A Foggy Weekend at Mahabaleshwar

This in one post that has been long overdue as this particular doctor’s visit to Mahabaleshwar was undertaken sometime in August. My brother and I suddenly came up with the idea of getting out for the weekend and in less than 24 hours we were driving out towards Mahabaleshwar. Yes, I have been here before and there’s already a post about this quaint hill station, but our experience this time was totally unexpected and absolutely awesome! Quite a few firsts for me this time….

To begin with, it was my first experience of driving along the Expressway and having my car tyre go BLAM! Avoiding the cars zipping by, we slowly maneuvered to the side of the road and looked around for someone who could fix the damage. You might say we were lucky to stop right outside some kind on industrial site where two employees were chatting right by the gate. Seeing we were in a spot, they rushed to our aid and after checking the most definitely deceased tyre, asked us if we had a spare. We did, but that one was almost flat itself. Still, it managed to get us to the Food Mall 7 kms away.

That’s where I first got to see how a car tyre is fixed. I know nothing about cars so I can’t really explain it well enough, but I was fascinated by that machine that pops out the tyre and then fits one on again…with a little popping sound.

Having got the car back in action, we continued the long drive towards Mahabaleshwar. There’s something about the place we quite like. It’s changed since the years it functioned as the summer getaway for the British, but it has still managed to hold on to its old world charm. Driving past the busy little town of Panchgani, we stopped at Mapro gardens for lunch. Mum, who was visiting Mahabaleshwar for the first time quite liked the place although she found it a little chilly. We feasted on pizzas and some potato soup, clicked a few pictures, purchased an armful of Mapro products and then continued our journey. Oh, and this was about the first time I didn’t click any pictures along the way…which is why I’m having to make do with the squiggles and doodles that are gracing this particular write-up. But don’t worry, my trusty camera did find some use later.

The weather got cooler as we entered Mahabaleshwar. To our surprise, almost all the houses and buildings were covered from roof to floor with sheets of plastic, palm leaves and cane mats. 

The Town Square

Seemed a little eerie at first….until we turned into the lane leading to the MTDC Resort. The entire tree-lined lane was hidden by a dense fog…the first I’d ever seen or experienced. It was just around 2 in the afternoon, but as dark as after sundown already.

We first catch sight of the fog

At once, we jumped out of the car to see what a fog felt like. Mum stayed put in the car and it was quite a task to get her to step out. You see, mum watches too much of those creepy crime shows so she now expects murderers and villains everywhere. She kept urging us to get back in the car before, I quote, ‘someone steps out of the fog, murders us and throws us by the side of the road.’

Driving out at night

The rooms at MTDC were wonderfully large, but miserably damp and musty. Apparently, that’s the reason why everyone here covers their homes with plastic during the monsoons. It’s to keep the fog from entering the houses and ruining the walls and the furniture. So, for around four long months the houses stay covered. Hubby and I like peace and quiet, so we booked two cottages away from the reception and dining area. Everything looked like a scene straight out of a Bollywood-style horror flick.

Towards our cottage

Our cottage.

Mum, with her over-imaginative mind bundled herself up into bed and kept her ears out for any suspicious sound that broke through the cold and silence. When we stepped out to explore Bombay Point which was the closest to where we were staying, we were thrilled to find it absolutely deserted. The last time I’d been there, it was crowded and loud. Tourists chatted loudly; horses trotted about with children on their backs, food stalls were doing great business. Today, it was like the ghost towns we read about in old westerns. The fog was so dense; we couldn't see more than a few meters ahead of us. Every little sound was magnified in the eerie silence and, (this time I had to agree with mum) the sounds seemed to get closer and closer. Mum, bro and I huddled up together in the gazebo while my adventurous husband decided to explore and click some snaps. I was secretly quite relieved when he returned and we drove back into town.

Under the Gazebo

Again, the streets were almost deserted, although some tourists ambled around and made their purchases at the few shops that were open for business. Having not much to do, we drove down to Old Mahabaleshwar and sat awhile at the ancient Panchganga Temple where the stones under your feet are always cool even in the hot Indian summers. Since it began to rain just as we stepped out, we stopped at a tea stall and sipped on some steaming hot tea and coffee.

Chai

I sat watching a senior gentleman dressed in kurta-pajama, vest, scarf and skull cap as he took a small bunch of tourists around the temple complex and told them about its history and architecture. I had to smile. ‘Here is a beautiful and simple example of the ‘unity in diversity’ we talk about in India’, I said to myself.

Early the next morning, bro and I went for a nice, hour long Ayurvedic massage while mum stayed back with the assurance that her brave son-in-law was asleep in the adjoining cottage and would rush to her rescue in the event that some murderous villain decided to attack her. After breakfast at the Resort cafe, we decided to brave the fog and drive around to see what we could of some of the popular points.

Exploring Mahabaleshwar on foot

Driving through the fog was an entirely surreal experience especially because it held an element of risk and danger. Where we could admire the valleys far below, this time all we could see was fog, fog and fog for as far as the eyes could see. It was so cold, why; there was frost even on my brother’s eyelashes!

Jack Frost

Driving back towards Mumbai, we stopped once again at Mapro Gardens for a bite and then sat chatting about how wonderful the fog was. Mum was the happiest to get out of Mahabaleshwar even though (as she admitted much later) she did enjoy the trip. She’s more of a summer creature and prefers the sun and crowds of noisy people for company. We asked her if she’d like to visit the place in December. Her answer was silence accompanied by a stern glare in our direction.

The rest of us are keen to return during the next monsoon season for we had great fun and enjoyed our selves tremendously. 

Pics by Misha & Akshay

Exploring Goa....again!

After a hectic few months at work this particular visit to Goa was exactly what I needed to unwind. This time, unlike many times before, we actually managed to get train tickets and spent close to 12 hours aboard the Mandovi Express that leaves from CST (formerly VT) at 7.15 am. The journey was long and uneventful but the changing view outside the window was quite refreshing, as were the many snacks sold aboard the train. 

Personally, I usually prefer to travel by the Konkan Kanya Express that leaves close to 11 pm. Since it’s a night train, the length of the journey doesn't seem too tedious. And, best of all, being an early riser, I thoroughly enjoy the sights of Goa that begin to grow visible with the dawn. Those early hours of gazing at the coconut and cashew trees, whitewashed churches and tiled roofs never fail to fill me with an inner peace and a sense of being home. The more familiar the sights the happier and lighter I feel. Unfortunately, by the time the Mandovi Express choo-choos into Goa, it’s nearing sunset and not much is visible outside.

On reaching Margao a little after 9 pm. we were met by two of my favorite people with whom we headed straight for a rustic little restaurant called Durigo and feasted on yummy Goan delicacies of pork amsol, squid butter-garlic, sorpatel and sannas. Durigo, like many other goan restaurants, is a family-run establishment with a regular Portuguese style villa in front and the restaurant in a shed at the back. The food here is fairly good, but the portions are extremely small. Having filled our bellies, we headed home and crashed into bed.

Early next morning, after meeting family and exchanging hugs and hellos, we rode our bikes towards Netravalli, a remote, little village around 2 hours away from Margao, I think. It's an easy route to follow thanks to the many signboards pointing the way. The road is narrow and in extremely good condition.

For most part, the route took us through open fields and what looked like forests. It was an extremely pleasant ride, especially when travelled by bike. The weather was absolutely perfect for the long, long ride. We made just two stops en route...one for a cup of tea and the other to stock up on beer and rum, for no picnic in Goa is complete without 'fuel'. 

Once we got to our destination, chewing on sugarcane stolen from the fields that lined the road, we parked our vehicles and began a 30-45 minute walk through the forest alongside a river that although almost dry now, is flooded during the monsoons.

Thus, clambering over boulders, wading through forest streams and climbing over fallen trees we finally found what we had come in search of, the waterfall.  

Apart from us and another small group of boys there was absolutely no one else in that wonderfully shaded slice of Heaven. Soon, stripping down to our swimwear, some of us dived into the ice-cold pool and spent a good time swimming and splashing about before heading back the way we had come. Along the way we spotted some snakes that watched us from their throne around the gnarled trees.

Around 10 minutes away is a little village where we had asked for lunch to be prepared at one of the street-side restaurants. Gurukrupa Hotel is more like a shack by the beach actually and doubles up as a grocery store for the village. There are just two simple tables that seat a total of eight people, which was just right for us. The meal served was simple, yet wholesome - rice, fish curry, salad, cluster beans, pickle, fried fish and sol-kadi (a delicious beverage made with kokum, water, chilies and coriander). Having licked our platters clean we rode back towards home.

Somewhere along the way we took a detour and went to explore what's left of some ancient rock sculptures. They're a series of abstract and random figures that have been carved into the rock surface at our feet.

They depict animals, human figures and geometric shapes. Right across this spot is a Kushavati Spice Plantation (contact: 8806329311) that caters to many tourists. The farm is full of betel nut trees and various other spice trees and bushes. Visitors can also stay here although one has to book much in advance. One can also purchase honey and various spices.

The next afternoon, our group (with a few more members) drove three hours towards the north of Goa to spend the night at Raut Farms, at Sal- Goa (contact: 9420818646), a remote yet pretty farm somewhere on the border between Goa and Maharashtra.

The rooms here are clean, large and airy, and, thankfully, lack the presence of the idiot box. There’s a large, well-kept lawn where the boys played a game of football and two little swimming pools for those who’d like to take a dip. Apart from this, there are many fruit trees and also a little river and brightly colored paddle-boats.

Having carried some marinated chicken with us, we set up our barbeque and had a jolly good time grilling and eating the bird before dinner was served.

The meal which has to be ordered in advance was placed at the table outside our rooms and we shared a delicious, typically-Goan meal together. This was followed by a lovely bonfire and then, bed. 

Early the next morning, my cousin and I jumped into the ice-cold pool which, at that time of the morning was absolutely deserted. The others came in much later by which time we were bathed and had hung our bathing suits out to dry.

For breakfast we walked across the lawn to what serves as the farm kitchen and were served plates of hot chana bhajji and bread, an all-time favorite, and steaming cups of tea.

Post lunch, we drove to Goa’s famous Bondla Zoo (contact: 0832-2935800).

Although not overly spectacular, I must admit that the Bondla Zoo is far better than the Rani Baug of Mumbai. The animals and birds look healthy and their enclosures are quite large unlike the cramped and smelly cages of the zoo in Mumbai.

 Among others, the zoo houses two magnificent tigers, a couple of leopards, wild boars, snakes and the Gaur, the state animal of Goa. There are well manicured lawns and fairly clean picnic areas. Tourist can spend the night in one of the many cottages and forest lodges in the sanctuary. Many large deer and friendly monkeys roam around freely, so don’t be surprised if one of them comes over to greet you.

By the time we got home that evening, I was absolutely exhausted and wanted nothing more than a nice, warm bath and my bed. All that was left for me to really complete my trip was to sit awhile at Colva Beach, another place that, for me, spells serenity. I did that the very next evening.

That was about all the exploring I could manage this time since I couldn't take more time off from work then. Have already begun working on a list of off-d-beaten-track places of Goa that I hope to explore the next time I feel the urge to escape the rush and grind of Mumbai.

Pics by Misha.