Seven Trek to Ahupe Ghat

Date:  August 14, 2016

Route: Dadar -- Kalyan -- Khopivali -- Ahupe Ghat  

This Independence weekend saw an exodus of city-dwellers heading for the hills. Mahabaleshwar…Mhateran…Lonavala….every booking site I checked had only one thing to say – SOLD OUT! SOLD OUT! SOLD OUT! That being the case, there was no question of us putting up our feet and sleeping in a hammock at some hill-station. So, we put our feet to better use….we decided to spend the eve of Independence on a one-day trek. Then began a search for an interesting location….one that none of us had ever attempted. Reading our conversation on What’sApp one would bring to mind the ‘three bears’:

“This location seems too easy…”

“This place is too far…”

“This one is perfect!”

The destination we finally agreed upon was ‘Ahupe Ghat’, located at a height of 3855 ft somewhere in the Murbad region of Maharashtra.

The Seven Amigos

In a matter of two days we put together a small group of seven amigos five of whom, in various stages of sleep and excitement, met at Dadar Station to board the 5.18 local to Kalyan where we were met by our sixth amigo, Viren. The last member of our group, Royston, found it most difficult to wake-up on time and informed us that he was running a little late. Not wanting to lose time, the rest of us decided to wait for him at Deepak Restaurant, a tiny eatery just outside the station, to the West. But Royston wasn’t the only one we were waiting for. Meeting us at Kalyan Station was a Mr. Sandeep (09821874568) whose services we had employed for the day. We thought that getting to the base village slightly squashed in an Ertiga would surely be better than rattling along in an ST bus. We thought right.

Catching up on lost sleep

Our group.....minus one who was sitting in front

Even though many sites spoke of a two hour ride to the base village of Khopivali, we got there in 45 minutes less than that. That was all thanks to nearly deserted streets, and smooth roads. If we ignore the fact that we were packed in like sardines (almost), I’d say the ride was a very comfortable one, winding across bubbling rivers and lush green fields of rice. Suddenly, in the fast reducing distance we saw mountains looming before us – massive stone giants with their head in the clouds. “Is that where we’re going?” The sight was unbelievable! 

Look where we're going!

Khopivali, the base village, is a fairly quiet and small little place with the houses placed quite close together. That’s probably a reflection of the fact that villages are a close-knit community.

No sooner did we ask around for a guide to lead us up to Ahupe Ghat, than we met Prabhakar (09221418423), a simple farmer who earns a living leading people up and down the mountain slopes. Very kindly and in the true spirit of Indian hospitality, he welcomed us into his home so Anthony and Neil could change into more comfortable clothes before we began our ascent.

We walked through the tiny village and waded across a loudly chattering stream and then stood a while gazing up at what we were out to climb. “Hum inme se kaunsi pahad par chad rahe hai? (Which of these mountains are we climbing?)”, said I. “Wo wali (that one),” said our guide, indicating almost all mountain peaks in one sweep of his forefinger.  

And so, around 10 am (a few minutes later than planned) we began our climb, seven excited souls led by a man who tripped up the mountain like a mountain goat. Although there aren’t any steps, there is a clear, albeit narrow path that zigzags all the way up the mountain. For the first couple of minutes we trudged through murky fields after which it was rocks and boulders all the way. It is advisable to stay close, for although you will eventually reach the top if you stay on the path, it is quite easy to lose sight of one another because of the dense foliage all around. Another word of advice; do ensure that your backpacks are lightly packed.  It does get quite tiring an hour into the trek and a heavy bag will only slow you down or break your back.

Even though most of us had carried just a few essentials, we still had to stop now and then to catch our breaths. The thing with climbing up to Ahupe Ghat is that there is no plateau mid-way where one can rest a-while. We only paused at the occasional stream / waterfall to splash some cool water on our flushed faces. It was at such times that we took in the view of the valley far below. The higher we climbed, the more breathtaking the view became.  

A moment of respite

Anthony enjoying the view

 The nature lovers of our group were quite thrilled with the scenic beauty of the place. En route to the top we spotted a variety of crabs, lizards, rocks, leaves and flowers. Clusters of sparkling white mushroom dotted the path at many places. At one spot, almost hidden behind the rock we spotted a most unusual ant hill. It wasn’t like any we had seen before. This one looked like a great, big rose made of clay. 

Another thing that made the climb a pleasure was the absence of any litter. There was absolutely no sign of any trash that callous city-dwellers usually toss around. At a few places we’d previously visited, there were paper-plates, tetra packs and crushed newspaper to be found at regular intervals. That’s such a shame! One of the reasons a trek is enjoyable is that it gives us a chance to leave the madness of the city behind us and enjoy the world as God meant it to be – clean, peaceful and rejuvenating! I have come across trekkers who actually pick up any litter that they find along the way…..truly a laudable act!

We did spy what looked like Buddhist caves cut into the side of the neighboring mountains and came across a few water cisterns and trenches said to have been used by Chattrapati Shivaji’s warriors who practiced guerilla warfare.

There were many moments when we looked up and thought we couldn’t move another step. Our guide would then holler and ask us to look down and keep climbing one-rock-at-a-time. So, still determined to reach the summit, we kept moving forward, sometimes on all fours. For every time we asked Prabhakar, “Aur kitni der lagegi? (How much longer will this take?)”, he had one standard answer, “5 minutes.” 

Those ‘5 minutes’ eventually stretched to 4 long hours of constant climbing and crawling up rocks and waterfalls. At the very start of the trek, Prabhakar had commented on our presence in the group stating that ‘ladies’ tend to slow down the trek. Bearing that in mind, Komal and I kept pushing ourselves to move ahead and, at around a little after 2pm, were the first of our group to clamber onto the summit. Hooray for the ladies! 

No sooner did we land on the plateau at the summit than we lay flat on our backs and shut our eyes soaking in the sense of accomplishment and satisfaction of having completed a trek. Neil did the same while Akshay, Anthony, Viren and Royston tried to get dangerously close to the edge in a bid to see the world spread out at their feet.

It’s a steep drop from up here and it was super windy. It was just then that the heavens decided to grace us with some much needed rain. The view from the summit is truly spectacular. One can get a good view of a gushing waterfall and the almost twin peaks of Gorakhgad and Machindragad that stand like fierce sentinels directly across Ahupe Ghat. 

Yaaaay! We made it!

Ahupe village is on the neighboring plateau which is just a few minutes’ walk away. Here, one can ask for a simple home-cooked meal at any of the villagers’ homes. We opted out of that as we had carried a packed lunch from home. Nothing much, just sandwiches and theplas.

It was as we were feasting like kings (and queens) that we spotted a car in the distance. A car! High up here! Prabhakar very calmly proceeded to tell us that Ahupe Ghat and Ahupe Village are easily accessible by the road which leads to Malshej Ghat.

“Maybe we can ask our driver to come pick us up”, suggested one from our group.

After playing around with the very tempting suggestion for a few seconds we voted in favour of going down the way we had come. So, after about an hour of rest and posing for photographs, we headed back. One would think this would have been easy, but it took us much longer than climbing up. Clambering up a steep incline is tricky, getting back down is even trickier. There are many possibilities of slipping down the slimy, moss-covered rocks. Every time we looked up to see how far we’d reached, we found we were still above the neighboring peaks. But, sliding and slithering we finally found our way back to the river.

We were way behind schedule, so didn’t stop too long at the river, although Anthony did manage to take a dip and I finally took off my boots and washed my sore feet. Akshay and Viren, unfortunately, stepped off track and followed a path that led to another end of the river. Prabhakar was certain that they would find their way to the village, but nonetheless, we insisted he go in search of them while we made our way to Khopivali.

Reunited at the village, we purchased some water and, once again, visited Prabhakar’s humble home to change into a fresh set of clothes. The ones we had on were muddy and drenched in sweat and rainwater. Knowing the villagers are poor and depend on visitors to earn their living, Komal and I gave the woman of the house some money as a token of gratitude for letting us use her home. Prabhakar, being a simple and not very economy-conscious villager, had quoted a fairly low price in exchange for his services as guide, even though he stayed with us for close to 10 hours. Acknowledging his simplicity and the fact that back in our world such services would have burnt a hole in our pockets, we couldn’t find it in us to haggle and paid him a little more than what he had quoted. Even then, it was far less than what any of us would have spent over one meal in Mumbai. Here, in the little village of Khopivali, it meant so much more.

Getting back into the car, we finally headed back to Kalyan station, but this time round we got stuck in traffic for what seemed like ages. Seeing no hope of moving even an inch we alighted at Shahad and boarded the 10.26 fast local heading to CST. While Royston and Viren bid us farewell at Thane, the rest of us went ahead to Dadar and then headed home.

All-in-all, it was an enjoyable and enriching experience. We returned home with more than just sore legs and bruised arms. Here’s what some members of the group have to say …

Neil, our new friend, says, “The best was when I reached the summit, threw down my backpack and lay on the grass with nothing but the sky spread out above me.”

This feeling of exhilaration was shared by Komal, who earns the title of ‘Best Trekker’ not only for being the first to reach the summit but also for her spirit and attitude!

My brother, Anthony shares, “I loved the undergrowth with its myriad flowers and mushrooms. The innumerable waterfalls helped keep us refreshed and cool.” 

Akshay remembers most the refreshing mountain water and has an interesting story to share. He says, “I loved the potable water tank created by the villagers about half-way up the mountain. The tank fills with cool and sweet water from a natural underground source. It’s said that a villager had drunk himself into a stupor while at the peak, and had collapsed at that very spot due to dehydration and a leg injury sustained during his descent. In his desperation and anger, he pushed aside a stone only to discover the natural cistern beneath it.” 

Phew! Thank God for small mercies!

What struck me the most were the flowers that dotted the mountainside, some as tiny as my little fingernail ….they’re surrounded by tough, immovable, gigantic walls of stone, hidden in crevices and clinging on to rocks…high up where only an occasional trekker or villager might glance at them on their way up/down the narrow path…yet they continue to bloom in brilliant colours and dance in the breeze…not for fame or glory…but just because. Now, that's food for thought, isn't it?

Pics by Komal, Anthony & Misha

I’ve been to London to visit the Queen!

Two weeks in London & Scotland
May 6 – 21, 2016

It’s vacation time again and it’s back to packing & unpacking bags. This summer, we decided to go off to London (to visit the Queen). Having completed the necessary visa formalities well in advance, I began to draw up a travel plan while my husband gave all his attention to booking the accommodation & tickets. Having done all that, we eagerly awaited the day of our journey to a place that we’d visited only through the words of writers such as Enid Blyton, Charles Dickens & Wordsworth.

Mumbai à Dubai à London Gatwick Airport

This time around, we flew Emirates and, I must say, it was a great experience. The service was worth appreciating and the flight was very comfortable on account of the ample leg space, wide choice of in-flight entertainment and, of course, meals. Our journey from Mumbai to London’s Gatwick Airport was broken by a 6 hour stop-over in Dubai. We spent the time exploring the extremely opulent airport and browsed through its many department stores before making good use of the Emirates’ complimentary meal ticket to be used at Dubai Airport.

The second leg of our journey lasted about six hours, most of which we spent grabbing our forty winks and watching a couple of movies. (I watched Casablanca. Lovely movie that!)

Finally, exactly on schedule, we landed at Gatwick Airport, went through the Immigration section and were welcomed into London by a gust of cool breeze. Now, 12^o might not seem like much to others, but for us coming from a 35^o hot Mumbai, it was like….brrrrrr!

Gatwick Airport à East Croydon à Crystal Palace

Strangely, other than a few Route maps at the exits, there weren’t any tourist information booths at the airport. So, after perusing the map for a while, we took the Gatwick Express (£10.4) and got off at East Croydon. Here, we did something that proved to be very sensible and useful – we got our selves pre-paid travel cards known as Oyster Cards. Using these we took the coach (Route 41) to Crystal Palace. 

Crystal Palace Rail Station

Church Road, Crystal Palace

This residential area in south London is named after a former local landmark that stood in the area from 1854 to 1936. After the Crystal Palace burned down, its site was converted into what is today, the Crystal Palace Park.

Inside Crystal Palace Park

This park, one of the largest in London, houses the National Sports Center and still contains dinosaur statues which date back to 1854. The quiet streets of Crystal Palace are lined with interesting establishments, pubs & eating houses. One of my favorites was the Brown & Green Café (99, Church Road). 

You must try the B&G Breakfast priced at £6.95.

Breakfast at B&G 

It’s delicious and good to keep you going until lunch time. Chi Oriental (19 Westow Hill) is great for its Chinese fare; especially the salt & pepper spare ribs. Do note that it is customary to leave a 10% tip at restaurants while in London. The same applies to cabs. 

Our accommodation – Euro Queen’s Hotel 

For the duration of our stay in London, we had booked ourselves into the Euro Queen’s Hotel (122, Church Road), an establishment that seems to be very popular with the tourists, judging by the number of them constantly standing at the reception counter with their bags.  Check-in is at 2 pm, which was quite a bother since we’d arrived there at 11.40 and having nothing to do, had to wait in the lobby. Initially, we were directed to a room in one of the many that are located below ground level / the basement. It was carpeted et al, but we just couldn’t get ourselves to look beyond the fact that the room had no windows save for a vent in one corner near the ceiling. Just the thought of entering the room triggered a feeling of claustrophobia and we immediately asked for a change of room. At this moment, we were greatly helped by one of the Senior Managers, Mr. Munir; a jovial, helpful and extremely interesting personality. With his assistance we were promptly directed to a much brighter and cheerful room on level four. It had large windows overlooking the main street even while it blocked all external noise.

Our room in The Euro Queen's Hotel

All-in-all, the Queen’s Hotel provides really decent accommodation (I’m ignoring the basement rooms when I say this) at very affordable rates. Rooms are clean and are equipped with an electric kettle & 24 hr hot water. The staff is friendly and helpful. Wi-Fi can be availed of at £3 for a period of 24 hours. The only drawback was that there is just one power outlet. This meant that we had to take turns charging our respective cell phones and laptops.

After a quick shower and change into fresh clothes, we stepped out to explore London….and let me begin by saying, it was exactly as the books of my childhood described it – the cloudy skies, the trees of varied colored foliage, the pretty houses with their little backyards and chimneys, and the quintessential red bus that makes its way all across the city. And what pretty names! Gipsy Hill….Trafalgar Square….Charring Cross…

As we soon discovered, it is extremely easy to get around London. It has an excellent rail and coach/bus service and, if you have any difficulty following the maps, you will find that the British are quick to point the way, if you ask them. Our first evening, we discovered that Crystal Palace station is to London what Bandra is to Mumbai. It’s centrally located and connects two major stations, namely, London Victoria and London Bridge. To begin with, we headed to the former.

London Victoria is a bustling and well organized station. You just can’t get bored here. While you wait for your train, you can grab a bite at one of the many restaurants or browse through the pages of the newspapers that are available free of cost. Before I go on with the wonderful sights of London, here’s a pic’ of my tourist map, to help create a clearer picture.

Tourist Map of London

Key Bus Routes in London

It might seem easier to take the tube around town, but, if you really want to see London, I’d suggest you walk around as far as possible. The sites are not really as far apart as they seem on the map.

 From London Victoria, one can use the over ground train service, head to the tube station or walk towards many popular tourist destinations. At first, we walked along aimlessly, admiring the beauty of the city. Everything was so…..er…British! It was wonderful, the feeling of being in a foreign land and yet finding everything so familiar. If you’ve grown up with British authors as companions you’ll understand what I mean to say.

Anyway, following the map, we walked past the Royal Mews and headed towards Buckingham Palace and the very imposing Victoria Memorial that stands in front of it.

Buckingham Palace is the official London residence and official headquarters of the reigning monarch of the United Kingdom. This palace has 775 rooms and its well-sculpted garden is the largest in London. 

Buckingham palace & the Victoria Memorial

The Victoria Memorial, unveiled in 1911, is a monument dedicated to Queen Victoria, the first monarch to reside at Buckingham Palace. At the top of the monument, on a globe, stands the gilded statue of Winged Victory. The statue of an enthroned Queen Victoria was placed facing the city, flanked on either side by Truth & Justice. At nearly 25 meters (82 ft) tall, the Victoria Memorial remains the tallest monument to a King or Queen in England. 

We sat awhile, admiring the grandiosity of the Victoria Memorial and the beauty of the garden before heading back to the hotel for much needed rest.

Two Museums and the Royal Albert Hall

Day two saw us taking a bus from London Victoria to the museum sector. Now, if you look closely at the map, you’ll see that it this area has three museums standing shoulder-to shoulder. We planned to visit all three, but could do only two. There’s so much to see in each of them that it sort of tires you out if you try doing them all at once. That’s what happened to us.

We first stopped at the Victoria & Albert Museum, the world’s largest museum of decorative arts & design.  

V&A Museum

Its collection spans 5,000 years of art, from ancient times to the present day, from the ancient cultures of the world. There are large displays of various items like weapons, silverware, ceramics, fabrics and paintings. The museum owns the world's largest collection of post-classical sculpture and Renaissance art. I don’t usually go ga-ga over ornaments, but the jewelry display had me sincerely wishing I were royalty. Everything was so sparkly and pretty…..tiaras, rings, necklaces, hair pins….sigh!

The Natural History Museum that stands across the street exhibits a large collection showcasing various segments of natural history.

The Natural History Museum

The museum is home to life and earth science specimens comprising some 80 million items. My husband found this museum interesting. I preferred the V&A.

Oh, let me not forget to inform you that entry to both museums is absolutely free.

For lunch, we feasted on burgers and ice-cream available outside the Museum, but that was before we visited the Natural History Museum.

Flipping burgers outside the Natural History Museum

Having had our fill of museums, we skipped the Science Museum (standing beside the Natural History Museum) and took a leisurely walk towards the Royal Albert Hall (south Kensington). Since its opening by Queen Victoria in 1871, the Royal Albert Hall has become one of the most treasured and distinctive buildings of the UK. After sipping on coffee at the Hall’s in-house café, we walked around the Hall towards the Albert Monument situated in Kensington Garden, directly across the street from the Royal Albert Hall.

The Royal Albert Hall

It was commissioned by Queen Victoria in memory of her husband, Prince Albert who had died of typhoid in 1861. The monument depicts the gilt bronze statue of Prince Albert ceremoniously seated facing the Royal Albert Hall. This signifies his interest in creating a permanent facility for the enlightenment of the public.

The Albert Memorial

Walking across Kensington Garden, we stopped to admire the Kensington Palace before boarding a bus back to London Victoria.

Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square and a lot of walking

Back outside London Victoria, armed with my city-map, we decided to skip the bus and walk towards Westminster Abbey. En route, we stepped into the Westminster Cathedral, the mother church of the Catholic Church in England & Wales. This beautiful cathedral is a striped brick and stone structure that was opened to the public in 1903. We said a quick prayer and continued our walk towards Westminster Abbey, one of the most notable religious buildings in the UK.

Westminster Abbey

It is said to have been founded in the year 960 (WOW!) and is the location of coronations, royal weddings and burials of British monarchs. The Abbey has so much of history. Entry tickets (inclusive of an audio guide) are priced at £20 and the Abbey volunteers are always on hand to answer queries or provide information. For me it was like walking through time. We stood at the graves of kings and queens we’d studied about. Walking through Poet’s Corner was almost like shaking hands with the likes of Lewis Carroll, Geoffrey Chaucer and the Bronte sisters, all of whom we’d only ever met through their writings. A great number of poets, writers and artists are interred and commemorated in Poet’s Corner. For me, a student of English Literature and History, walking through the Abbey and Poet’s Corner was akin to walking on hallowed ground. I would have liked to capture the moments on film, but, photography is not permitted inside the Abbey. 

Courtyard inside Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey is also home to the Coronation Chair, an oaken throne that has been used in every British coronation ever since that of Henry IV in 1399. The Coronation Chair is said to be the oldest dated piece of English furniture created sometime between 1297-1300. 
Right beside the Abbey is the famous Big Ben, the Great Bell of the clock at the North end of the Palace of Westminster.

Capturing Big Ben

We sat listening to the chimes of Big Ben as we ate a very messy hot-dog. (I spilled mustard all over my clothes and, for the rest of the evening, had to walk around with my bag held in front of me to cover the ugly, yellow stain. What a royal mess!)

From here, one can see the London Eye, the giant Ferris wheel on the south bank of the River Thames.

A view of Parliament Square with Big Ben and the London Eye in the distance

It is Europe’s tallest Ferris wheel and offers the highest public viewing point in London. We decided to give it a miss because it was quite a cloudy day and we didn’t think there’d be much to see from up there with all the rain. We turned back towards the Abbey, took a long walk passing 10 Downing Street and found ourselves standing at Trafalgar Square with Nelson looking down at us from atop his 51.59 m high sandstone column.

Trafalgar Square as seen from the British Museum

This Square, commemorating the Battle of Trafalgar is an important landmark and is used for public gatherings and political demonstrations.  We briefly visited the British Museum, after which we sat around, observing the various artists and street performers that are a constant fixture at the Square.

The Tower of London & the Tower Bridge

The next day was dedicated completely to exploring some more of Britain’s rich (and gory) history. Heading towards London Bridge Station on a rainy & cloudy day, we followed our map, towards what was marked as London Bridge. Then, walking along the really modern promenade along the Thames, we made our way towards the Tower Bridge. 

The Thames and the Tower Bridge

Built in 1886, this combined bascule and suspension bridge crosses the River Thames close to the Tower of London. Like the Big Ben, the Tower Bridge is an iconic symbol of London. The twin towers of the Bridge, the high-level walkways and Victorian engine rooms are all part of the Tower Bridge Exhibition.

The Tower Bridge

The Bridge deck is, however, freely accessible to both vehicles and pedestrians. From here, you get a lovely view of the – to your left. Then, look to your right and you’ll see the historic Tower of London still standing strong, surrounded by modern structures of chrome and glass. No sooner did I step onto the Tower Bridge than I was hit by the sweet fragrance of vanilla laced with caramel. A vendor was selling hot, caramelized peanuts at £2 a cup. Greedy pup that I am, I quickly purchased a cup full and proceeded to eat them. They seemed to be quite a hit with many around me, but I didn’t like them too much really. Can’t quite remember why, so feel free to ignore my opinion and try some caramelized peanuts on your way to the Tower of London.

The Tower of London across the River Thames

The visit to the Tower of London was, by far, the best part of our trip to the UK and, even if history does nothing for you, you simply must visit the Tower. The Tower that gives this entire castle its name was built by William the Conqueror in 1078 and, until 1952, this castle was used as a prison. Early in its history, it served as a royal residence. Today, individual entry passes cost £25 for access to the Tower and the Crown Jewels display, exhibitions including Coins and Kings and Line of Kings, plus the Yeoman Warder guided tour, live historical re-enactments,

The White Tower

Tower tour, children's activity trails and much more! Individual rate ticket prices include a voluntary donation. The audio guide is charged an additional £4. I’d suggest you take the audio guide as it really gives you a lot of information that you’ll never get exploring the castle on your own.

We began with the very interesting Yeoman Tour. Leading us to the Royal Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, he told us some of the gory details of the castle’s history, the bloody executions and beheadings. Following this, we made good use of our audio guides and spent the day exploring the castle. It was an unforgettable experience that was only heightened by the background music and information provided by the audio guide. My favorite part was standing at Tower Green, the space within the castle where those of noble birth were executed away from the eyes of the gawping crowds.

The Scaffold Site

The scaffold site is marked by an evocative memorial dedicated to those who died here. I loved the epitaph that was engraved around this memorial;

‘Gentle visitor pause awhile: where you stand death cut away the light of many days: here jeweled names were broken from the vivid thread of life: may they rest in peace while we walk the generations around their strife and courage: under these restless skies’.

Guided by the audio commentary, I moved away from the scaffold site and climbed the narrow, winding stairs of the Beauchamp Tower. This tower was used for housing really important Tudor prisoners and the walls of the first floor rooms are filled with graffiti left by them. The audio guide narrated tales about these unfortunate men and women, explaining their plight and the horror of standing at the window overlooking the scaffold site. I listened to the bone-chilling account and looked out the very same window, not realizing that the other tourists in the room had long since left. I was alone in the room where grief, pain and longing for freedom hung heavy in the air. Overcome by a sudden chill running down my spine, I hurriedly made for the stairs and was relieved to step out into the open again. 

The Queen's House

It was through the audio guide that I also learned about the Ravens of the Tower. A group of six captive ravens are permanent residents of the Tower. Superstition holds that if the ravens ever leave the tower or fly away from it, the Crown would fall and Britain with it. To avoid this, the flight feathers on one wing are clipped, thus preventing the ravens from flying away.  Apparently, the huge birds are very well cared for, but I still couldn’t help feeling sorry for them. Ravens, like all other birds, are meant for the skies. I thought it was rather cruel to clip their wings and bind them to one place. I suppose you could say that the Tower is still used as a prison of sorts.

Ravens apart, there is much I could write about the Tower of London and my experiences therein, but it is one of those experiences that cannot be completely expressed in words. You simply must visit it for yourselves. Photography is permitted everywhere except in the Jewel House, where the Crown Jewels are displayed.

Salisbury, Stonehenge & Old Sarum

Day saw us heading out to Salisbury and Stonehenge.

The medieval town of Salisbury

The train to Salisbury can be boarded from Waterloo, for a return ticket priced at approximately £35. From just outside Salisbury station, you can board the bus that takes you to historic Stonehenge. We, however, walked into the picturesque little medieval town and boarded the bus at the City Center (£28 for a round trip to Stonehenge & Old Sarum, inclusive of the Stonehenge audio guide).

The Stonehenge Tour Bus

You are also treated to a fascinating commentary whilst meandering through beautiful Wiltshire countryside to the historic sites of Stonehenge and Old Sarum. Upon arrival this ticket allows you fast track access to the Stones site to beat the queues.

Stonehenge, a prehistoric monument 8 miles north of Salisbury, is set in the middle of the most dense complex of Neolithic and Bronze Age monuments and burial mounds in England.

The tour bus drops you off at the Stonehenge Visitor Center, form where you collect your audio guides and board the shuttle to cover the 1.5 mile distance to Stonehenge. Another option, and definitely a more interesting one, would be to do what we did. We asked the driver to get us off half way and cut across a field as we made our way to the environmentally-sensitive center of Stonehenge. Standing there on the periphery of the ancient circle was an experience that moved us. As we looked up at the massive blocks of stone, the heavens decided grace us with a steady drizzle.

There we were, lost in time, small in comparison to the massive stones surrounded by green fields for as far as the eye could see. It’s very easy to ignore the fairly busy highway that cuts through the lush, green landscape not very far from the stones. Here again, time stands still even as the rest of the world moves on. It is a really beautiful place, steeped in time. The circular formation of stones seems to have stood untouched over the ages. The experience is enriched by the information provided through the audio guide.

Old Sarum is the site of the earliest settlement at Salisbury, in England, located on a hill about 2 miles north of modern-day Salisbury. Today, all that remains are ruins, but it’s worth a visit because the views of the surrounding countryside are really something. From atop the ruins of the Old Sarum I could see Salisbury in the distance, with the spire of the Salisbury Cathedral standing tall and proud. In the Beauchamp Tower at the Tower of London, I could feel the unrest of harrowed souls. Here, in Old Sarum, there was nothing but peace and serenity. It was a scene fit for a postcard. 

View  of Salisbury from Old Sarum

Back in town, we paid a quick visit to the Salisbury Cathedral, an awe-inspiring structure built between 1220 -1320. Since we got there after closing time, we couldn’t tour the tower and the inner recesses of the Cathedral, but the lawns and inner courtyard were accessible. The cathedral has the tallest church spire in the UK, the largest cloister and cathedral close in Britain, the oldest working clock (think AD1356) and the best surviving of the four original copies of the Magna Carta. 

Salisbury Cathedral

Visiting Sherlock

The trip to Salisbury and back had us feeling rather tired, so all we did on day six was pay a visit to the most famous address in the world, 221 B, Baker Street. This is the London address for the famous fictional detective created by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

The Sherlock Holmes Museum is a privately owned museum dedicated to the fictional Mr. Holmes (entry, £15). It consists of a little store that sells all things ‘Sher-locked’ and the supposed residence of Mr. Holmes who, according to the books, were known to have resided on the first floor of a lodging house above a flight of 17 steps. Dr. Watson is believed to have lived on the floor above. Any Sherlock fan will truly appreciate this museum. The apartment at 221B, Baker St. has been well-preserved and showcases the life of Mr. Holmes and the many cases he’s known to have worked on. Even the museum staff is dressed like maids of old. The main door is mainly used by tourists for selfies. Access to the apartment can be gained only through the museum entrance. Not being aware of this, my husband pulled open the main door and stepped out, startling the tourists who were standing outside half expecting Sherlock to make an appearance, complete with his deer-stalker hat and pipe.

Inside the Sherlock Museum

Off to Edinburgh

Crystal Palace à London Victoria à Tottenham Hale à Stansted Airport à Edinburgh

Getting to Tottenham Hale needed us to take the Overground followed by the Tube after which, we boarded the Stansted Express (£18) to the airport. An hour’s wait and we were off to Edinburgh, the Scottish capital. The city has long been known as a centre of education and festivals. It’s easy to get to the city centre from the airport. Just hop aboard the Airlink at £4.5 per person. Do bear in mind that you must carry exact change for travel around Edinburgh. Drivers do not carry change and so, you will not be given any. Be prepared. 

My first view of Edinburgh

We thought Edinburgh was like something that had popped out of a fairy tale. Everything looked so ancient…and brown. Like the entire city had been dipped into a pot of golden honey.

We had booked our accommodation at Ivy Guest House (7 Mayfield Gardens). The rooms here are large, bright and very comfortable. The proprietor checks you in, hands you your set of keys and leaves you in peace for the rest of your stay. 

Ivy Guest House

From here it’s a ten-minute bus ride to the City Center and the bus-stop is right across the street from the Guest House (£1.10 per head). If you plan to make multiple use of the bus during the day, pick up a day pas (£4) from the driver.

Edinburgh Castle is a historic fortress that stands atop Castle Rock. The site has been occupied since the late Bronze Age; buildings of the present-day castle date back to the 12^th Century and are still in use today. It is Scotland’s most visited paid tourist attraction (£16.5 for an entry ticket. Audio guides are available for an additional price). 

Edinburgh Castle

Although not as captivating as the Tower of London, this castle is fascinating in its own right and commands awe. The comprehensive map of the castle made it quite easy for us to find our way around.

The city of Edinburgh grew around the Castle Rock and the house building continued down what is today known as, the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile acquired its name over the ages as kings, queens and royalty have traveled to and fro along this street between the Edinburgh Castle and the Holyrood Castle, the residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Today, the Royal Mile is lined with restaurants, souvenir shops and stores selling kilts and scarves. There are also many museums, one of which we found very fascinating – The Museum of Childhood (42 High St, Royal Mile).

This museum that houses a collection of toys and playthings was the first museum in the world to specialize in the history of childhood.

The collection, which ranges from the 18th to the 21st century, was originally the work of Patrick Murray (1908-1981), an Edinburgh Councilor and passionate collector of toys and childhood memorabilia. At first glance, it looked like a little room with a couple of toys displayed in large glass cabinets. Moving ahead, I discovered that the Museum was spread across three floors, each of which was a wonderland in itself. There were dolls, board games, doll-houses, miniatures, books and so much more. Almost everything brought back such fond memories of childhood. 

 I’d read about Golliwogs in the many tales by Enid Blyton, but never ever had I ever seen one. Here, right in front of me, were not one, but three handsome golliwogs. Oh my!

The more time I spent down memory lane the more I pitied the children of today whose childhood is trapped within their cell phones and computers. Be sure to take your kids to this museum. The entry is free and the experience is priceless.

The Loch Ness & Highland Tour

For £45 per person, we boarded the tour bus operated by the Grey Line tour service and started off on a day-long bus ride that took us through the Scottish Highlands, to Loch Ness and back. There are other tour operators, but we chose this one because it included a pick-up from our hotel, free Wi-Fi and a drop back to the hotel or to the point nearest to it. This basic tour doesn’t make too many stops, but the driver, Brian, who doubled up as tour guide, made the trip very interesting with his unending commentary about the highlands and the various sites we passed by. Not only did we witness the spectacular, rugged beauty of the Highlands, but also learned about William Wallace, Scottish Kilts and the Massacre at Glen Coe. Brian punctuated his commentary with a beautifully haunting song about the massacre and proceeded to inform us that the story of the massacre was what George R.R Martin used as a base for scripting the Red Wedding in the Game of Thrones. 

The Highlands

We drove by castles and glens and bens. We drove past the wide expanse used in the filming of the James Bond movie as Adele’s ‘Skyfall’ played over the speakers in the bus. Finally, we arrived at Loch Ness. A quick lunch at one of the restaurants by the dock and we were ready to board the Cruise-boat (ticket, £15-13 per person). The hour-long cruise provides stunning vistas of the area surrounding Loch Ness and the guides are quick to provide information of the local wild life and of Nessie, the Loch Ness monster. 

Exploring Loch Ness

On our way back to Edinburgh, the bus followed a different route, with Brian telling us more about the Highlands and its history.

Back in Edinburgh, we relaxed a bit in the many pubs that are scattered around everywhere. Everyone here seems to be in love with their beer and whiskey. One trip to a pub and I fell in love with them as well. They have an unending list of the types of beer and whiskey available – it was very confusing as I knew nothing about anything. I made up my mind then to educate myself about beer and whiskey as soon as I got back home to Mumbai.

Back to London

After three eventful days in Edinburgh, we went back to London the same way we had left…by flight. That seems a great way to save time if, like us, you’re around for a short while. Once again, we checked into the Queen’s Hotel. This time around, thanks once again to the kind consideration of Mr. Munir, we were shown to an even better room than the one we had previously occupied.

Our last two days in London were spent walking along Piccadilly Circus and between Oxford Street and Covent Garden, completing some last minute shopping for friends and family. This section of the3 city has plenty of department stores with almost everything you’ve got down in your shopping list. Browsing through the stores here is a good idea if the super expensive and super hoity-toity Harrods is not for your wallet. On our final evening, we had just enough time (and money) left to visit Hyde Park and take in its beauty. It is quite a pretty park, but I found it less interesting when compared to Central Park in NY.

Here, in Hyde Park, there seemed to be a lot of wide, open spaces. Not something I like much. In fact, I felt rather uncomfortable and felt a strong need to escape the park and do something other than walk on a seemingly unending expanse of grass.

All-in-all, the UK trip was one of my more leisurely ones. The stress levels were almost absent and London was everything we had expected it to be. Looking at the natural beauty around I could easily understand why Britain gave birth to so many poets and writers. And it’s such a joy to hear the British speak! The accent is pure music to the ears. As said by someone, ‘if I could speak in a British accent, I’d never stop talking.’

Pics' by Misha & Akshay
(except for the maps of London)