This Diwali, we're meeting our sisters in the North-East. We've already met three of the Seven Sisters - Sikkim, Meghalaya and Assam. Now, we're off to meet two more - Arunachal Pradesh and Mizoram.
Durga Puja celebrations were in full swing here, with little Durga pandals set up at almost every corner. Come evening, these colourfully decorated pandals are brightly lit, with devotees praying and moving to the beat of drums.
I clicked a few pictures of the idol, Durga, in all her fury, putting an end to the demon Mahishaasur. Strangely, most of the idols looked absolutely similar in style and colour, almost like they had been made by one master craftsman.
The sun goes to bed early in Kolkata and is fast asleep by half past five. Makes one think one had to follow suit, when in Mumbai, we'd probably be up for many hours more. I sat in the room sketching in my travel journal, listening to the sound of the drums. When they started up, I rushed down hoping to catch a puja, but saw only an empty pandaal and one lone drummer at the entrance. Not knowing when the actual puja would begin, I headed back to the room and to my sketches. The hotel staff mentioned that the puja and fanfare would begin only post midnight. Oh help!
Dinner was Mutton Biriyani and Chaap from the famous Arsalan. We also ordered their Firni, but did not like it much. Too dense and too smooth. Plus strongly flavoured with saffron. A little too much of many things. The firni at Noorani, Mahim, is sooooooo much better.
Woke up at 4 am. Sat watching a family of six (or was it seven) who were celebrating Diwali on the rooftop of the building across the street. They lit up a floating lantern that simply refused to rise. After many attempts, it finally rose gently up into the air and floated away as the family watched in awe. Really pretty it was! That done, they lit up a few more fireworks and went back home, leaving behind a quiet night. As it should be.
Breakfast at the restaurant was poori with cholar dal and omlette. Plus the customary bread with butter & jam. Having finished that and after thanking the Staff for their services, we made our way back to the airport for our flight to the Donyi Polo Airport, Itanagar.
The 1.45 hr flight was comfortable as I managed to sleep through most of the journey. Woke up just in time to see the snow capped mountains peeking out from above the clouds, then fell back into the land of nod.
The new airport at Itanagar is a rather small but pretty one, set against vast expanses of green hills and the fluffy white clouds in the brilliant blue sky. Prior to this, if one needed to visit Arunachal Pradesh, one had to go to Guwahati airport, AS, and from there, come ahead by road. This airport makes life much easier although, for now, only a few flights operate this route.
The care we'd booked was waiting for us at the airport and we drove the next few kilometers towards Itanagar. Roads are in great condition for most of the way. Our roost for the night was Alub Naam Homestay, a simple, yet pretty place...except for their potted plants. Those were grossly neglected and were wilting away for want of any water. I watered them as soon as we checked in and was glad to see most of them looking much better after a while.
Being hungry, we drove out looking for ABC Restaurant. The exterior looks almost like that of an old video game parlour, and one could easily miss it if not for the ABC painted by the door in super large font. The interiors are not fancy, just simple tables and chairs, but most of them, occupied. The pork fried rice seemed most popular, judging by the orders leaving the kitchen, so we ordered that, some chicken Manchurian and a platter of pork chilli. I also had a few momos. It's a good thing I didn't order any soup, since a bowl of chicken broth is served along with the meal. As expected, the meal was very filling and we didn't think we needed to step out for dinner again.
But we did step out. For waffles and ice-cream. Rolling Station dishes out these huge servings of rolled ice-cream in some amazing flavours. I went with butterscotch caramel, while hubby ordered a strawberry waffle and a maple one. It was all delicious!
Back at the room, it was bath and bed. I was out in no time and didn't stir until the alarm buzzed early the next morning. Before leaving, I gave all those thirsty plants another drink of water. Our plan for the day was to drive to Bomdila for a night, and then, head on towards Tawang. For this, we'd hired a car from Patey Rides (+91 8415097938) and, considering the drive back would be 12hr long down unfamiliar roads, we decided, after much debate, to hire the services of a driver. While Mr. Tutu of Patey Rides was most cooperative and the car given was great, the assigned driver turned out to be a fiasco, but you'll get to know about this as we journey along.
The designated driver, a man named Tadi, arrived half an hour late. Then, once we set out, he begins by saying he has never driven to Tawang and his last visit, with friends, was over five years ago. In fact, this was his first time as a tourist driver. Then, he hopes we will show him the way. After about twenty minutes of driving, he decides there's probably another route he wants to take, but we'd have to retrace our path to back where we'd begun. Wanting none of that, we asked him to continue on the route we were on.
The journey took us via Assam, along good roads offering scenic views of tea gardens, mountains covered with sense forests, icy waterfalls, quaint villages and even snow capped peaks.
Somewhere along the way, we stopped awhile for breakfast at the Gori Chen Restaurant where we ordered some pork chowmein, a bowl of thukpa, and some coffee to finish the meal.
At Bomdila, we spent the night at Himland House, in a cozy room overlooking the street. The room was warmed by a little heater The adjoining Phun's Café was equally charming, offering courteous service, comfortable ambience and delicious items on the menu.
Since part of the deal was paying for the driver's meals, before checking into our rooms, we asked Tadi to give us the bills for his meals and set a meeting time so we could do a spot of sightseeing. The man had clearly made up his mind not only to dine in whichever restaurant we chose for ourselves, but also to order exactly what we were having. And, at times, even more .
That evening, we visited the Bomdila Monastery. Like all monasteries, this one, too, had a serene air about it, broken only by the chatter of tourists.
The monastery grounds also offer good views of the town & surrounding mountainside.
Early the next morning, we set off towards Tawang. En route, we stopped awhile at the little town of Dirang and, for a brief time, explored the old Dirang Dzong. Except for a few exterior walls, I'm not sure how much of the Dzong really exists today. There is, however, a little settlement that is beautiful. Houses of wood and stone, flowers blooming on window-sills and on doorsteps, huge stacks of corn hanging to dry, and the occasional cat and dog basking in the sun...this all makes for a very pretty picture.
Moving on, we stopped along the way for breakfast at Kelxang Fooding, a small family run restaurant, by the wayside. Food is freshly prepared and not bad at all. We had fried rice, Maggi and coffee.
Then, taking a detour towards the beautiful Sela Pass, we walked down to Sangetsar Lake, known locally as Madhuri Lake after a bollywood actress of that same name shot a film sequence at the lake way back in 1997. The lake is truly beautiful with its mirror surface reflecting the blue skies and the majestic mountains. The entire scene is so breathtaking that one can clearly see why, this lake is also, often referred to as Paradise Lake.
Today, Sela Pass, a high-altitude pass that connects West Kameng district to Tawang district, is of strategic importance to the Indian Army. In fact, there is a strong presence of our armed forces in almost all of Tawang and its surrounding areas. I must say, I found them very impressive and am so very proud of our men in uniform.
After a few more hours of driving through the mountains, past quaint villages, we reached the old market street in Tawang. It looked, to my eyes, a lot like Darjeeling, with its narrow streets and line of local stores and cafés. Our room was in Hotel Kunzin, a family run establishment. Our hosts, a mother-daughter duo, were most helpful and very courteous in manner.
For a late lunch, we went to The Dragon, accompanied by the driver, who, as previously mentioned, proceeded to replicate our order and gave himself and upgrade on the beverage.
Our meal was quite nice and was followed by a much needed rest. As it was past sunset, we stayed in and stepped out again, around 8pm, for an early dinner. This time around, our driver didn't join us, but he did visit another restaurant of his choice and ordered the most expensive did on the menu. On being sent the bill, we covered the payment while politely asking him to be a little considerate with the expenses. Then, reminding him that we were to set out at 8am the next morning, we called it a day.
8.30am. Next day. He calls to inform us that we couldn't go sightseeing on account of the Tawang Marathon. Still in his room lying in his PJs. he makes no effort to check facts. We asked around and learn that the marathon route does not affect accessibility to major landmarks. On being chided for poor service, he not only storms off in a huff, but then marches back to ask for the car keys as he needs to 'roam around town.' Firing him immediately, we decided to self drive around the town and visited three lovely places.
The Tawang Monastery, the largest of its kind in India. I'd say it was beautiful, but to be honest, when it comes to monasteries, somehow, there is not much different about them. If you've seen one, you've seen them all. Now, if someone were to relate an interesting backstory, legend or titbit about the place, that's what would make a difference. This monastery complex houses around 65 residential buildings in addition to the main buildings i.e. the prayer hall, study centre, museum etc. The main temple is three storey tall and houses an 18 foot tall statue of the Buddha in lotus position.
We went next, to see the Giant Statue of the Buddha. This approx' 40ft statue is located at a place that is extremely windy. It was truly something to see (and hear) the numerous prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. An army camp is nearby and some armed trucks came rumbling in.
Army men flooded the place for a brief moment, cheerfully enjoying the breeze and admiring the statue/temple. They were mentioned from different parts of the country so they spoke varied languages. Some, I understood, so I overheard some friendly banter and even offered to click a few pictures for some of them.
The happy troop left just as swiftly as they had arrived. We stayed only a moment longer before heading downhill ourselves.
Our last visit of the day was to the Tawang War Memorial. Designed using Buddhist architectural and cultural elements, the War Memorial honours those who lost their lives in the war of 1962. Once again, the presence of army men is very obvious here, and the place is well maintained by them with the respect it deserves. An air of serenity and cheer is to be felt all around. There is a little museum dedicated to the memory of Major Ralengnao 'Bob' Khating, recognising his role in securing Tawang. Back in 1951, Major Khating led the first armed forces into Tawang and established administrative control & peace in the disputed region. The pathway that leads to the museum is lines on either side by busts of brave heroes who were martyred in the Indo-China conflict of 1962. Beneath each bust, is a pedestal on which is a plaque highlighting the brave sacrifice of that particular officer. Just reading it gave me the chills, and once again, filled me with pride.
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The museum provides information, not just about Major Khating, but also speaks of the War of 1962. It offers a glimpse into the background of the war and the circumstances that led to it.
Back outside, I stood talking to some soldiers and enjoying their light hearted conversations. When a higher officer's car passed by us, they saluted smartly, and for a moment, I wondered if I was expected to do the same. The War Memorial is also a great spot to get a picture and clear view of the old Tawang Monastery.
Back in town, we again had a late lunch at The Dragon. Their chowmein is delicious, so we ordered that, and I asked for a bowl of Thengtuk, a hearty Tibetan soup, very similar to Thukpa, except that this one has flat noodles that are freshly made, cut into bite sized pieces and dropped into the soup just as it begins to boil.
DID YOU KNOW.....I finally learned the difference between Chowmein and Hakka Noodles. While the former is a traditional preparation, the latter is a Chindian version that was popularised by the Hakka Chinese who, ages ago, settled in India.
Later that evening, after ensuring we were packed and ready, we headed to Phun's for a light dinner and some coffee. While the meal was good, somehow the place lacked the coziness and warmth of its Bomdila counterpart. And it did not offer the Korean menu, so I surely missed the Bulgogi Kimbab.
Early the next morning, just as the sun was rising, we bid farewell to Tawang and set out for the long drive back to Itanagar. En route, to break the journey, we stopped at Bomdila for breakfast. And yes, we went to Phun's, had a hearty breakfast, bought an additional coffee to go, and we're soon back on the road. The journey was long....the longest my husband has ever driven . He says it was a very nice drive. Since we set off at the break of dawn, we had the surreal experience of, at times, driving with the rising sun directly in our eyes. And the windshield kept fogging up due to the cold, and we had to keep opening and shutting the windows to sort that out. If the defogger was working we'd not have experienced braving the cold. Except for a few rough patches which can be expected in the mountains, all through we drove along good, traffic-free roads, ensuring a smooth ride.
That night, we again checked into Alub Naam Homestay. Once again, a comfortable room, but not very well maintained. Lying in bed, one can make a detailed study of cobwebs, dust and stained walls. A quick meal at ABC, and it was bath and bed.
Our flight to Kolkata was scheduled for the next afternoon. Before heading to the airport, we made a breakfast stop at The Decembers. The place is fairly large, but still empty as it had just opened up for the day. We ordered an English breakfast, a coffee, a hazelnut shake and a French Toast. Everything was surprisingly very good. The French Toast was different from what I prepare at home. Mine, are usually sweet and had directly off the pan, with just a drizzle of honey. The Decembers served it up with grilled sausages and slices of crispy bacon. It was delicious!
On arrival at Donyi Polo, we returned our hired car with many thanks, and headed directly to RJS Homestay in Space Town, not very far from the airport. Situated in a secure, gated community, the accommodation is very comfortable, provides all basic amenities and is clean. We were quite impressed with it. There's a convenience store right outside the gate and, as we discovered, a tiny, but fabulous restaurant just around the corner. Cabin Flavours is a recently opened restaurant that offers colourfully interesting interiors and really tasty food. Their mutton roll is super! While waiting for our meal to arrive, we admired the drawings on the walls. From ceiling to floor, there are brightly painted with child like scenes depicting the Kolkata life. Very amusing!
After a restful night in our very comfortable room, we were soon back at the airport for our flight to Aizawal, the capital city of Mizoram. While heading to our assigned gate, we passed a large group of Krishna devotees, all foreigners, dancing to the sound of dholaks and cymbals, singing, 'Hare Rama, Hare Krishna'.
INTERESTING FACT: Aizawal is known as India's 'Silent City', and they live up to the moniker. The citizens have exceptional traffic etiquette, there is zero honking and there's a lot of consideration given to other vehicles and pedestrians. There is a strong culture of mutual respect and courtesy, and this can be clearly seen on the roads. Even during peak hours, vehicles keep to their lane and there is hardly any overtaking. Being disciplined is a choice that the citizens voluntarily follow.
A long wait and a short flight later, we landed at the Lengpui Airport, another tiny airport nestled among the mountains. We were greeted by fluffy clouds, a setting sun and a large crucifix with the words, 'Thy will be done.' Before collecting out bags from the belt, we joined other passengers in securing an ILP at the airport desk. When we proceeded to book a cab to the hotel, we realised that the airport is in fact, quite far from Aizawal city. And fares are steep. It took us ₹1800 and an hour and a half to reach our destination, but what a drive it is! Lush greenery, fluffy clouds, roads lined with colourful flowers, and pretty little villages all along. We had to cut through the main city to get to Hotel Jay Jay, located in the Falkland area of town.
By the time we reached, it was past sunset and all of Aizawal lit up the mountain side like a million stars on Earth. What a sight!
Our stay at Aizawal was booked at Hotel Jay Jay (+91 9612393893), a very cozy and charming place in the heart of the city. Rooms are clean & comfortable. Food and hospitality are noteworthy, but what's best is the view. One bears witness to some lovely sunrises from the terrace.
Dinner at the hotel was freshly prepared Fried Rice served on the hotel terrace that offers a beautiful view of the city lights. I decided to order a traditional Mizo thali. First came a huge bowl of rice, a generous serving of dal, some chicken curry and a simple salad.
"Oooh," I thought to myself, "ooookay...but it's strange that there aren't any vegetables."
No sooner did I think that, than a few more bowls were placed before me. "Ah! Here are some vegetables". I saw a bowl of moringa leaves & rice soup, steamed squash, a gherkin broth and a spinach & egg omlette. "Now, that is really a lot" I said to my husband.
Just as I was about to begin eating, a bowl of fried & spiced potatoes was placed before me.
"Oh-oh! This is too much! Will I be able to finish it all?" I asked myself as I began to tuck in.
Well, finish it all I did. It was good.
Now, cars are not available here for a self-drive option, so we hired the services of a driver to guide us around on our first day in the city. If we wanted to make the most of our day, we had to remember that the sun sets very early here and that distances between places are vast. So we set off at 5.30am, and for the next 10 odd hours were on the road. It was a very enjoyable day, although driving down narrow, winding mountain roads can be quite exhausting.
We had planned to explore the outskirts of Aizawal on day 1, and the city lights, on day 2. To drive us around, we hired the services of Mr. Tetea of Mizo Car Rental (+91 7005619709). He turned out to be an engaging chap who tried his best to ensure we got the most out of the day's excursion.
On Day 1, as I said before, we started out early, stopping first at Phulpur. Here, we engaged in an uphill trek that was a little tedious, but not sunny thanks to the forest cover all around us. All through, we saw a lovely view of the clouds coming in over the mountains, beyond time villages on mountain peaks. At the end of our little hike, we came to a large banyan tree to whose branches were tied some rustic swings. A little up ahead was a watch tower and a few benches. We spent some time taking in the view here. Then, we spied another beaten track by the huge banyan tree. Wanting to see where that led, we followed it around the bend and came to a clearing with two wooden cottages and the remnants of a bonfire. Judging by a banner tied nearby, this was the spot for the gathering of the local Mizo Youth Association. Walking ahead, we came to this little stone ledge overlooking the beyond. This is the Phulpui Grave site. It has two graves, Zawlpala and Talvungi. Locals speak of Zawlpala, chief of Phulpui village, who fell in love with, & married the beautiful Talvungi of Thenzawl. Since polygamy was an accepted practice then, Talvungi was later married to the chief of Rothai, Punthia. But, Talvungi could not forget her love for Zawlpala. After many years when Zawlpala died, grief stricken Talvungi came to Phulpui, dug a pit by the side of Zawlpala's grave and asked an old woman to kill her and bury her in the grave. And it was beautiful.
Here, too, was a swing tied to a banyan tree, and a few benches. While very few tourists visit here, the spot is popular among the local Mizos.
It is serene and, if not for the hike uphill, it would be my go-to place, had I been a resident here.
Next, we drove on to Hmuifang, another lovely place, not for mountain views, but for rolling hills and lots of flowers. The Hmuifang Park is a beautifully serene place to just lie on the grass with not a care in the world or to indulge in a meditative walk.
We then hopped across the street for breakfast. Nice enough people, tasty enough food, but questionable cleanliness.
Another long stretch of winding road later, we reached Sialsuk. To get to the top of the hill, we had to drive along a narrow, bumpy dirt road. Along the way, I had spied another spot with nothing but a large, simple white crucifix at its peak. Lovely! Parking the car, we walked up towards another watch tower. Here, at Sialsuk, the hills are marked with what looks like gravestones. Well, if someone hoped for peace in death, this is where they'd come to be buried - high up in the mountains, surrounded by land and sky.
After a while enjoying the views and clicking photographs, we drove further ahead towards
Thenzawl to see a waterfall. En route, we stopped for a quick lunch of Chow with egg top, and a glass of lassi. Weirdly, here, apart from the usual salt-pepper shaker, each table also had a small bowl of chilli chutney, a bowl of koshimbir, and a large bowl of half a dozen eggs. Raw eggs, not boiled. When we ordered our chow with egg on top, the lady picked up an egg from our table and headed towards the kitchen.
Why would anyone keep raw eggs on every table? On inquiry, I learned that eggs in Mizoram are typically sold unwashed and consumed much more quickly, making immediate refrigeration less critical. Moreover, in most restaurants, eggs are sourced from backyard poultry, a common practice in Mizoram, and are sold with their natural bloom intact. This acts as a protective barrier from bacteria entering the eggs' pores and enables longer storage of the eggs at cool room temperature, without refrigeration.
The Thenzawl waterfall can only be viewed from across the mountain. It appears that trekking to the waterfall and splashing around in it is not permitted. It's not a very deep drop, but surrounded by the forests and mountains, and crowned by a cloudy sky, it's a lovely sight.
Our last destination enjoyed, we began the long, long, long drive back to Aizawal. It took us around three hours to reach the hotel, by which time, the sun had set and another day was done.
As we neared the city, we got news of a State-wide shutdown being organised by the MNF the next day. That put a huge dampener on our plans as it meant we wouldn't be able to explore Aizawal at all.
Having nowhere to go all morning, we had breakfast on the hotel terrace itself & I spent the time working on some sketches in my travel journal. By 1pm we were informed that the shut-down had been cancelled, so we called our driver and asked him to pick us up for the city sightseeing. However, we did very much want to catch the sunset, so decided to rework our original plan and headed directly towards Solomon Temple. The founder of this church says that he saw a vision of Solomon's Temple in his dreams. On waking, he wrote down his dream and began the construction of this temple accordingly. With an interior seating capacity of 2000 people, this temple is the largest in the state of Mizoram. The construction of the temple is such that it symbolises many aspects from the Bible, such as the twelve main doors that represent the 12 gates of New Jerusalem as given in the book of Revelations.
We wanted to explore Barra Bazaar, but even after the strike was called off, shops had remained shut as it was now almost nearing sunset and closing time and most employees were, in all probability, relaxing at home.
That being the case, and with only little time left before sunset, we drove up to the Aizawal Skywalk. Set high on a peak overlooking the city, the skywalk is popular among locals and tourists alike. It really is a great place to watch the sun going down behind the mountains. It's really something to witness how the city slowly lights up as the sky darkens all around.
Before heading back to the hotel, we ate a pizza and some fried rice at the Peak Café.
Waking up really early our last morning, we stepped out onto the terrace to catch a sunrise. We were greeted by a dense cloud cover all around, but like magic as it often happens, the rooftops of Aizawal and the surrounding mountains slowly rose from the mist. Eventually, the sun did rise and what a glorious sunrise it was!
After breakfast, we took our bags down to the waiting cab. Our host, Mr. Jervis of Hotel Jay Jay, very sweetly handed me a packet of local sun-dried gooseberries as a memento of my travel.
Our vacation was finally at an end, and it had been a very enjoyable one. Through it all, we learned that the people of our North-Eastern states are extremely nice. We also discovered that Arunachal Pradesh knows how to brew a good cup of coffee. We would have loved to explore Aizawal some more, get a feel of its vibe, and if it wasn't for the unexpected shutdown, we'd have made so much more of the experience. From what little I did see, I noticed that the people of Aizawal are simple, and their homes even simpler. I peeped into some as we drove by. Most houses seemed to comprise of a large room with an open kitchen in one corner, and minimum furniture of which a bare wooden sofa seemed mandatory.
At Gate 01 of the very wee Lengpui Airport, we purchased a few local trinkets and soon boarded our flight to Kolkata, from where we then flew back home to Mumbai.
So.....where to next?
