A Foggy Weekend at Mahabaleshwar

This in one post that has been long overdue as this particular doctor’s visit to Mahabaleshwar was undertaken sometime in August. My brother and I suddenly came up with the idea of getting out for the weekend and in less than 24 hours we were driving out towards Mahabaleshwar. Yes, I have been here before and there’s already a post about this quaint hill station, but our experience this time was totally unexpected and absolutely awesome! Quite a few firsts for me this time….

To begin with, it was my first experience of driving along the Expressway and having my car tyre go BLAM! Avoiding the cars zipping by, we slowly maneuvered to the side of the road and looked around for someone who could fix the damage. You might say we were lucky to stop right outside some kind on industrial site where two employees were chatting right by the gate. Seeing we were in a spot, they rushed to our aid and after checking the most definitely deceased tyre, asked us if we had a spare. We did, but that one was almost flat itself. Still, it managed to get us to the Food Mall 7 kms away.

That’s where I first got to see how a car tyre is fixed. I know nothing about cars so I can’t really explain it well enough, but I was fascinated by that machine that pops out the tyre and then fits one on again…with a little popping sound.

Having got the car back in action, we continued the long drive towards Mahabaleshwar. There’s something about the place we quite like. It’s changed since the years it functioned as the summer getaway for the British, but it has still managed to hold on to its old world charm. Driving past the busy little town of Panchgani, we stopped at Mapro gardens for lunch. Mum, who was visiting Mahabaleshwar for the first time quite liked the place although she found it a little chilly. We feasted on pizzas and some potato soup, clicked a few pictures, purchased an armful of Mapro products and then continued our journey. Oh, and this was about the first time I didn’t click any pictures along the way…which is why I’m having to make do with the squiggles and doodles that are gracing this particular write-up. But don’t worry, my trusty camera did find some use later.

The weather got cooler as we entered Mahabaleshwar. To our surprise, almost all the houses and buildings were covered from roof to floor with sheets of plastic, palm leaves and cane mats. 

The Town Square

Seemed a little eerie at first….until we turned into the lane leading to the MTDC Resort. The entire tree-lined lane was hidden by a dense fog…the first I’d ever seen or experienced. It was just around 2 in the afternoon, but as dark as after sundown already.

We first catch sight of the fog

At once, we jumped out of the car to see what a fog felt like. Mum stayed put in the car and it was quite a task to get her to step out. You see, mum watches too much of those creepy crime shows so she now expects murderers and villains everywhere. She kept urging us to get back in the car before, I quote, ‘someone steps out of the fog, murders us and throws us by the side of the road.’

Driving out at night

The rooms at MTDC were wonderfully large, but miserably damp and musty. Apparently, that’s the reason why everyone here covers their homes with plastic during the monsoons. It’s to keep the fog from entering the houses and ruining the walls and the furniture. So, for around four long months the houses stay covered. Hubby and I like peace and quiet, so we booked two cottages away from the reception and dining area. Everything looked like a scene straight out of a Bollywood-style horror flick.

Towards our cottage

Our cottage.

Mum, with her over-imaginative mind bundled herself up into bed and kept her ears out for any suspicious sound that broke through the cold and silence. When we stepped out to explore Bombay Point which was the closest to where we were staying, we were thrilled to find it absolutely deserted. The last time I’d been there, it was crowded and loud. Tourists chatted loudly; horses trotted about with children on their backs, food stalls were doing great business. Today, it was like the ghost towns we read about in old westerns. The fog was so dense; we couldn't see more than a few meters ahead of us. Every little sound was magnified in the eerie silence and, (this time I had to agree with mum) the sounds seemed to get closer and closer. Mum, bro and I huddled up together in the gazebo while my adventurous husband decided to explore and click some snaps. I was secretly quite relieved when he returned and we drove back into town.

Under the Gazebo

Again, the streets were almost deserted, although some tourists ambled around and made their purchases at the few shops that were open for business. Having not much to do, we drove down to Old Mahabaleshwar and sat awhile at the ancient Panchganga Temple where the stones under your feet are always cool even in the hot Indian summers. Since it began to rain just as we stepped out, we stopped at a tea stall and sipped on some steaming hot tea and coffee.

Chai

I sat watching a senior gentleman dressed in kurta-pajama, vest, scarf and skull cap as he took a small bunch of tourists around the temple complex and told them about its history and architecture. I had to smile. ‘Here is a beautiful and simple example of the ‘unity in diversity’ we talk about in India’, I said to myself.

Early the next morning, bro and I went for a nice, hour long Ayurvedic massage while mum stayed back with the assurance that her brave son-in-law was asleep in the adjoining cottage and would rush to her rescue in the event that some murderous villain decided to attack her. After breakfast at the Resort cafe, we decided to brave the fog and drive around to see what we could of some of the popular points.

Exploring Mahabaleshwar on foot

Driving through the fog was an entirely surreal experience especially because it held an element of risk and danger. Where we could admire the valleys far below, this time all we could see was fog, fog and fog for as far as the eyes could see. It was so cold, why; there was frost even on my brother’s eyelashes!

Jack Frost

Driving back towards Mumbai, we stopped once again at Mapro Gardens for a bite and then sat chatting about how wonderful the fog was. Mum was the happiest to get out of Mahabaleshwar even though (as she admitted much later) she did enjoy the trip. She’s more of a summer creature and prefers the sun and crowds of noisy people for company. We asked her if she’d like to visit the place in December. Her answer was silence accompanied by a stern glare in our direction.

The rest of us are keen to return during the next monsoon season for we had great fun and enjoyed our selves tremendously. 

Pics by Misha & Akshay

Exploring Goa....again!

After a hectic few months at work this particular visit to Goa was exactly what I needed to unwind. This time, unlike many times before, we actually managed to get train tickets and spent close to 12 hours aboard the Mandovi Express that leaves from CST (formerly VT) at 7.15 am. The journey was long and uneventful but the changing view outside the window was quite refreshing, as were the many snacks sold aboard the train. 

Personally, I usually prefer to travel by the Konkan Kanya Express that leaves close to 11 pm. Since it’s a night train, the length of the journey doesn't seem too tedious. And, best of all, being an early riser, I thoroughly enjoy the sights of Goa that begin to grow visible with the dawn. Those early hours of gazing at the coconut and cashew trees, whitewashed churches and tiled roofs never fail to fill me with an inner peace and a sense of being home. The more familiar the sights the happier and lighter I feel. Unfortunately, by the time the Mandovi Express choo-choos into Goa, it’s nearing sunset and not much is visible outside.

On reaching Margao a little after 9 pm. we were met by two of my favorite people with whom we headed straight for a rustic little restaurant called Durigo and feasted on yummy Goan delicacies of pork amsol, squid butter-garlic, sorpatel and sannas. Durigo, like many other goan restaurants, is a family-run establishment with a regular Portuguese style villa in front and the restaurant in a shed at the back. The food here is fairly good, but the portions are extremely small. Having filled our bellies, we headed home and crashed into bed.

Early next morning, after meeting family and exchanging hugs and hellos, we rode our bikes towards Netravalli, a remote, little village around 2 hours away from Margao, I think. It's an easy route to follow thanks to the many signboards pointing the way. The road is narrow and in extremely good condition.

For most part, the route took us through open fields and what looked like forests. It was an extremely pleasant ride, especially when travelled by bike. The weather was absolutely perfect for the long, long ride. We made just two stops en route...one for a cup of tea and the other to stock up on beer and rum, for no picnic in Goa is complete without 'fuel'. 

Once we got to our destination, chewing on sugarcane stolen from the fields that lined the road, we parked our vehicles and began a 30-45 minute walk through the forest alongside a river that although almost dry now, is flooded during the monsoons.

Thus, clambering over boulders, wading through forest streams and climbing over fallen trees we finally found what we had come in search of, the waterfall.  

Apart from us and another small group of boys there was absolutely no one else in that wonderfully shaded slice of Heaven. Soon, stripping down to our swimwear, some of us dived into the ice-cold pool and spent a good time swimming and splashing about before heading back the way we had come. Along the way we spotted some snakes that watched us from their throne around the gnarled trees.

Around 10 minutes away is a little village where we had asked for lunch to be prepared at one of the street-side restaurants. Gurukrupa Hotel is more like a shack by the beach actually and doubles up as a grocery store for the village. There are just two simple tables that seat a total of eight people, which was just right for us. The meal served was simple, yet wholesome - rice, fish curry, salad, cluster beans, pickle, fried fish and sol-kadi (a delicious beverage made with kokum, water, chilies and coriander). Having licked our platters clean we rode back towards home.

Somewhere along the way we took a detour and went to explore what's left of some ancient rock sculptures. They're a series of abstract and random figures that have been carved into the rock surface at our feet.

They depict animals, human figures and geometric shapes. Right across this spot is a Kushavati Spice Plantation (contact: 8806329311) that caters to many tourists. The farm is full of betel nut trees and various other spice trees and bushes. Visitors can also stay here although one has to book much in advance. One can also purchase honey and various spices.

The next afternoon, our group (with a few more members) drove three hours towards the north of Goa to spend the night at Raut Farms, at Sal- Goa (contact: 9420818646), a remote yet pretty farm somewhere on the border between Goa and Maharashtra.

The rooms here are clean, large and airy, and, thankfully, lack the presence of the idiot box. There’s a large, well-kept lawn where the boys played a game of football and two little swimming pools for those who’d like to take a dip. Apart from this, there are many fruit trees and also a little river and brightly colored paddle-boats.

Having carried some marinated chicken with us, we set up our barbeque and had a jolly good time grilling and eating the bird before dinner was served.

The meal which has to be ordered in advance was placed at the table outside our rooms and we shared a delicious, typically-Goan meal together. This was followed by a lovely bonfire and then, bed. 

Early the next morning, my cousin and I jumped into the ice-cold pool which, at that time of the morning was absolutely deserted. The others came in much later by which time we were bathed and had hung our bathing suits out to dry.

For breakfast we walked across the lawn to what serves as the farm kitchen and were served plates of hot chana bhajji and bread, an all-time favorite, and steaming cups of tea.

Post lunch, we drove to Goa’s famous Bondla Zoo (contact: 0832-2935800).

Although not overly spectacular, I must admit that the Bondla Zoo is far better than the Rani Baug of Mumbai. The animals and birds look healthy and their enclosures are quite large unlike the cramped and smelly cages of the zoo in Mumbai.

 Among others, the zoo houses two magnificent tigers, a couple of leopards, wild boars, snakes and the Gaur, the state animal of Goa. There are well manicured lawns and fairly clean picnic areas. Tourist can spend the night in one of the many cottages and forest lodges in the sanctuary. Many large deer and friendly monkeys roam around freely, so don’t be surprised if one of them comes over to greet you.

By the time we got home that evening, I was absolutely exhausted and wanted nothing more than a nice, warm bath and my bed. All that was left for me to really complete my trip was to sit awhile at Colva Beach, another place that, for me, spells serenity. I did that the very next evening.

That was about all the exploring I could manage this time since I couldn't take more time off from work then. Have already begun working on a list of off-d-beaten-track places of Goa that I hope to explore the next time I feel the urge to escape the rush and grind of Mumbai.

Pics by Misha.

Two Beaches.......Goa.

It’s that time of the year when I get so overwhelmed with the rush of life and I simply had to have a break. At such times, nothing soothes my frayed nerves as much as a few days in Goa…the land of my ancestors…and of delicious seafood.

We had around four days to unwind in Goa before heading back to Mumbai. Although I have close to a hundred relatives living in Goa, we chose to book ourselves into a hotel close to Colva Beach. Graciano Cottages, a green-tiled, one-storied building offers basic comforts and is suitable for couples and tourists who plan on spending most of their time exploring the outdoors. The rooms are not ultra luxurious, but fairly comfortable with a cozy bed, air conditioning and the right amount of quiet and privacy. There is also an in-house restaurant, and although the staff is courteous, service is rather slow.

Like most tourists, we hired a car for the duration of our stay. Vehicles, both two-wheelers and four-wheelers are easily available from anywhere between 300-1000 Rs a day. One can avail of guided tours as well.

Colva Beach, famous for its soft, white sands, is just a two-minute walk from the hotel. Being an early riser I’d pick up a book and sit at the beach while the morning sun crept up behind me. Even in the wee hours of the morning there are quite a few people giving me company. There are bikini-clad tourists rubbing shoulders with locals in Indian beachwear that consists of saris and shalwaar suits.  There are little fishing boats on he shore while fishermen draw in their nets. 

The evening scene is entirely different. The many shops catering to tourists are brightly lit and little ice-cream carts dot the street leading to the beach. There are a number of restaurants at Colva Beach and although they do serve some vegetarian fare, it’s a total shame if one does not sample the delicious goan seafood that Goa is famous for. Many of these restaurants and shacks have live music and karaoke nights to entertain diners. So, great seafood, music and free flowing booze…..all of it adds up to a fun-filled evening. Calamari, Stuffed Squid, Beef Chilly and Masala fried Fish are the things to feast on. The local favorite – sausage bread- is also a must have when in Goa.

However, great food is available even in the cities and in the little, almost hidden by-lanes of Goan villages. In fact, I’d say these little two-table eateries serve the best food at the most pocket-friendly rates. It would do well to explore a little and stray off the beaten path.

Wanting to explore a little of the island of Divar, we drove to the city of Panjim and boarded a ferry towards Divar. The short ride for our vehicle and its three passengers cost us just ten rupees. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and were saddened to hear that the age old ferry system might be stopped in favor of bridges connecting the island to the mainland. Divar is like the only untainted and un-adulterated slice of Portuguese Goa. The quaint villas are nestled among trees and it’s a picture-perfect village. Locals sit in the veranda of their houses watching the world go by while others sit together in the churchyard and discuss whatever it is they have to discuss. Life seems so simple and easy-going here.

We took the ferry back to Old Goa and, stopping a while at St. Cajetan’s, we drove on towards the far north of Goa….Baga Beach.

Now, although the South of Goa has much to offer tourists in terms of food, beaches and the famous ‘sussegaad’ life, if you crave nightlife, crowded streets and other such entertainment, then head to the North. Calangute and its sister beach, Baga are the places you need to visit. Previously the haunts of foreign tourists, today, these places are famous even among Indian tourists. The streets are lined with night clubs, restaurants, tattoo parlors and bars. More often than not, the place is too crowded, especially in the evenings. If such revelry is what you seek, ensure that you stay at one of the many resorts and guesthouses along the beach itself. During peak season it is almost next to impossible to set foot here. Since the streets are extremely narrow be prepared to sit through hours of traffic moving at snail’s pace or, very often, not moving at all. To make the most of your stay, avoid traffic and get decent accommodation it’s advisable to get here at least a day or two earlier….especially for the New Year celebrations. Have fun, but do be careful. Whispered stories and cases of drugs and mafia matters are not uncommon here. Stay safe.

None of us are drawn by crowds, so we turned around and headed back towards the quiet South where we could breathe easy away from the sea of humanity that seemed to have landed at Baga that weekend. Dinner was at the Ritz, in Panjim and then, a long drive later, we hit the sack.

This little holiday was one we hadn't planned in advance, but it was fun, relaxing and just what we needed to refresh and rejuvenate ourselves. 

Sorry....no pics taken this time. Was too keen on soaking up the natural beauty...just couldn't get myself to spend the time peering through the viewfinder of my camera.

America.....two weeks of fun in the sun!

May 03, 2014.

We arrived at London’s Heathrow Airport about an hour ago and have another four hours before we board the next flight. At 2.30 this morning, we began our vacation by boarding a Virgin Atlantic headed for San Francisco with a stopover at London. It’s the very first time that we’re travelling by this particular airline. I must say it’s quite comfortable and so far, the journey has been a pleasant one….except for the horrid disinfectant they sprayed in the cabin just before take-off. I don’t remember this happening on any of my previous flights, but they announced that it was airline policy or something, but isn't it harmful? It irritated my throat long after take-off.

As always, I’d booked myself into a window seat and liked the view of England as we prepared for landing.  

Nearing London....

It was all shades of green dotted with pretty looking cottages and farms. No wonder the best poets and writers hailed from England! It’s 4^o C here and I’m glad we’re not leaving the airport this time although I do plan to visit England in the near future. For now, we’re just exploring the airport and the many stores it has to offer. I notice that there are many Indians here.

May 03, 2014….again.

This changing of time zones is rather confusing. I left Mumbai at 2.30 am today and there I was, almost 21 hours later, standing in San Francisco Airport at 16.30. 

San Franscisco...as seen from the aircraft.

The second part of our journey was also comfortable and the flight attendants were rather cheerful and seemed keen on ensuring that passengers on board kept eating. We and three others were the only Indians on board. On our arrival, I stood admiring what I could see of SF while hubby-dearest booked us on a Super Shuttle that would take us to our motel. Now, this Super Shuttle is a great way to travel around here. It’s cheaper than local cabs; prompt, comfortable and you can book online. Our driver was a friendly, young Chinese chap who kept chatting as he drove us to our destination. Along the way we saw what, to me, looked like a scene that had jumped out from the pages of a storybook.

Streets of SF

Pretty houses in neat little rows, flowers, clean streets, cotton-candy clouds and a clear, blue ocean in the distance. Every house had three garbage bins on the lawn outside…household waste, recyclables and other trash. What a great system! And the clouds were hanging low over the city....what a beautiful sight it was!
We had booked a room at America's Best Value Inn, a nice little motel close to Fisherman’s Wharf.

America's Best Value Inn

We checked-in, had a much needed bath and then stepped out for dinner. Unfortunately for us, SF seems to go to bed early. It’s only 21.30 and the best we could get were instant noodles. I’m wondering how we’re going to eat it….there isn’t any cutlery in the room.

P.S: Nothing was sprayed in the connecting flight (also Virgin Atlantic). Makes me wonder whether the disinfectant in our previous flight was meant for the cabin or the people inside it???

May 04, 2014.

We were up early today but the sun was up much before us. It’s only 19^o here and it’s beautiful. We had breakfast at a little deli across the street. People in America eat a lot of meat and when they say ham sandwiches, you can be sure to find a lot of ham stuffed between the bread. 

Bagel for Breakfast

Once we’d wiped our plates clean and the last of the coffee was drunk, we walked downhill towards Fisherman’s Wharf and I fell in love with the place. If you thought Fisherman’s Wharf was a smelly place with streets paved with fish and half-naked fishermen think again.

Towards the Wharf

It’s actually a long stretch with colorful shops on one side and the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean on the other. We sauntered around, browsing through shops and sniffing at the various aromas that floated around thanks to the many eating places that lay scattered around. I’d set my heart on trying the famous Clam Chowder and a tall pitcher of beer. But before we got to that, we took our time exploring the beauty of the Wharf. Lunch was at the Franciscan, a restaurant that offered a great view of the Wharf. I finally had my clam chowder. The chowder, also available in a tomato based sauce, is traditionally served in a sour dough bowl, but I declined that since most people seemed to eat the chowder and throw the bowls away. Now, the bowls are actual, edible bread, and it seems like such a waste to have then flung into bins. I opted for chowder in a ceramic bowl accompanied by slices of sour dough. And beer….glug glug!

Clam Chowder and Sour Dough

 It was here that hubby-dearest discovered root-beer and is now wondering where, in India, he might be able to purchase some.

Next, we took an hour-long ride aboard a Red & White ferry that goes all the way under the Golden gate bridge and around Alcatraz before heading back to the jetty. It’s a very enjoyable ride and also very informative if you listen carefully to the audio system provided by the ferry staff.

The Golden Gate bridge

Alcatraz

Later this evening, we rode the famous San Francisco tram towards China Town. Anyone visiting SF must hop onto the tram.

 It’s absolutely an experience in itself and cannot be expressed in words. The driver is very friendly and keeps talking to the passengers who are either seated in the cabin or standing on the footboard. That’s where I stood and when the driver seemed concerned about my safety, I assured him that I had plenty of experience since I’ve been a regular in the Mumbai trains.

 “People hold on to the posts in Mumbai trains?” a lady asked me with a look of shock.

 “In Mumbai trains, Ma’am, we hold on to whatever we can get our hands on” said I.

Oh, did you know? There's a street just a few blocks away from our motel, and it's called The Crookedest Street' because that's what it really is...the crookedest street ever! I think it's the crookedest street in the world, maybe and it's worth walking uphill to see this road as it winds downhill.

May 05, 2014.

This morning, we left for Davis, a quiet little university town about two hours drive from our motel.

En route, we stopped at Sausalito to enjoy an ice-cream and purchase a lifetime’s supply of salt water taffy in a variety of flavors.

We then took a refreshing walk in the Redwood Forest. It is quite a surprise that such a forest thrives so close to the city and the efforts made by the government to preserve the forest is commendable.

The Redwoods

We stopped for lunch at Super Duper Burgers and are spending the night at the home of relatives. Tomorrow, we leave for Los Angeles.

May 06, 2014.

Early this morning, we sat waiting at a very pretty train station in Davis.

Train station, Davis

We were taking the Amtrak to LA – a twelve hour ride along the coast. The Amtrak is unlike any other train I’ve ever seen. It’s a comfortable air-conditioned train with a separate compartment where passengers can sit and enjoy the view and two other coaches that serve as dining-cars.

The attendants guide you to your seats and regular announcements are made on the PA system announcing stations and meals. The staff is courteous, friendly and quite humorous. If only I’d recorded the announcements! They were extremely creative and funny. To cite an example, the person in charge of the snack bar kept reminding people to come down to the coach and buy their snacks. Finally when it was late afternoon, he was heard announcing, 

“Ladies and gentlemen, this is the last call for those who would like to come down here and get their hands on some bagels and hot coffee. I’ll be taking a short break now…..by short I actually mean a really long break so this is your last chance to grab a bite. Hurrrrrry down then, people!”

Add to that the excellent view of the ocean and rolling hills, and together, it all makes for an exciting train ride. 

May 07, 2014.

Hubby’s cousin took us sight-seeing today and I must say that LA is beautiful. Every house has a sculptured lawn and a huge backyard. 

The property rates here are extremely high, especially if one wishes to enjoy a clear view of the ocean. We followed a trail by the sea and enjoyed the view from atop a cliff.

Although there was a slight wind, it was extremely hot outside. The long walk had me sweating and hungry. So, for lunch, we tried the burgers at In and Out. This burger chain is quite popular for quick service and I’d say the taste isn’t too bad either. Just a suggestion, when you ask for fries, do ask the staff to serve it to you ‘jungle style’. Trust me, you won’t regret it. 

Post lunch, we visited the Getty Museum, that not only allows you to admire many works of art, but also offers a great view of LA. 

Although the tram ride up to the museum and the entry are free of charge, one does have to pay parking charges for ones vehicles. A wonderful thing happened while at the Getty. As we were admiring some works of art, i happened to hear the tune of the hindi song 'kabhi kabhi' (from Silsila). Naturally, since it is one of my favorite songs, I began humming along and looked around for the source of the sound. I was surprised to see it was a senior museum employee, an American, who was not only humming the tune but also sang it with perfect pronunciation and in tune. Wow!

Our next stop was the Pacific Park where we enjoyed some rides in the Ferris wheel and the Roller Coaster. 

We also won some prizes when we tried our luck at the gaming booths. All-in-all, it’s been a good day. Tomorrow we have a date with Mickey Mouse.

May 08, 2014.

Disneyland is so very crowded…..and it’s not even a weekend or a public holiday!

There is a wait of 25-50 minutes for each ride and that can be really tiring. We began with the Jungle Safari, 

visited the haunted mansion, then took a ride in and out of Splash Mountain and around Big Thunder Mountain. I guess what we enjoyed best here was Space Mountain. It is really, really fun! In the California Adventure section, we enjoyed the Hollywood Hotel and experienced an different view of the state in Soaring over California.

It’s been a long day and I could do with a good night’s sleep.

May 09, 2014.

Today we moved to the Palomar Hotel in Westwood. The room is somewhat expensive, but extremely comfortable, close to Westwood Village and well-linked to Hollywood, which is our next place to explore. For today, however, we took it easy and just ambled around Westwood Village which has plenty of options for shopping and dining. We did try the public transport system, and although it’s rather simple, we ended up going in the wrong direction and so had to be satisfied with a long ride all the way to Pacific Heights and back.

May 10, 2014.

It was a day spent along the Walk of Fame today. Hollywood is a buzz of activity, with look-a likes and costumed heroes fishing for photographs with tourists. There are stars on either side of the street…even Woody Woodpecker has a star to his name! People offering bus tours wait on every street corner, but one does not really need to take a bus. I’d suggest tours only for those interested in seeing where the stars live. It’s easy to find your way around if you can get hold of a good street map. Everything that’s interesting is spread out on either side of Hollywood Boulevard. 

We visited Mme Tussauds (entry $23 per person), The Ripley’s Museum ($17 per person) and the Chinese Theatre. It’s just nice walking down the street and watching the flurry of activity that goes on around here. We saw three Michael Jacksons, two puny Iron Men and even the Statue of Liberty posing with smiling tourists.

May 11, 2014.

The morning was spent at the LAX. Today, we flew United to the New York in the East Coast. Again, there’s a change in time zones and we lose time. We left after breakfast, reached New York for dinner and somewhere along the way, lunch was lost in transit. Weeks ago, we had logged-in to airbnb.com and had booked ourselves into a nice looking apartment that was just what we needed. Unable to find a Super Shuttle that was free, we had to take a cab to our hotel, which happened to be right in the middle of a Harlem neighborhood. Now, I’d been told that Harlem wasn't a very safe neighborhood and I was a little wary when we got out of the cab outside our apartment block. It was past sunset already and the streets were almost deserted save for a few guys in hooded tees standing at street corners. We hurried up to our room and were glad to see that it was a clean, well-kept place and much better and brighter than the photographs on the site. From the window, we get a nice view of the George Washington Bridge and the city spreading out into the distance. It reminds me of Mumbai.

While on the subway, I saw something that made me smile. Sitting beside me was a Hispanic lady and standing in front of her was her young son. He was exactly what they show on TV…multiple tattoos, pierced eyebrow and ears, braided locks and pants which hung ridiculously low on his hips. Soon, someone vacated a seat and he perched himself beside his mother. As I sat watching him from the corner of my eye, an old gentleman entered the coach and looked around for a seat. People ignored him and kept talking or reading while I wondered whether I should get up an offer my seat (when I did that in Italy, the old lady was offended). Even as I was considering getting up, the young, tattooed boy, at one glance from his mother, jumped up and offered his own seat with a smile. I could have hugged him then. This incident, and my pleasant experience living in NY taught me one important lesson….appearances can be deceptive.

May 12, 2014.

The morning sunshine brought with it a whole perspective. The streets weren't deserted anymore and the neighborhood was much more cheerful than it looked when shrouded in darkness. It wasn't bad after all. In fact, it was like walking down Colaba Causeway in Mumbai. The streets were lined with eating places, discount stores and super markets. As advertised on the site, the subway is just a block away from where we had set camp. Buying ourselves a metro card (around $2.50 per ride), we took Line 1 and, getting off at Penn Station, walked past Macy’s towards the Empire State Building. Although the Chrysler Building is much prettier and the One WTC is much taller, the 1472 ft tall Empire State Building is still a favorite with the tourists. 

There are two observation decks – the one on the 86^th floor is an open-air deck, while the one on the 102^nd floor is an enclosed space. Getting up to the observatory requires a ticket of 25$. This ticket and a free audio guide are available inside the building and security guards guide you to the observatory from where you get a good view of the city right from uptown Harlem to downtown Manhattan. From up there, it seems like a great distance from one end to the other, but we were to learn otherwise. Having heard that the ticket lines were extremely long, we were tempted to purchase a ticket form the bookies standing at various places outside and across the building (it costs around $2 more) but buying tickets from inside the building and getting to the observation deck took us not more than five minutes.

Next, we walked to the Grand Central Station and waited awhile to admire The Glory of Commerce, a monumental sculpture that adorns the façade of this breathtaking building.

  Inside, it is like a great ballroom with grand chandeliers and historic bars and restaurants. The vaulted ceiling depicts the nine constellations backwards. This was the painter’s idea as he wished to portray the stars as God sees them. We headed next towards the intersection of Broadway and Seventh Avenue, better known as Times Square which is lit up like a Christmas tree. 

Here, one can find many department stores that promise to empty the wallets and also many theaters where one can enjoy a musical. Here, too, as in Hollywood, Iron Man, Lady Liberty and Elmo willingly posed for pictures.

It’s been a long day and we’re tired. We haven’t planned anything for tomorrow yet.

May 13, 2014.

Today we took Line 1 all the way downtown and hopped aboard the Staten Island Ferry for a trip around the harbor. The 5.2 mile journey from Manhattan to the Staten Island neighborhood of St. George is a free-service and it’s quite the usual thing to see a horde of tourists lined up waiting for the ferry which departs every twenty minutes. Neither of us was too keen on going to Liberty Island or Ellis Island, and we were happy enough with the ride which provided us with a good view of Liberty Island and of the Manhattan skyline. 

Then, following our map, we walked towards the financial district and Wall Street with its famous Charging Bull which could hardly be seen thanks to the many tourists that surrounded it. We walked on, stopped at China Town for lunch and soon came to the Trinity Church which, at the time of its completion in 1846, was the city’s tallest building. The church has a very serene cemetery and an arresting stained glass window over the altar. After spending some time in the quiet of this magnificent church, we walked on towards the WTC Memorial pools, titled Reflecting Absence, or known more simply as the 9/11 Memorial. 

Entry to this memorial is free, and it is suggested that one should reserve a pass online in advance to avoid the crowds that visit this site. Online, in spite of being a free entry, one has to pay a small ‘donation’ of $2 per pass. If, like us, you do not book passes in advance, don’t worry, passes are available on site, for a compulsory donation of not less than $5 per pass. The pools constructed in the footprints of the original WTC buildings are massive and the names of all those who had lost their lives are inscribed on the boundary walls.

 That done, we headed past the Flatiron Building towards Union Square. The 20-storey Flatiron building, built in 1902 has a unique triangular shape and, until 1909, it held the title of being the world’s tallest building. 

Union Square is pretty, with little fountains and people playing chess under the shade of the many trees. There was also a mixed group of people of different race singing ‘Hare Rama, Hare Krishna’ to the accompaniment of Indian musical instruments.

We stood listening to them for a while and then walked on towards the Museum of Sex. For a ticket of around $17, tourists get to see a small exhibit of paintings, models of animals mating and a display that serves to glorify Linda Lovelace, the eternal porn star. There’s also a store where one might purchase some…er…toys, but I’d say the museum isn't quite worth the charge. If you skip this, you won’t miss anything. 

My feet are killing me right now, but it’s been a lovely day!

May 14, 2014.

It was another long walk today. We visited the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA. Entry, $25 per person) and spent a long time admiring the works of Picasso, Andy Warhol and Van Gogh, among others. Next, we walked all the way to Central Park and then proceeded to walk right across it from 59^th St to 110^th St.. This park, which comprises of more than 800 acres of meadows, ponds and woods, is said to be the lungs of the city and once we entered the park, it was very difficult to imagine that we were still in the city. 

Apart from cycling lanes and shady paths to walk or jog on, the park has seven water bodies, a castle, tennis courts, a baseball park, and twenty one playgrounds for children, a carousel, picnic areas and wide expanses of green grass and tall trees. If we had more time to spare, we’d have loved to spend an entire day just lying on the grass and enjoying the beauty around us. Unfortunately, we leave for Mumbai tomorrow and have to go and pack our stuff. So, we take our time walking across the park (approx’ 4 hours it took us) and then took the subway back to 181^st St. where we were staying.

May 15 -16, 2014.

We had booked Air India for our flights back to India as it was the only direct flight available. Travelling by Air India drove home the lesson that I shouldn't be quick to judge others when my own people were behaving like ill-mannered hulks. It is a proven fact that we Indians will be on our best behavior in the company of tourists or in a foreign country, but the moment we’re alone with our own kind, we forget even basic etiquette. The flight home was full of Indians, who were not only loud but also spent what seemed like hours in the restrooms totally unmindful of those waiting outside. Not only that, most of them left the place soiled and the basins clogged making the restrooms unfit for use. In front of me sat a teenage girl, in a high pitched voice trying endlessly to impress the boy seated beside her. To add to my woes, the entertainment service on board was not working so I had fourteen hours of doing nothing ahead of me. The stewardesses were rude and behaved more like archaic headmistresses with not a smile to spare. The stewards were far more polite and cheerful. Having nothing to do, I found the journey to be rather boring and was glad when we walked out of Mumbai airport.

This was a short but power-packed vacation and we left with the hope that we would someday return to explore more of the country.

P.S: If anyone’s planning to stay a-while in New York, the subway is by far the best way to travel within the city. Maps explaining the various routes and lines are available free of cost at any tourist information desk. Don’t let the many numbers and alphabets frighten you, once you get started, it’s all very simple. Just remember to save your Metro Card which is valid for a year. It can be refilled at any subway station and, if you do lose it and require a new card, it’ll cost you a dollar.

Pics' by Misha & Akshay