hour, and in that time we alternated between
catching a few winks and gazing out at the vast, empty landscape stretched out
around us.
Finally,
we reached our destination, Rajputana
Desert Camp. A large circle of tents around a circular stage/podium at
the centre. Hoping we had chosen well & not sure what to expect, we entered
the assigned tent. One large bed, a spare bed, a fan, a few chairs and an
attached bathroom. Pretty basic, we thought, as we unpacked and then curled up
in bed for much needed sleep. It was a little past 2pm and the sun was beating
down on the earth outside the tent. In an hour or so, we woke up refreshed and
ready to see what the Camp had in store for us.
We
began with a Jeep Safari. Individual
vehicles are provided for every group and the 25 minute ride is great fun as
the vehicle, and its occupants, go bouncing & shirking over the undulating
dunes. At the end of the very enjoyable ride we sat awhile in the desert to
watch the sunset and other tourists as they posed with the gaily decorated
camels.
Back
at the camp, we were welcomed with the traditional tikka, the applying of a vermillion dot on the forehead. Soon,
occupants of other tents began assembling on the mattresses placed around the
circular stage. While local musicians entertained us with folk songs we were
served hot cups of chai & pakoras. For the next hour, the
musicians played gaily and graceful dancers bedecked in colorful costumes
danced to the music.
Not waiting to watch the tourists join in to loud, pop music, we made our way towards the dining hall & feasted on a yummy, traditional meal (all veg).
Not waiting to watch the tourists join in to loud, pop music, we made our way towards the dining hall & feasted on a yummy, traditional meal (all veg).
Early
the next morning, at 6am, we were dressed & ready for day two. The previous
day had been very enjoyable and it had been followed by a restful nights'
sleep.
At
the entrance of the camp, waiting for us, were two camels - Koilu &
Shahrukh, and our guide, Ali. The next hour was spent enjoying a camel ride
into the desert where we stayed to watch the sun rise over the dunes before
heading back to camp.
Post
breakfast, where we chatted with other travellers, we headed back to our tent
to pack & bathe. We had enjoyed our stay at the Camp and the experience of
both, the jeep & the camel safari.
Having
not heard much about things to do in Jaisalmer, we had planned to hire a
vehicle to take us to the fort and the few other sights mentioned in guide
books. At the last moment, however, we changed our mind. Tonight we had a long
bus journey ahead of us & we thought we could do with some rest. We
instructed our driver to drop us at Jaisalmer Fort for we had made reservations
at Ganesh Guest House, a small,
but very comfortable guesthouse we discovered online. Once we got to the fort
we were surprised to find that our little guesthouse was located in the fort.
How exciting! A room inside a fort!
Jaisalmer Fort was so much more than we had
expected. It was, for us, like being in an entirely different world. All around
you are walls & structures of beautiful yellow sandstone and narrow winding
lanes lined on either side with all sorts of goodies for sale. The whole place
has a very exotic feel to it, unlike the usual crowded marketplaces.
Jaisalmer
Fort, or the Golden Fort, as it is called, is one of the very few living forts
with nearly ¼ of the old city's population still living inside the fort.
For
lunch we entered 'Lake View', a little circular restaurant at the top of the
fort. The place had a very eclectic feel & provided great views of the city
beyond the fort walls. Food, like everywhere in Rajasthan, was prepared fresh
&, although it took time to be served, was yummy, flavorful & perfect.
We enjoyed our time in the fort. Had
we known it was such a lovely experience, we'd have spent another day here.
Sadly, we had to head to the bus-stand at the Air force Circle that very
evening. As we were leaving, the rays of the setting sun turned the entire fort
to a warm, dazzling gold. Spectacular!
Highlights of our Jaisalmer experience:
-
The
jeep & camel safari in the desert.
-
Everything
about Ganesh Guesthouse & the Golden Fort of Jaisalmer.
Pics by Misha
Pics by Misha
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