Visiting the Vikings : Part 1 - Stockholm, Sweden

Mumbai --> Stockholm (via Amsterdam) --> Gothenburg --> Bergen --> Stavanger 
--> Bergen --> Stockholm --> Mumbai (via Paris)

As you can see from our route plan, this particular trip had us hopping back and forth between cities. It looks complicated but it really wasn’t. In fact, it was very enjoyable and well worth all the months of planning. However, all that shuttling around makes it rather difficult for me to write this blog without confusing myself (and you), so here's presenting Visiting the Vikings - A Tale in Four Parts.

Part 1: Stockholm

Being afraid of heights, I didn’t get much sleep on the flight, but I did distract myself by watching Gone with the Wind and snacking on the most delicious slice of Dutch lemon cake I’ve ever eaten. Actually, it was the first ever slice of anything Dutch that I’ve eaten, but I’m sure it won’t be my last. 

The City of Stockholm

May 26 – 29 // June 4 – 6

Getting around: There are many ways of getting to Stockholm City from Arlanda Airport. There's the  Arlanda Express that gets you to the city center in 20 minutes and the comparatively cheaper Flygbussarna that winds through the city and reaches the city center about ten minutes slower. Both options are very convenient and comfortable. Once in the City Center, the best way to get around town is the Metro. We dropped in at the nearest one and bought ourselves a three-day travel pass that permits us to access the metro, the bus and the boats that ferry people from one little island to another. Trust me, getting a travel-pass is the smartest thing to do. Get that, save a pic' of the metro lines on your phone and you're all set. 

Accommodation: As always, we had booked our accommodation for Stockholm (and other places) through Airbnb. We've never had a bad experience before, but this particular place, at Fridhemsplan, advertised on  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1182616 turned out to be rather disappointing, especially after a 14 hour journey. Firstly, the place was nothing like the images posted on the site, the room was a mess and although check-in was sometime in the afternoon, we were asked to leave our bags and return after 6 pm, by which time the rooms would be tidied. These are the pics of the place as it was when we arrived 

Not a pretty sight, is it? Thankfully, we had just two nights to spend here, before moving on. The only only silver lining to this horribly dark cloud was the location. It's close to the metro station, bus stop and many restaurants and parks.

The next place we stayed in (also through Airbnb) was good, with a comfortable living space, clean kitchen and a helpful host. It's right outside the Sundysberg station and quite close to the city center. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/17903757  

Although we arrived here a little after midnight, the host kindly waited up for us and went to bed only after ensuring that we were familiar with the layout of the accommodation and were comfortable.

Most houses in Stockholm have a little balcony where people at enjoying a cup of coffee and a slice of spring sunshine. There were also many picnic tables where friends enjoyed a meal while something that smelled delicious was slowly grilling away on the barbecue close by.

Exploring Stockholm

The capital of Sweden comprises 14 islands connected by more than 50 bridges. . It’s an absolutely beautiful place and just had a kind of happy, feel good feeling all around.

That might have been because it was rather sunny for a couple of days with temperatures hitting up to 31^o, but all around us people were making the most of the unexpected Indian summer after a rather cold & dark winter. This was best seen in the parks.

 

 It was full of people having a picnic, sun-bathing in bikinis, walking their dogs, playing volleyball and simply enjoying being outdoors with all things that like the sun. There were ducks & geese & flowers by the water. The best thing about it all – there was not a single mobile phone in anyone’s hand. People were chatting with each other, really talking, and having fun together. Even the children. It was truly a warm, wonderful sight. 

The best place to enjoy the crowds while licking on an ice-cream cone is the beautiful Old Town, or Gamla Stan.

With its ancient cobbled streets and mostly ochre colored buildings, I found Gamla Stan to be fascinating in a lot many ways, especially since it still holds on to its medieval charm. Just walking on those cobbled streets was such a treat! Gamla Stan a popular touristy area and there’s so much to see there. We visited the Royal Palace and hung around to watch the parade and the changing of the guard.

We managed to squeeze through the jostling throng and get into the Stockholm Cathedral that has been standing on that very spot since the 13C and is filled with beautiful treasures like the statue of St. George slaying the dragon.  

  They were so many people out there, laughing and enjoying a drink or a meal at the many pretty little cafes and restaurants that seemed to line the streets.

Almost every ice-cream and waffle shop was crowded with people trying to decide between the many flavors available. 

Gamla Stan is a great place to spend a day and not get bored. As you walk along, head towards the boarding point for the ferry from Gamla Stan to Djurgarden. Keep an eye out for this chap above the doorway of Skeppsbron 44, in Gamla Stan. I didn't know about him, and happened to read about it just a few seconds before I stood on the pavement staring up at his twisted expression.

It's not just the  rage and despair on his face that is of interest. Look below his chin. See what he's crying over? Yes, that's exactly what it looks like. According to legend, a man named Carl Smitt found out that his wife was cheating on him and, in revenge, he had her genitalia sculpted and mounted on the wall. And as if that wasn't enough, it's said that the placement of the face is such that, when it rains, water will fall like tears from his eyes directly on to that which was no longer his. Weird way to get vengeance, but worth a look.

Once you've finished admiring the Cuckold of Skeppsbron, cross the street and hop on to the ferry (No.80) to Djurgarden. This island is just a few minutes away and is another fun place to spend the day.
We spend a couple of hours in Grona Lund, a popular amusement park with rides that looked so terrifying that I refused to get on to any of them. They spin, tumble and drop and my heard dropped to my toes just at the sight of them. I did gather the courage to go into the House of Nightmares only to get frightened, bump my head and rush out of the nearest exit almost in tears.

I preferred the nearby Vasa Museum, a museum built around a great warship that was pulled out from the depths of the water 333 years after she sank on her maiden voyage back in 1628. I wasn't sure what to expect as I stood at the entrance with my ticket in hand, but stepping in and seeing this massive ghost-ship looming in front of me was akin to stepping out of the subway in Rome and coming face-to-face with  the Coliseum. The exhibits on display speak of the history of the Vasa and put together the many fragments that try and explain the tragedy that befell the ship and her sailors. 

Another interesting museum to visit is the Vikingaliv, a museum dedicated to bringing alive the history of the Vikings. This is done through a well-planned series of interactive exhibits on one level and, a fabulous 11 minute ride that lets you experience Ragnfrid's Saga. 

This chap is a  bona fide Viking, replicated with the help of DNA technology from archaeological finds. He looks so very life-like, I used a zoom lens to get a good look at him. I couldn't shake of the feeling that he was one of those guys who stands in one position for long and then, just when you're convinced he's a statue, he pounces on you with a loud shriek. 

Meals:

When travelling, we make it a point not to eat what we usually do. We always sample the local fare,  only occasionally entering a Burger King or McDonald's. While at Stockholm, however, we only visited a McDonald's once. For the better part of our stay in the city we feasted on hot dogs, burgers at Gamla Stan, yummy Chinese fare at  Hangchow (Fridhemsplan). Swedish people are extremely friendly and helpful. We were studying the menu & trying to decide on what to order when a lady came up to us and suggested we order a particular item that turned out to be so delicious that we had dinner at Hangchow's twice. 

Of, course there were also the many ice-creams.and the traditional Swedish Meatballs and Beef Rydberg at Tradition, in Gamla Stan. (image below)

What we most enjoyed was the Swedish fika which is basically coffee and a bun, Swedish style. For this, our chosen hangout was Fabrique, right outside Fridhemsplan station. This place serves the best cinnamon & walnut buns I've ever eaten. (image below)

Yes, we ate all that....and more! Much more :-)

A very popular place to just sit, sip on coffee and watch the world go by is the Espresso House that you will find scattered all across Sweden & Norway. The coffee is excellent and the ambiance even more so. 

The outlet right in the middle of Gamla Stan's busy shopping street is by far the best. We'd buy a coffee and spend a good hour and a half watching tourists pass by or stop at the many souvenir shops that one can find all around Gamla Stan.

A few words before we move on..... Our short, but enjoyable visit to Stockholm was great! The weather did, however, play a few tricks on us. One day it was a pleasant 20 degrees , the next it shot up to a sweltering 31 , and then, when I finally took off my sweater and scarf, it dropped down to a freezing 8. Brrrrrr!  

Now, before you accompany me to my next destination, let me say that I loved Stockholm with it's friendly people, great food and, of course, the absolutely picturesque Gamla Stan. Being there, walking along the narrow, cobbled streets lined with shops displaying their colorful wares and the many restaurants...that was an experience in itself. You simply must go there and feel the magic for your self. But for now, let's move on to our next destination - Gothenburg.

Pics by Misha

A Morning at Alibaug - An Unplanned Adventure

"Not all those who wander are lost." - J. R. R. Tolkien

Just last evening, my friend Candy and I decided that we should take ourselves for a little picnic not very far from Mumbai. So, after not much thought or planning, we zeroed in on Mandwa, a little village in the Raigad district of Maharashtra. And, here's how we spent our Sunday morning.

5.40 : We met at Bandra Station and boarded the 5.55 train to Churchgate. Winter's finally moving out of the city, but the mornings are still very pleasant. Good for us!

6.30 : We hail a cab to the famous tourist attraction of our city - the Gateway of India, and we book two tickets to Mandwa. 

(Note: the fare includes the ferry service and a bus service from Mandwa Jetty to Alibaug.)

The Ferries at the Gateway of India

6.40 : We board the ferry and rush to the Upper Deck. This is the best place to be in if you really want to enjoy the ride. I take in the sight of the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Hotel that, to me, look absolutely 'wow' in the early morning light.

6.50 : Our ferry moves away from the pier and heads off into the beautiful sunrise. The ride to Mandwa takes close to an hour, but it was an hour spent enjoying the cool sea-breeze and watching the many yachts, fishing boats and cargo ships sail by. 

Candy was quite wary of the many seagulls that fly close, following the ferry. It's very common for passengers to toss out little tit-bits (mainly chips) at the seagulls. The birds seem to enjoy potato chips a lot. They're not shy and even swoop down to snatch out a tit-bit from hands held out in eager offering. 

8.00 :  We arrive at Mandwa Jetty and walk out along the jetty towards the broadwalk. There are many little snack-shops and Souvenir shops on either side, but being quite early (and a Sunday) most of the establishments were still shut, and, save for our fellow passengers, the place was deserted.

Mandwa Jetty

Mandwa Beach

Now, remember, I did mention that this was a totally unplanned trip. We had no idea where we were headed or what we wanted to do now that we were here. We followed the crowd and hopped into a bus to Alibaug, a coastal town and the district headquarters of Raigad. 

Again, we had no idea where to alight and what really to do at Alibaug. So there we sat, two silly women with neither map nor plan, out on a Sunday morning, headed into.....what??? Well, we didn't know and, at that moment, we didn't care. We decided to continue until the last stop and take it from there. Until then, we enjoyed the bus ride and the sights of little villages passing by. 

8.30 : We alight at a fairly busy junction at Alibaug - the last stop, and look around for a place to grab some breakfast. A little place around the corner was dishing out some yummy 'misal pav' (a spicy, local favorite made of pulses, potato and served with bread). Having done that, we walked around looking for a booking office to check about the timings for the bus & ferry back to Mumbai. We got the information we needed & were informed that tickets for the bus+ferry could be purchased about an hour before the departure time. 

9.00 : We decided that a good thing to do would be to hang around at the beach, so we hailed an auto-rickshaw to take us to Alibaug Beach. In less than 10 minutes, winding along quiet streets, we arrived at our destination. The beach was very sparsely populated at this hour. 

The only people there were a few local tourists and the chaps offering such activities as parasailing, jet-skiing and boat rides to the nearby Kolaba Fort. We chose to do the latter and set sail for the fort. since it was low tide, some chaps were wading through the water and making their way to the fort. Although, on a day like this, such a feat is possible, it is highly dangerous to do so as the tide is likely to come rushing in unannounced. And then where would that leave you?!! Be smart. Take the boat. 

Kolaba Fort is an old military fortification built in the sea around 1-2 kms from the shores of Alibaug. From a distance, it looks almost similar to the  Janjira Fort, but it's much smaller. Although most the outer walls are still standing strong, there are many ruined structures within the fort - houses, granaries etc. There are also people who live within its ancient stone walls. They help care for the this little slice of history and maintain the temples that are within the fort. The views from here are quite serene and peaceful. Walking around this fort, we could almost imagine how it must have been in its heydays....with lamps lit beside the temple walls and homes & streets filled with people going about their daily business of life while armored soldiers stood guard at the many lookout points.

We walked along the entire perimeter and stopped to click a few pictures every once in a while. Once we had explored the all that the fort had to offer, we headed back down towards the entrance and took the boat back to Alibagh Beach.

11.15 : Back at Alibaug Beach, we saunter into the well-maintained picnic area to visit the restrooms before heading back to the bus stand. We stopped for a few minutes to purchase lemon flavored ice golas, a treat very similar to the snow cones. Yummy!

11.30 : I must say that the bus service is very well planned in Alibaug. People queued up & boarded the bus in an orderly manner. At exactly 11.45, the bus left for Mandwa Jetty.

12.15 : We were back in the ferry. This time, wanting to avoid the mildly scorching sun, we decided to stay on the lower deck and found ourselves a really good spot to sit. Once again, we were bobbing along on the water, watching ships sail by while seagulls flew all around in the hope of grabbing a tit-bit or two. Although it was quite sunny, we did enjoy ourselves immensely on the way back on account of the cool breeze and, of course, the satisfied feeling of having spent a most enjoyable morning.

13.15 : We were back at the Gateway of India. Under the glare of the afternoon sun, the scene looked much different from what it did at dawn. Also, the place was now teeming with tourists and cabs all around. It made us realize that our little excursion, even though it was an impulsive one, was one that turned our perfect w.r.t timing. We managed to skip the crowds, escape the sun and caught a glorious sunrise. Truly, sometimes the unplanned moments make the best stories.

14.02 : Two tired, but happy girls were back in the local train, headed home after a morning well-spent. We were glad to have made this little excursion possible and even happier that we had managed to fill one morning with so many activities. 

An unplanned trip...but these two adventurers....they were happy!

Pics by Misha