Hello Himachal!

McLeodganj .... Manali .... Shimla

It’s summer again…and it’s that time of the year when I get out my backpack and sneakers. This year, we decided to go up North and explore what we could of Himachal Pradesh (the name literally means in the lap of the Himalayas.)

This picturesque state is full of scenic beauty…snow capped mountains, perennial rivers and a wide variety of flora and fauna. The month of May is a good time to visit Himachal since it provides much needed respite from the scorching heat of Mumbai (that’s where I hail from). Even though it’s summer, in Himachal it’s cool enough to wear sweaters and ear-muffs.

As always, being not at all in favour of guided tours, we chalked up a plan of action and began on the first leg of our journey…Mumbai to McLeodganj. I must admit it turned out to be a very, very long leg. To start off, we flew Air India to New Delhi. 

Delhi train Station

Compared to the last, terrible experience with the airline, this time around things were so much better. In fact, I have nothing to complain about. The flight attendants were pleasant and polite and the flight was perfectly on schedule. Air India gets a pat on the back from me….pat pat pat!

So, AI got us safely to New Delhi from where we took a pre-paid cab to Old Delhi railway station and followed it with a very comfortable, nine hour journey to Amb, a pocket sized station that seemed to have popped out from a storybook. The platform is about a 100 mtrs long, white-washed and almost empty. One needs to hire one of the many private taxis that lie in wait a few meters away. They drop you at the local bus-stand or drive you to your destination, all for a price. Haggle a little, but not too much. People in Himachal, we have learned, are simple, hard-working and downright honest. In fact, we were so touched by their honesty and simplicity that we decided not to haggle with any of the locals for the entire duration of the trip.

Although travelling by the local bus is comfortable and cheap, we decided to employ the services of one Honey Sharma, a decent young chap who drove us all the way to Kangra from where we took a local bus to Dharamshala (fare, Rs. 50 for two passengers). Just before we arrived at Kangra bus stand, we paid a visit to the beautiful and well-maintained Kangra Fort. 

Kangra Fort

Now under the care of the Archaeological Board, the fort is still in good condition and some of the temples within the fort are still frequented by worshippers and newly-weds.

It was at the Kangra bus-stand that I got my first ever glimpse of snow-capped mountains. Travelling by bus is a great way to learn more about a place….its people, its culture and its scenic beauty. 

Inside a local bus

The bus wound its way along the narrow streets and mountain paths, passing colourful market places and quaint villages. The bubbling of the river was mirrored in the sing-song manner of speaking that is so typical of the north. They speak mostly Hindi, but, oh, how sweet it sounds! It’s so unlike the crude and harsh version one hears in Mumbai. Throughout our journey in Himachal Pradesh, people have been nothing but polite, courteous and generous. I am in absolute awe of the people of Himachal Pradesh, and it is the people that I remember most whenever I think of Himachal.

There’ll be more about the people as I go along, but let me continue from where I was…in a bus on my way to Dharamshala. Another 30 rupees took us further to our 1^st destination, McLeodganj (finally!).

 

McLeodganj - main street

A heavenly slice of Tibet…that’s the metaphor that came to mind the moment I set foot in McLeodganj. Am trying to find the words to best describe McLeodganj, but all I can say is I am speechless. All I can say now is that it seemed to me as if I had stepped into a foreign, fairy-tale land…with colourful Tibetan flags strung on rooftops, narrow, crowded streets and Buddhist monks weaving their way around the tourists. This little town was named after Sir Donald Friell McLeod, a lieutenant Governor General of Punjab. 

The Dauladhar range

It is situated on the Dauladhar Range of mountains and is the home of the Government of Tibet in exile since 1960. This little town is shelter to many Tibetans and also the official residence of the Dalai Lama.

Dropping our bags at The Bhagsu, an HPTDC run establishment, we wandered out to explore what Mcleodganj has to offer. Here’s what we found during our two-day sojourn;

ü  It’s beautiful! Yes, the streets are crowded with vehicles trying to make their way through, it’s also not very clean (w.r.t garbage disposal), but it does have a certain charm that winds itself around you.

ü  It offers many options for eating and drinking. The best for us was CoffeeMeal. Located in the lane behind the popular McLlo Restaurant, Coffemeal serves some of the best coffee and snacks at affordable prices. 

Coffeemeal

Golden Flower at Coffeemeal

     The interior is cozy and the ambiance is wonderfully warm and friendly. A great place to spend time alone or with friends. Another good place to dine is Tibet’s Kitchen, just a few doors to the right of Coffemeal. Delicious fare at great prices. 

Street food - momos

ü  Shoppers can browse through the numerous shops and stalls selling everything from Tibetan jewelry, woolen wear and Tibetan handicrafts. I purchased a pair of ear rings that resembled Buddhist prayer wheels.

Tempest Apple Cider

If you’re not up to walking uphill & downhill for a good hour or two, I suggest you do what we did and take a cab from the local booking office. It’s convenient and cheap. We made just two trips around McLeodganj, one to the church of St. John of the Wilderness, and the other to catch a glorious sunset at Naddi.

Built in 1852 at Forsyth Ganj en route to McLeodganj, the Church of St. John of the Wilderness, famous for its Belgian stained glass windows, is dedicated to John the Baptist. The church is not only the resting place for many of the victims of the 1902 earthquake, but also of James Bruce, the 8^th earl of Elgin, Viceroy of India (1862-63).

Towards John of the Wilderness

Here lies James Bruce, the 8th Earl of Elgin.

Naddi, about half an hour away from McLeodganj, is by far the best place to catch the sunset. Get here early and tuck into a plate of steaming Maggi noodles and peer through a telescope to get a close-up view of the glacier and the trekking base camp on the distant Dauladhar range. 

Sunset at Naddi

That done, set up your camera, hug your sweetheart and watch the sun as it makes its descent behind the mountains.

 OFF TO MANALI 

Having spent two lovely days at McLeodganj, we took the early morning bus to our next destination, Manali. It’s close to a seven hour long ride, but not an uncomfortable one. The bus stops at regular intervals for breakfast, lunch and evening tea, so passengers can get off and stretch their limbs. The best views are once the bus gets closer to Manali. You have the snow-capped mountains looming in the distance and the river Beas gurgling by alongside the road. 

Although we’re still in Himachal Pradesh, the vista here is very different from the one offered by McLeodganj and Dharamshala. Here, houses are made of wood and stone, with bright red or green roof tops, very unlike the slate rooftops of Dharamshala and Amb. People here seem rather poor, but there’s a feeling of contentment and happiness that is prevalent everywhere. It is impossible to miss this happy-feeling as it kisses your face in the breeze. Thus, after a long and pleasant journey the bus finally stops at the Manali bus-stand, a bustling spot right on the famous Mall.

Manali Bus stand

Tava Paneer at the Bus stand

That’s what it’s called – The Mall. It’s a wide, paved promenade that is serves as the hub of all activity in Manali. It’s bright, loud and delightful. With innumerable restaurants and shops, The Mall has a very touristy feel to it. We were put up at Hotel Kunzum, which is right which is located along The Mall. The rooms are airy, bright and well-heated.  Our room looked straight out at the busy promenade.

The Mall at Manali

We spent the first evening walking around the Mall and browsing through the many interesting items the stores had to offer. We purchased some gloves and caps since Manali was much cooler than we expected.

The next morning, we had hoped to go to Rohtang, but since it was still snow bound, we could only go up to a certain Snow Point where there was less snow and more sludge. 

Snow Point

Still, clad in our borrowed snow suits and boots, we did played awhile in the little snow that was available and then rode ponies all the way to the base where our cab waited to take us to Solang Valley which lies 14km to the north-west of manali on the way to the Rohtang pass. A popular ski resort in winter, this place offers visitors horse riding, paragliding and zorbing during the summer months. 

Solang Valley

Now, I’d seen many interesting pictures depicting people paragliding, skiing and generally having fun on the lush green hillside, but what I saw when I actually got there was a major disappointment. I suppose it would be better to visit Solang during winter when the mountains are shrouded in snow.

Lunch was at Chopsticks, a popular option with most tourists. It offers Chinese & Tibetan fare and cold beer as well. Best item on the menu - Trout n Chips.

Post lunch, we visited the Himalayan Nynmapa Buddhist Temple that is a rather small temple complex, but still retains the sense of calm that is omnipresent in Buddhist monasteries. Photography is permitted at the meager sum of Rs. 20 which goes towards the maintenance and restoration of the temple. Inside, the paintings on the walls and the panels is quite impressive. The sanctuary is dominated by a tall golden statue of the Buddha. Impressive! 

We next visited the Hadimba Temple, dedicated to the Goddess Hadimba who is said to have meditated here, at that very spot. Born in a Rakshasha family, Hadimba was the wife of the mighty Pandava warrior, Bheema. This temple, built around 1553, has intricately carved wooden doors and a three square-roofed tower that rises for approx’ 24 meters. The walls are covered with carvings and horns of bulls. Animal sacrifices are carried out here as part of the celebrations of the Dhungri Mela. 

A few meters away from the Hadimba Temple, is the temple dedicated to her son, Gatotkacha, who, the epic says, played a major role in securing the victory of the Pandavas over the Kauravas. Gatotkacha is worshipped in the form of a sacred tree.

OFF TO SHIMLA

Two days in Manali and then began the last part of our journey…Manali to Shimla. The journey takes you away from the snow, higher and higher around rather brown and dry mountains. So different from the first two places we had visited my first view of Shimla from across the mountain made us think of a rash on the mountainside. 

It’s crowded, with large clumps of hotels and residences spread all over. I wasn’t sure I’d like it at all, or maybe it was just that I was tired after the long, uninteresting bus ride. After checking in at Hotel SukhSagar, we very unwisely decided to venture out and explore Mall Road, which is said to be the most happening place in Shimla. Getting there meant trudging up an extremely steep incline for what seemed like half an hour, and then walking uphill until we got to Mall Road. To our surprise, it was only 9pm and shops were already shut for the day and the street was almost deserted. It was unexpected since a popular travel journal stated that Mall Road is buzzing with activity until almost 11pm. We opted for Dominos Pizza which was the only store open, and headed back to the hotel. I must mention that the Pizzas here are different, but they’re much better, with generous amount of toppings.

The next morning, we walked almost 2kms to take the lift to Mall Road. This walk is long but easier on the legs since it isn’t uphill. Shimla, once the summer capital of the British, still holds on to its colonial charm…in architecture and in manner. Most of Shimla needs to be explored on foot, and just when you think you’ve reached high enough, you realize there’s still another flight of stairs top climb. That, I think, is the most painful part of the experience for me. I have city legs and they are not used to this much exercise.

 But I was forced to stop complaining when I saw the many porters, some very young, most very old, bent double under the weight of a heavy load of everything from luggage, to refrigerators to piles and piles of chinaware. All for a mere 50 or 100 rupees! It was heartbreaking to see the poor men making their way uphill and climbing stairs with all that weight on their backs. 

What bothered me was the fact that no one even minded them. No one seemed to think it was inhuman to burden a poor man so. Yes, they are poor and trying to earn an honest living, but like this??? In spite of the obvious misery, what is commendable is the self-respect and dignity with which these poor, hard-working people live their lives. They choose back-breaking labour over unemployment and begging.

There are two main points of interest for tourists to lounge about while in Shimla, the Ridge and Mall Rd. Various government functions, festivals and Fairs are held here. 

Built in 1857, Christ Church is a prominent landmark of Shimla. It contains beautiful stained glass windows and one of the biggest pipe organs in the Indian Subcontinent. What I liked best were the many memorials to loved ones long gone. 

Located just below the Ridge, Mall Road is like the main street of Shimla. The important buildings such as the police station and fire department are situated here. There are numerous eating houses and stores all along Mall Rd. Vehicles of any kind are not permitted on this road, thus it’s very common to see tourists strolling about leisurely along Mall Rd. Once can find almost everything on Mall Road….local shops stand shoulder-to-shoulder with large ‘brands’. 

That afternoon we stopped for some delicious mutton biryani at Devicos and then took a cab to then Jakhoo Temple.

This temple is famous for the world’s tallest statue of Lord Hanuman, which stands at a height of 108 feet. It is largely believed that it was here that Hanuman stopped to rest while on his quest for the Sanjeevani medicine. Like most hanuman temples, this one too is graced with the presence of innumerable monkeys. Visitors are warned to put away cameras, sunglasses and any such items, for the monkeys are a rather curious bunch and do not hesitate to make a grab for whatever might catch their fancy. 

For dinner, I’d like to recommend Dim Sum, a small eatery right beside Dominos on Mall Rd. For a very reasonable price, they serve large portions of delicious Chinese food. The place is almost always packed, but it’s worth the wait.

The next morning, we hired a taxi and made a stop at the Vaishnodevi Goofa (Cave) Temple. Like almost everything else in Shimla, this temple, too, is located at the top of a flight of stairs. The main shrine is deep inside a cave. Once again, photography is not permitted inside the temple, but walking into the cool cave and finally seeing the little shrine with numerous bells hung above the deity is something you mustn’t miss. There’s a sense of quiet that one feels inside that cave where a solitary pujari/priest sits chanting prayers that echo all around. 

Not very far from the cave temple, is the Sankatmochan Temple, another serene place that deserves a visit. 

Next up, my favourite - the Viceregal Lodge. Once the residence of the Viceroy of India and the summer home of the President of India, the lodge is now the property of the Indian Institute for Advanced Studies. The Viceregal Lodge was designed by British architect Henry Irvin  during the regime of Lord Dufferin. Its construction started in 1880 and was completed in 1888. Also known later as Rashtrapati Nivas, it served as a summer get-a-way for the President of India who visited the Lodge for not more than 15 days a year. 

The Lodge was later handed to the IIAS that now uses the facility for post-doctorate scholars who are doing independent research in the Arts & Social Sciences. What was once the ballroom and dining area is today the library. As the upper storey are used by the IIAS, guided tours are carried out only through three rooms on the ground floor and the breathtakingly beautiful parlor that is made entirely of Burma teak. The walls of the rooms are lined with pre-independence and post independence photographs of all the political goings-on at he Lodge, Being a teacher of History by profession, I found these most interesting, but was disappointed that photography is not permitted inside this magnificent building.

With that, we came to the end of our adventures in Himachal and prepared to head back home. If one has time to spare, it would be fun taking the toy-train from Shimla to Kalka. It takes around seven hours to get to Kalka by train, but we’ve heard that it’s an enjoyable ride. We, however, had miscalculated the time and had to cancel our train tickets and board yet another bus that took us all the way from Shimla to Delhi, via Chandigarh. Now, it’s not super cool in Shimla, but it was pleasant. Chandigarh was like sitting in front of a roaring furnace and Delhi was like sitting in the furnace. Summers in Delhi are terribly hot with temperatures rising well above 42^oC. Braving the cruel sun, we took an auto from the pre-paid stand and headed straight for the cool confines of the airport. A word of advice – always opt for the pre-paid taxi/auto services while in Delhi. It’s cheaper and it prevents you from getting fleeced by the local drivers.

Question: what did we get back from this particular holiday?

Well, apart from a bag full of winter wear, I’d say we carried with us a deep respect and appreciation for the people of Himachal Pradesh. It was truly refreshing and heartwarming to interact with people who were simple, warm, hard-working and ever so polite in speech and manner. It’s something we who live in cities seem to lack. Yes, Himachal is a beautiful state, but, according to me, its true beauty lies in its people. 

A Foggy Weekend at Mahabaleshwar

This in one post that has been long overdue as this particular doctor’s visit to Mahabaleshwar was undertaken sometime in August. My brother and I suddenly came up with the idea of getting out for the weekend and in less than 24 hours we were driving out towards Mahabaleshwar. Yes, I have been here before and there’s already a post about this quaint hill station, but our experience this time was totally unexpected and absolutely awesome! Quite a few firsts for me this time….

To begin with, it was my first experience of driving along the Expressway and having my car tyre go BLAM! Avoiding the cars zipping by, we slowly maneuvered to the side of the road and looked around for someone who could fix the damage. You might say we were lucky to stop right outside some kind on industrial site where two employees were chatting right by the gate. Seeing we were in a spot, they rushed to our aid and after checking the most definitely deceased tyre, asked us if we had a spare. We did, but that one was almost flat itself. Still, it managed to get us to the Food Mall 7 kms away.

That’s where I first got to see how a car tyre is fixed. I know nothing about cars so I can’t really explain it well enough, but I was fascinated by that machine that pops out the tyre and then fits one on again…with a little popping sound.

Having got the car back in action, we continued the long drive towards Mahabaleshwar. There’s something about the place we quite like. It’s changed since the years it functioned as the summer getaway for the British, but it has still managed to hold on to its old world charm. Driving past the busy little town of Panchgani, we stopped at Mapro gardens for lunch. Mum, who was visiting Mahabaleshwar for the first time quite liked the place although she found it a little chilly. We feasted on pizzas and some potato soup, clicked a few pictures, purchased an armful of Mapro products and then continued our journey. Oh, and this was about the first time I didn’t click any pictures along the way…which is why I’m having to make do with the squiggles and doodles that are gracing this particular write-up. But don’t worry, my trusty camera did find some use later.

The weather got cooler as we entered Mahabaleshwar. To our surprise, almost all the houses and buildings were covered from roof to floor with sheets of plastic, palm leaves and cane mats. 

The Town Square

Seemed a little eerie at first….until we turned into the lane leading to the MTDC Resort. The entire tree-lined lane was hidden by a dense fog…the first I’d ever seen or experienced. It was just around 2 in the afternoon, but as dark as after sundown already.

We first catch sight of the fog

At once, we jumped out of the car to see what a fog felt like. Mum stayed put in the car and it was quite a task to get her to step out. You see, mum watches too much of those creepy crime shows so she now expects murderers and villains everywhere. She kept urging us to get back in the car before, I quote, ‘someone steps out of the fog, murders us and throws us by the side of the road.’

Driving out at night

The rooms at MTDC were wonderfully large, but miserably damp and musty. Apparently, that’s the reason why everyone here covers their homes with plastic during the monsoons. It’s to keep the fog from entering the houses and ruining the walls and the furniture. So, for around four long months the houses stay covered. Hubby and I like peace and quiet, so we booked two cottages away from the reception and dining area. Everything looked like a scene straight out of a Bollywood-style horror flick.

Towards our cottage

Our cottage.

Mum, with her over-imaginative mind bundled herself up into bed and kept her ears out for any suspicious sound that broke through the cold and silence. When we stepped out to explore Bombay Point which was the closest to where we were staying, we were thrilled to find it absolutely deserted. The last time I’d been there, it was crowded and loud. Tourists chatted loudly; horses trotted about with children on their backs, food stalls were doing great business. Today, it was like the ghost towns we read about in old westerns. The fog was so dense; we couldn't see more than a few meters ahead of us. Every little sound was magnified in the eerie silence and, (this time I had to agree with mum) the sounds seemed to get closer and closer. Mum, bro and I huddled up together in the gazebo while my adventurous husband decided to explore and click some snaps. I was secretly quite relieved when he returned and we drove back into town.

Under the Gazebo

Again, the streets were almost deserted, although some tourists ambled around and made their purchases at the few shops that were open for business. Having not much to do, we drove down to Old Mahabaleshwar and sat awhile at the ancient Panchganga Temple where the stones under your feet are always cool even in the hot Indian summers. Since it began to rain just as we stepped out, we stopped at a tea stall and sipped on some steaming hot tea and coffee.

Chai

I sat watching a senior gentleman dressed in kurta-pajama, vest, scarf and skull cap as he took a small bunch of tourists around the temple complex and told them about its history and architecture. I had to smile. ‘Here is a beautiful and simple example of the ‘unity in diversity’ we talk about in India’, I said to myself.

Early the next morning, bro and I went for a nice, hour long Ayurvedic massage while mum stayed back with the assurance that her brave son-in-law was asleep in the adjoining cottage and would rush to her rescue in the event that some murderous villain decided to attack her. After breakfast at the Resort cafe, we decided to brave the fog and drive around to see what we could of some of the popular points.

Exploring Mahabaleshwar on foot

Driving through the fog was an entirely surreal experience especially because it held an element of risk and danger. Where we could admire the valleys far below, this time all we could see was fog, fog and fog for as far as the eyes could see. It was so cold, why; there was frost even on my brother’s eyelashes!

Jack Frost

Driving back towards Mumbai, we stopped once again at Mapro Gardens for a bite and then sat chatting about how wonderful the fog was. Mum was the happiest to get out of Mahabaleshwar even though (as she admitted much later) she did enjoy the trip. She’s more of a summer creature and prefers the sun and crowds of noisy people for company. We asked her if she’d like to visit the place in December. Her answer was silence accompanied by a stern glare in our direction.

The rest of us are keen to return during the next monsoon season for we had great fun and enjoyed our selves tremendously. 

Pics by Misha & Akshay

Exploring Goa....again!

After a hectic few months at work this particular visit to Goa was exactly what I needed to unwind. This time, unlike many times before, we actually managed to get train tickets and spent close to 12 hours aboard the Mandovi Express that leaves from CST (formerly VT) at 7.15 am. The journey was long and uneventful but the changing view outside the window was quite refreshing, as were the many snacks sold aboard the train. 

Personally, I usually prefer to travel by the Konkan Kanya Express that leaves close to 11 pm. Since it’s a night train, the length of the journey doesn't seem too tedious. And, best of all, being an early riser, I thoroughly enjoy the sights of Goa that begin to grow visible with the dawn. Those early hours of gazing at the coconut and cashew trees, whitewashed churches and tiled roofs never fail to fill me with an inner peace and a sense of being home. The more familiar the sights the happier and lighter I feel. Unfortunately, by the time the Mandovi Express choo-choos into Goa, it’s nearing sunset and not much is visible outside.

On reaching Margao a little after 9 pm. we were met by two of my favorite people with whom we headed straight for a rustic little restaurant called Durigo and feasted on yummy Goan delicacies of pork amsol, squid butter-garlic, sorpatel and sannas. Durigo, like many other goan restaurants, is a family-run establishment with a regular Portuguese style villa in front and the restaurant in a shed at the back. The food here is fairly good, but the portions are extremely small. Having filled our bellies, we headed home and crashed into bed.

Early next morning, after meeting family and exchanging hugs and hellos, we rode our bikes towards Netravalli, a remote, little village around 2 hours away from Margao, I think. It's an easy route to follow thanks to the many signboards pointing the way. The road is narrow and in extremely good condition.

For most part, the route took us through open fields and what looked like forests. It was an extremely pleasant ride, especially when travelled by bike. The weather was absolutely perfect for the long, long ride. We made just two stops en route...one for a cup of tea and the other to stock up on beer and rum, for no picnic in Goa is complete without 'fuel'. 

Once we got to our destination, chewing on sugarcane stolen from the fields that lined the road, we parked our vehicles and began a 30-45 minute walk through the forest alongside a river that although almost dry now, is flooded during the monsoons.

Thus, clambering over boulders, wading through forest streams and climbing over fallen trees we finally found what we had come in search of, the waterfall.  

Apart from us and another small group of boys there was absolutely no one else in that wonderfully shaded slice of Heaven. Soon, stripping down to our swimwear, some of us dived into the ice-cold pool and spent a good time swimming and splashing about before heading back the way we had come. Along the way we spotted some snakes that watched us from their throne around the gnarled trees.

Around 10 minutes away is a little village where we had asked for lunch to be prepared at one of the street-side restaurants. Gurukrupa Hotel is more like a shack by the beach actually and doubles up as a grocery store for the village. There are just two simple tables that seat a total of eight people, which was just right for us. The meal served was simple, yet wholesome - rice, fish curry, salad, cluster beans, pickle, fried fish and sol-kadi (a delicious beverage made with kokum, water, chilies and coriander). Having licked our platters clean we rode back towards home.

Somewhere along the way we took a detour and went to explore what's left of some ancient rock sculptures. They're a series of abstract and random figures that have been carved into the rock surface at our feet.

They depict animals, human figures and geometric shapes. Right across this spot is a Kushavati Spice Plantation (contact: 8806329311) that caters to many tourists. The farm is full of betel nut trees and various other spice trees and bushes. Visitors can also stay here although one has to book much in advance. One can also purchase honey and various spices.

The next afternoon, our group (with a few more members) drove three hours towards the north of Goa to spend the night at Raut Farms, at Sal- Goa (contact: 9420818646), a remote yet pretty farm somewhere on the border between Goa and Maharashtra.

The rooms here are clean, large and airy, and, thankfully, lack the presence of the idiot box. There’s a large, well-kept lawn where the boys played a game of football and two little swimming pools for those who’d like to take a dip. Apart from this, there are many fruit trees and also a little river and brightly colored paddle-boats.

Having carried some marinated chicken with us, we set up our barbeque and had a jolly good time grilling and eating the bird before dinner was served.

The meal which has to be ordered in advance was placed at the table outside our rooms and we shared a delicious, typically-Goan meal together. This was followed by a lovely bonfire and then, bed. 

Early the next morning, my cousin and I jumped into the ice-cold pool which, at that time of the morning was absolutely deserted. The others came in much later by which time we were bathed and had hung our bathing suits out to dry.

For breakfast we walked across the lawn to what serves as the farm kitchen and were served plates of hot chana bhajji and bread, an all-time favorite, and steaming cups of tea.

Post lunch, we drove to Goa’s famous Bondla Zoo (contact: 0832-2935800).

Although not overly spectacular, I must admit that the Bondla Zoo is far better than the Rani Baug of Mumbai. The animals and birds look healthy and their enclosures are quite large unlike the cramped and smelly cages of the zoo in Mumbai.

 Among others, the zoo houses two magnificent tigers, a couple of leopards, wild boars, snakes and the Gaur, the state animal of Goa. There are well manicured lawns and fairly clean picnic areas. Tourist can spend the night in one of the many cottages and forest lodges in the sanctuary. Many large deer and friendly monkeys roam around freely, so don’t be surprised if one of them comes over to greet you.

By the time we got home that evening, I was absolutely exhausted and wanted nothing more than a nice, warm bath and my bed. All that was left for me to really complete my trip was to sit awhile at Colva Beach, another place that, for me, spells serenity. I did that the very next evening.

That was about all the exploring I could manage this time since I couldn't take more time off from work then. Have already begun working on a list of off-d-beaten-track places of Goa that I hope to explore the next time I feel the urge to escape the rush and grind of Mumbai.

Pics by Misha.

Two Beaches.......Goa.

It’s that time of the year when I get so overwhelmed with the rush of life and I simply had to have a break. At such times, nothing soothes my frayed nerves as much as a few days in Goa…the land of my ancestors…and of delicious seafood.

We had around four days to unwind in Goa before heading back to Mumbai. Although I have close to a hundred relatives living in Goa, we chose to book ourselves into a hotel close to Colva Beach. Graciano Cottages, a green-tiled, one-storied building offers basic comforts and is suitable for couples and tourists who plan on spending most of their time exploring the outdoors. The rooms are not ultra luxurious, but fairly comfortable with a cozy bed, air conditioning and the right amount of quiet and privacy. There is also an in-house restaurant, and although the staff is courteous, service is rather slow.

Like most tourists, we hired a car for the duration of our stay. Vehicles, both two-wheelers and four-wheelers are easily available from anywhere between 300-1000 Rs a day. One can avail of guided tours as well.

Colva Beach, famous for its soft, white sands, is just a two-minute walk from the hotel. Being an early riser I’d pick up a book and sit at the beach while the morning sun crept up behind me. Even in the wee hours of the morning there are quite a few people giving me company. There are bikini-clad tourists rubbing shoulders with locals in Indian beachwear that consists of saris and shalwaar suits.  There are little fishing boats on he shore while fishermen draw in their nets. 

The evening scene is entirely different. The many shops catering to tourists are brightly lit and little ice-cream carts dot the street leading to the beach. There are a number of restaurants at Colva Beach and although they do serve some vegetarian fare, it’s a total shame if one does not sample the delicious goan seafood that Goa is famous for. Many of these restaurants and shacks have live music and karaoke nights to entertain diners. So, great seafood, music and free flowing booze…..all of it adds up to a fun-filled evening. Calamari, Stuffed Squid, Beef Chilly and Masala fried Fish are the things to feast on. The local favorite – sausage bread- is also a must have when in Goa.

However, great food is available even in the cities and in the little, almost hidden by-lanes of Goan villages. In fact, I’d say these little two-table eateries serve the best food at the most pocket-friendly rates. It would do well to explore a little and stray off the beaten path.

Wanting to explore a little of the island of Divar, we drove to the city of Panjim and boarded a ferry towards Divar. The short ride for our vehicle and its three passengers cost us just ten rupees. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience and were saddened to hear that the age old ferry system might be stopped in favor of bridges connecting the island to the mainland. Divar is like the only untainted and un-adulterated slice of Portuguese Goa. The quaint villas are nestled among trees and it’s a picture-perfect village. Locals sit in the veranda of their houses watching the world go by while others sit together in the churchyard and discuss whatever it is they have to discuss. Life seems so simple and easy-going here.

We took the ferry back to Old Goa and, stopping a while at St. Cajetan’s, we drove on towards the far north of Goa….Baga Beach.

Now, although the South of Goa has much to offer tourists in terms of food, beaches and the famous ‘sussegaad’ life, if you crave nightlife, crowded streets and other such entertainment, then head to the North. Calangute and its sister beach, Baga are the places you need to visit. Previously the haunts of foreign tourists, today, these places are famous even among Indian tourists. The streets are lined with night clubs, restaurants, tattoo parlors and bars. More often than not, the place is too crowded, especially in the evenings. If such revelry is what you seek, ensure that you stay at one of the many resorts and guesthouses along the beach itself. During peak season it is almost next to impossible to set foot here. Since the streets are extremely narrow be prepared to sit through hours of traffic moving at snail’s pace or, very often, not moving at all. To make the most of your stay, avoid traffic and get decent accommodation it’s advisable to get here at least a day or two earlier….especially for the New Year celebrations. Have fun, but do be careful. Whispered stories and cases of drugs and mafia matters are not uncommon here. Stay safe.

None of us are drawn by crowds, so we turned around and headed back towards the quiet South where we could breathe easy away from the sea of humanity that seemed to have landed at Baga that weekend. Dinner was at the Ritz, in Panjim and then, a long drive later, we hit the sack.

This little holiday was one we hadn't planned in advance, but it was fun, relaxing and just what we needed to refresh and rejuvenate ourselves. 

Sorry....no pics taken this time. Was too keen on soaking up the natural beauty...just couldn't get myself to spend the time peering through the viewfinder of my camera.