Here we were, on yet another journey. The flight to Kolkata was considerably delayed and walking around the city was pretty tiring on account of of the heavy bags that had to be lugged around. We were in the City of Joy for just a few hours until we had to head to the railway station but we did manage to go to Arsalan for some of their yummy biryani and chaap.
We then walked for almost 25 minutes towards Fluries for some of their apple-pie and a peach melba, which was yummy, but a little too sweet. We then took an Uber to Sealdah. The driver was such an amusing chap. He had taken it upon himself to give us all the information about the Kali puja festivities and the different forms of the Goddess Durga that are celebrated during the nine days of Navratri and the different pandals that a decorated for Durga Puja.
Sealdah Station was very very gaily lit not just because it was nearing Diwali or anything but I think that's how these stations are planned. It was the same at Lucknow when I was there. The colours kept changing and were bright and pretty and gaudy at the same time. The station is very busy being one of the biggest stations of Kolkata. Since we had over 2 hours until the train departed, we waited at the paid waiting room which is quite comfortable, extremely convenient on your pocket and the best place to wait in. So, 2 hours later we boarded the Kanchan Kanya Express and had an entire night to ourselves on a very comfortable journey in a very cozy coupé. We slept very well and next morning spent some time looking out at the past expenses of green fields and beautiful tea gardens as we headed to our next point Hasimara from where we were met by a driver who took us to the border town of Alipurdwar, the entry point between Bhutan and India. Crossing over the border, we entered Phuentsholing, where we had to get a visa on arrival. Here, we were met by Sonam and Rigzin, our assigned guide and driver who would be with us for the entire duration of our stay in Bhutan.
Oh, do remember to withdraw comfortable amount of cash from the ATM before crossing over since all though Indian currency works in Bhutan cards are not acceptable and neither is any form of online payment.
The visa process was very simple and got over in almost no time without any happy but what struck us was that in just a matter of a few steps just a few steps forward and we had left one country and walked into another country so very different from us in terms of scenery in terms of architecture in terms of weather in so many ways the architecture here is actually built in the traditional designs with very very pretty colours and lot of detail in wood making everything a delight to look at.
After getting our visas approved and being formally gifted with a white scarf, a symbol of peace and warm welcome, we had lunch at the Kuenga Hotel Log Cabin, before setting out on the 5 hour drive towards Paro. We found ourselves passing beautiful towns and vegetable vendors in these beautifully built, wooden stalls on stilts almost. Soon, we entered Paro and passed the Paro citadel, now lit up for the night and the main town of Paro with it's very interesting looking shops and streets.
Driving on, we finally stopped at Hotel Silver Cloud, a very comfortable and well managed place not too far from the main town, but far enough to afford us some peace an quiet after a long day.
Breakfast at Silver Cloud was plenty and delicious. A continental spread accompanied by a hot pot of tea or coffee to suit your preference. As I was up early, I sat at a table by the window, penning down a few thoughts for the blog and watching the peaceful village scene across the street. Krishna, the young man who worked in the restaurant was a pretty friendly fellow and, as I later discovered, is a schoolmate of our driver, Rigzin. It seems almost everyone knows everyone else here!
While my husband went ahead to click some pictures, I found myself standing by the road, looking up at a little monastery of sorts that is upon a little hill you have an old Buddhist monk walking around the pray wheel with his beads and every time is pin is the wheel there is a beautiful sound of a bell timing and it sounds excellent in the silence of Paro valley because there are not many cars here nor are there any sounds that usually plague the city just as the sound of the bell is adding melody to the moment somewhere below that is the sound of a stream down the mountain side so the sound of the bell combined with the music of dream it's really something to experience. There are also two tall coniferous trees on either side of the temple of the hill and the sun is keeping out really bright from between the branches of the I think top most branches of one of the trees just below that that is a prayer flag weaving in the breeze and the line of clothes strung out to dry beside so all and all makes for a really pretty scene.
The first morning, we visited Dukgyel Dzong, a former fortress and Buddhist monastery, that is located in the Upper Paro district. At the time of our visit, it was closed for visits. But the provides a good view of the Jumolhari mountain which is the only snow-capped peak in sight. Mountains in Bhutan are considered to be sacred, so trekking in not encouraged unless it's a pilgrimage to one of the many monasteries situated atop them.
Next, we visited the Kyichu Lakhang, a Buddhist temple built around a 7th century temple. You can smell the musty and heady scent of old wood, paint and metal in the oldest if the rooms and the one adjoining it. The names of the various deities and revered persons is quite confusing and I could recognise just a few, but pronounce almost none. What I quite liked about the monastery, and almost all monasteries, is their flooring. Wide, cool wooden planks worn smooth by the numerous bare feet that have trodden there since ages.
The garden of the Kyichu Lakhang is a beautiful place, well laid out with rustic, cobbled pathways & sheltered stone benches under Persimmon and Orange trees. At the far end of the garden is the chapel where offerings of butter lamps burn bright in neat rows of two or three.
If it wasn't so brilliantly hot & sunny, thus garden would make for a great spot to meditate on the mysteries of life.
For lunch, our guide led us to Mountain Cafe, a cafe-restaurant quite popular with tourists. It offers good views of the town, but the service is rather slow and the food is super spicy. I had to rinse my mouth out with warm and cold water repeatedly to stop the heat from burning a hole through my tongue.
The National Museum built in the ancient watchtower, was our next stop. The exhibits begin on the uppermost level and then, in a spiral manner, move lower, showcasing the weapons, crafts and history of Bhutan and its royal family. Being an old structure, the passageways are narrow and low-celinged. Personally, I found it rather claustrophobic and couldn't wait to step back out into the open.
The museum was bustling with tourists, one group that stood out were a large & loud troop of Chinese tourists, led by their guide who was very apologetic for almost shadowing us at every exhibit. Really cute he was!
The newer section of the Museum, built slightly uphill from the old watchtower, houses a room of many ceremonial masks, some information of the flora & fauna of Bhutan and one or two temporary exhibits.
Outside the watchtower is a good spot to admire Paro valley spread out far below. Cameras and phones are not permitted in the museum and have to be kept in a locker, but you can click some really nice pictures once outside.
Our final stop for the day, Rinpung Dzong, was simply beautiful! An almost enchanted-like fortress now habited by monks. Just looking at the entrance itself leads the mind to imagine some ancient army marching fiercely through its gates. Inside, the layout is fairly simple yet imposing. Like everywhere else in Bhutan the walls are white with extensive ornamentation in bright, primary colours. Apparently, the movie Seven Years in Tibet was shot here.
Unlike the museum, the citadel was blissfully devoid of visitors, thanks to us having signed in at the very Nth moment before entry was denied. Once in, we had about an hour to explore the architecture and beauty of this lovely monument.
Really early the next morning, we drove towards Paro Taktsang, more popularly known as Tiger's Nest. Legend has it that Padmasambhava, the 'Second Buddha', meditated here for three months when he brought Buddhism to Bhutan. He's said to have arrived on a flying tiger. Hence the title.
To get to the monastery, one has to make the three-hour climb up the mountain, which while very enjoyable, can be a little exhausting and taxing on the knees. Since flying tigers are not available to us mere mortals, sturdy ponies can be hired for around 50% of the journey uphill.
Just looking at the distance to be covered, I was very tempted to befriend a pony, but then, I spotted quite a few senior citizens making the trek on foot. That was inspiring and humbling, so deciding against the pony, I began the climb, stopping ever so often to catch my breath. But it was worth going all the way on foot & we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
What makes the experience less tedious is the friendliness and banter among fellow trekkers. Mostly European and Chinese, they were all friendly, cheerful and quick to share a word of encouragement and advice, when needed. More often, we shared tired smiles, acknowledging the effort that was going into the trek.
Along the way, at various spots, pilgrims & trekkers had stacked stones, creating mini pagodas as a sign of prayer and seeking protection. In Buddhism, this is a common practice, with each stone in the stack representing a prayer or petition. I added a tiny little stack, too, with the stones symbolizing the people I was praying for.
Continuing with the trek.....at 1/2 way point is the Taktsang Cafeteria, offering eats, the use of a clean washroom and a spectacular view of the Tiger's Nest. Our hotel had provided us with a packed breakfast of boiled egg, a sandwich, a banana, a strip of sesame brittle and some fruit juice - just perfect for a trek.
Once that was all wiped clean, we continued further uphill, with the trek getting a little more tedious. Just when you thought you could go no higher and were reaching the end, a long flight of stone stairs leads you back down the mountain side, past a beautiful waterfall and then up again, towards the monastery. My guide commented on this by stating the Buddhist belief that one has to struggle on their path towards God/enlightenment in order to end all suffering. Not sure about suffering, but the trek was more likely to be the end of me at that point.
Still, with the entrance to the monastery in sight, I managed to pant & puff my way up the last stretch of stairs winding up the mountainside.
Finally, depositing all bags and electronic items at the entrance, we stepped into the famed Tiger's Nest Monastery, a very sacred and most revered spot in Bhutan.
Inside, the monastery houses eight shrines, all with a lovely story to tell, with wooden floors and altars graced by the presence of various deities. Walls are beautifully painted with religious figures and mythological themes, protected from human touch by use of a sheer, silken covering from ceiling to floor.
There's also a lesser visited Tiger's Nest, a steep, narrow descent into a dark abyss of sorts, leading to a cave said to have been the nest/lair of the flying tiger.
The path back to the base had us retrace our steps, this time accompanied by the quiet satisfaction of having successfully completed what I once doubted was possible. Like many other trekkers, we stopped, once again, for lunch at the mid-way café, sharing in the same meal as everyone else - a simple, yet nutritious spread of vegetarian food, followed by a cup of tea. One particular dish is worth a mention. It was all green & creamy, and I thought I heard our guide say they were edamame beans. He said Ema Datshi, the Bhutanese national dish of spicy chilli-peppers and cheese. I realised it only after my eyes began to water and my mouth was stuffed with a forkful of what I thought were flat beans.
Eventually we were back at the base, super exhilarated to have completed the trek.
It was only later that I realised that, somewhere on the way downhill, I had lost my sunglasses. My poor PP.
An eulogy to PP....
PP was always known as PP. In fact, for a few years, he wasn't even named. Loved, yes. Named, no. Then, one fine day, early in the morning, somewhere in Udaipur, the sunglasses fell down the toilet. He had to be fished out, washed repeatedly in antiseptic liquid, soap and disinfectant. He was then sanitized and left alone for a couple of months before being put to use again. And that's how he came by the name PP.
Dear, sweet Potty Pants, you are sorely missed. I do hope you have been found by someone who needs you and takes good care of you. You will always be thought of with love.
Btw.....i'll have you know that the washroom had just been opened for the day and was freshly cleaned by the staff. There was no actual potty anywhere in sight.
Back in town, being tired, we spent a very short time exploring the stores of Paro, mostly offering Bhutanese crafts and souvenirs. I purchased a few hairsticks, and was quite amused with the huge array of beautifully decorated penises on display in almost every store window. Apparently, the penis is considered very auspicious in Bhutanese culture. Traditionally symbols of an erect penis in Bhutan have been intended to drive away the evil eye and malicious gossip. It is also considered, by many, a sign of fertility. Phalluses are a very common sight in Bhutan. Painted or carved, colorful phalluses are drawn on the walls of homes....some pink, some yellow, some hairy, some with piercing, dragon-like eyes and some adorned with bright Bhutanese designs.
Stores sell penis showpieces of various shapes and sizes, penis pendants and little penis keychains as well. Tourists can choose to buy any or even all of them.
The next day was one defined by aching knees and thighs. But that did not stop us from exploring the highest mountain pass in Bhutan, Chelela Pass. The drive uphill was pleasant and it got colder and windier as predicted by Sonam. At the Pass, a few devout Buddhists were sitting together, chanting prayers and playing their sacred instruments, adding a special vibe to our experience there.
Making the very short trek uphill towards the stupa, we finally stopped to click pics of the surrounding mountains, especially the snow covered mountains. That day, it seems that the clouds had made it their mission to hang low across the surrounding mountains, largely obscuring our view of the famed & sacred mountains.
Still, I think we managed to get a few good pics when it's snowy peak peeped through the clouds. It was so cold and windy there that his fingers were almost chilled to the bone in the process. While the wind and the mountain called out to him, I felt called by nature in a very different sort of way. Adding another little stone pile of my own along the way, I headed back towards the carpark, towards the very quaint and very rustic washroom at the far end of the carpark. It was nothing more than a tiny wooden shed perched almost at the edge of the mountain. There were two drums of icy-cold water outside, from which one had to carry water inside, using the modified cans kept for the purpose.
Doing what needed to be done, I headed back to watch the little group still at prayer, rhythmically blowing on the dungchen and beating on the drums.
We drove next, to what our guide Sonam referred to as the 2nd Tigers Nest. Another sacred and important, but lesser known landmark, this temple, like the Taktsang Monastery, is found hugging the cliffside, though not as high. Getting to the monastery requires a short, mildly steep climb up a flight of stone stairs.
The monastery, when we visited, was undergoing some repairs and restoration. What's really heartwarming is that it is the locals - young and old - who volunteer their time and skills towards the upkeep of their monasteries. It is the same all across Bhutan actually. In fact, the King has set up this lovely organisation of youth volunteers in bright orange overalls, who take up varied jobs to meet the needs of their country.
At this monastery, a group of local female volunteers were happily singing as they worked. I did not understand the words, but Sonam assured me they were singing a local love song. One of the group, sang out a little louder than the others as she passed me by, while another smiled sweetly, and yet another, waved in friendly greetings.
Sonam led us up a few wooden stairs to the main temple of the monastery. A lone Buddhist monk seated there took his time providing extensive information about the monastery and its presiding deities. This was all in Bhutanese, so I had to rely on Sonam to give me a translated summary.
Driving back to Paro, seeking a very late lunch, we asked Sonam to direct us to any place that was more local than touristy. This turned out to be an establishment nestled above a stone on the main Street. With deep brown, wooden interiors and a brief menu scrawled on a tiny chalkboard pinned up to the wall. We placed our order and then sat with our guides around the lone table in the outer room. Our meal soon arrived and after that, being rather exhausted, we headed back to the hotel.
As before, we sat a while at the in-house café before going back to the room and calling it a day.
Drive to Thimpu
The next morning, after another hearty breakfast, we began our drive to Thimpu, the capital city of Bhutan. Along the way, we stopped at what is the oldest bridge in Bhutan, the Tachog Lhakhang Old Bridge, a suspension bridge believed to have been built by Thangtong Gyelpi, the Iron Man of Bhutan. He is said to have bent and formed each link with his own bare hands.
When here, we spotted a small busload of youth in bright orange overalls out on a field trip of sorts. On enquiry, Sonam told us that these youth were known as Desu, guardians of peace. These were a specially commissioned group of dedicated young volunteers in the service of their country. Sonam proudly announced that he, too, was a member of the Desu. He even showed us a picture of himself, one among the sea of orange clad youth, standing proudly with their beloved king.
After a pleasant drive, we were soon at our Hotel, The Lemon Leaf, in Thimpu, across the National Stadium. The room was comfortable and fairly pleasant, although not better than the one at Paro. W.r.t location, the Lemon Leaf is right in the heart of Thimpu, with its major cafés, hotels, and public squares like the one with the clock tower, a local landmark. A short walk away, there is a long line of uniform handicraft stalls manned by locals, an initiative of the Bhutanese government to encourage traditional handicraft related education & employment among the youth.
One thing to note is that all cafés, small and large, are locally owned and managed. Not a Starbucks or Tim Horton's in sight. But that's not saying that what's available isn't good. There are some really great places one can hang out in...like The Ambient Café, a popular, cozy place with a view of the town and some nice artwork on the walls. What adds warmth to the ambience is that the place is cat friendly, complete with a kitty-basket placed atop one of the shelves by the door.
Anyhooo....for our first meal in Thimpu our guide led us to the Cousin Restaurant and Café, which, judging by the number of tourists there, seems like the go-to option for guides. The place had a buffet option which while not bad, wasn't something to write home about. Except maybe for the honey carrots. Those were passable. That, and the scoop of vanilla ice-cream served at the end of the meal.
To begin, we visited the Great Buddha Dordenma Statue, a 177ft gilded Shakyamuni Buddha statue overlooking the peaceful Thimpu valley. The statue houses over a hundred thousand smaller Buddha statues that, like the Great Buddha Dordenma, are made of bronze and gilded in gold.
Giant Buddha. Luckily for us, there were almost no other visitors/tourists crowding the place allowing us to explore and enjoy the monument in peace. While I was quite impressed with the hundred thousand buddhas inside the monument, what I liked best was leaning against the golden monument, looking out at the valley. Seated there, our guide explained to us the significance of the rooftops of Thimpu where residential roofs are green and institutional/government rooftops are red.
Sonam also explained to me the significance of the Khadar (scarf/shawl) traditionally worn by Bhutanese men. He said that only the King wears yellow. His ministers wear orange. Judges wear green, while the members of the opposition wear blue. Citizens wear white, denoting a sense of respect and responsibility. Only officials wielding authority are permitted to carry a sword.
Sonam always draped his white khadar around himself when entering an important Dzong or monastery.
Next, we were taken to visit the National Monument Chorten, a prominent landmark in the city, with golden spires and bells. Built in 1974 to honour the third Druk Gyalpo, the place is largely visited by local pilgrims who, with their prayer beads and prayer wheels, repeatedly walk clockwise around the stupa. Our guide asked me to join him as he, too, paid his respects by circumnavigating the stupa before leading us inside to explain to us the various deities and their significance. When chatting with Rigzin, our assigned driver, he very proudly told me that the Gho he was wearing that day was hand woven by his elder sister.
The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel (their pancake with blueberry compote is really good),
we began the day with a visit to the Takin Reserve, a well-planned park providing sanctuary not just to some Sambar deer, but mainly to the National animal of Bhutan, the Takin. Now, there's a very interesting legend that one must hear before visiting the Reserve.
It goes like this.... One day, Drukpa Kunley (also known as the Divine Madman) was asked to perform a miracle by the local villagers and he told them he would if they would first bring him a cow and a goat to eat.
The villagers, a bit confused, prepared the roasted cow and the goat and presented it to the Divine Madman who immediately devoured both of them in ten minutes. There was nothing left but the cleaned bones.
The madman then took the head of the goat, attached it to the skeleton of the cow, clapped his hands and, to the surprise of the whole village, the skeleton grew a full body, jumped up and ran into the meadow and began feeding. And that, ladies & gentlemen, is how the Takin came to be.
There is also a cute little café in the Reserve where we sat awhile for some coffee and a very delicious sort of Raspberry cake. We had two of those.
Our visit to the Takin Reserve was followed by a fairly long, but enjoyable hike towards another little monastery that, apart from its religious significance, seems to be a popular picnic spot among the locals, dressed gaily in their beautiful kiras and ghos. The hike itself isn't exhausting, with a well-shaded dust path winding through a wooden area, often offering glimpses of the valley with the Great Buddha watching over it. We sat awhile among the many other pilgrims, who were out celebrating the long weekend break in honor of the anniversary of the coronation of their beloved king.
The day's adventures ended with a visit to Simply Bhutan, an experience highly recommended by our guide as being something that just shouldn't be missed. Well, he was absolutely right! The experience was really memorable right from the time we stepped over the threshold and into a whole new world of colour, music, flavour & tradition. The experience began with a serving of Ara, the national drink of Bhutan made by fermenting & distilling grains like wheat, rice, millet, buckwheat or barley. Our prettily dressed guide then led us further indoors to give us an insight into traditional form of construction and music. Next, was an introduction to various musical instruments and a brief stop at a gaily landscaped penis garden. A visit to a traditional Bhutanese kitchen was followed by a very entertaining dance performance during which we were not only treated to some Suja (hot buttered tea) and Dhesi (sweet rice), but also invited to join in the dance and learn some of their graceful, flowing movements.
The visit to Simply Bhutan ended with us trying our hand at the country's national sport - Archery. If anyone succeeded in hitting the bullseye, or even came close to it, a team of enthusiastic performers would spring out and perform a victory dance. I highly recommend a visit to Simply Bhutan be included in your list of must-do when visiting Thimpu.
For our last day of exploration we set off towards Punakha, stopping en route to visit the 108 stupas at Dochula Pass. Also known as Druk Wangyal Khang Zhang Chortens, these stupas were built as memorials to Bhutaneese soldiers who died fighting the Asameese rebels. When we arrived here, there was quite a bit of cloud cover adding a touch of mystique to the experience. Sadly, however, the cloud cover also prevented us from witnessing the line of snow-capped Himalayan mountains in the distance, a view for which the Dochula Pass is famous.
On to our next stop, the Chimi Lhakhang, or the fertility temple. This temple is blessed by the Divine Madman. Many childless couples make a devout pilgrimage to the lhakhang in the hope that they will be honoured with a wang, or a blessing from the lama. Women entering the temple, who are hoping to conceive, are made to carry a wooden phallus around the temple three times. Our guide told us that, if the ritual is to succeed, the woman must carry out the ritual without embarrassment and most certainly not as an interesting photo-op.
The little village outside the Chimi Lhakhang is a great place to buy all souvenirs of a phallic nature. There was even a photo booth if you choose to see what your face might look like on a giant pink phallus.
Our last stop for the day was the Punakha Dzong, the palace of great happiness and bliss & the winter capital of Bhutan. It is the second largest and second oldest Dzong in Bhutan located between the Mo Chhu (female) and Pho Chhu (male) river in Punakha valley. Entry to the Dzong complex requires crossing an ancient wooden bridge across the river. Then a brief walk through a garden and you're faced with a steep flight of stairs leading up to the entrance of the palace. Once inside, you witness the same intricate artwork and architecture as the other places across Bhutan.
The drive back to Thimpu took us back past the Dochula Pass. Catching a glimpse of a beautiful sunset cutting through the cloud cover, we quickly stopped in the hope of capturing a picture, but the setting sun was too quick for us.
Early the next morning we set off on the long drive back to the border of Bhutan. Along the way, we stopped by the side of the road to eat our breakfast neatly packed by the hotel - a boiled egg, a sandwich and fruit juice. A couple of hours later, we stopped for a bite at a the Highway Host Café, a really cozy place with a nice view of the. valley below. We ordered some coffee, butter tea and some really tasty bakery items. Here again, there was no charge for the guides.
After a long, long drive, we were back where we began. Our passports checked and the required formalities completed, our guide and driver accompanied us across the border and back into the crowded, noisy & bustling border town of Alipurdwar, the gateway to Bhutan.
Again, the immediate difference was quite hard hitting....just a few steps took us from pretty architecture, clean streets and minimal population, to chaos, crowds and the usual hustle-bustle that is typical of Indian towns. Sonam and Rigzin finally got out of the Gho that was the only outfit they wore in all their time with us. While we made our way onwards towards the next destination, these young men would be staying the night in town before, once again, accompanying another pair of tourists already assigned to them.
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| Sonam and Rigzin...simply the best guys to show you around Bhutan! |
These new tourists, also an Indian couple, I was later informed, were a rather crabby, disinterested pair. I'm glad we were liked and well-behaved.
A few last words as we leave Bhutan....
We were truly impressed with a lot in Bhutan.
The wonderful arrangement made for the tourist guides to ensure their well-being. All restaurants & cafés, large and small, are instructed to provide nutritious meals to all guides accompanying tourists. Free of cost.
The person's happiness is given a lot of importance in Bhutan. Bhutan's Gross National Happiness (GNH) Index is a measure of the country's overall happiness and well-being. The index is based on surveys that ask people about their level of sufficiency in various domains of life. Did you know, they actually have an entire department looking into the GNH. Wow!
It's wonderful how the people are so generous with their time and services towards their country. Be it road repairs or maintenance of their monuments and monasteries, the people offer service with a smile and song.
......the journey continues.
