It’s
that time of the year when I get so overwhelmed with the rush of life and I
simply had to have a break. At such times, nothing soothes my frayed nerves as
much as a few days in Goa…the land of my ancestors…and of delicious seafood.
We
had around four days to unwind in Goa before heading back to Mumbai. Although I
have close to a hundred relatives living in Goa, we chose to book ourselves
into a hotel close to Colva Beach. Graciano Cottages, a green-tiled,
one-storied building offers basic comforts and is suitable for couples and
tourists who plan on spending most of their time exploring the outdoors. The
rooms are not ultra luxurious, but fairly comfortable with a cozy bed, air
conditioning and the right amount of quiet and privacy. There is also an
in-house restaurant, and although the staff is courteous, service is rather
slow.
Like most tourists, we hired a car for the duration of our stay. Vehicles, both two-wheelers and four-wheelers are easily available from anywhere between 300-1000 Rs a day. One can avail of guided tours as well.
Colva
Beach, famous for its soft, white sands, is just a
two-minute walk from the hotel. Being an early riser I’d pick up a book and sit
at the beach while the morning sun crept up behind me. Even in the wee hours of
the morning there are quite a few people giving me company. There are bikini-clad tourists rubbing shoulders with locals in Indian beachwear that consists of saris and shalwaar suits. There are little fishing boats on he shore while fishermen draw in their nets.
The evening scene
is entirely different. The many shops catering to tourists are brightly lit and
little ice-cream carts dot the street leading to the beach. There are a number
of restaurants at Colva Beach and although they do serve some vegetarian fare,
it’s a total shame if one does not sample the delicious goan seafood that Goa
is famous for. Many of these restaurants and shacks have live music and karaoke
nights to entertain diners. So, great seafood, music and free flowing booze…..all
of it adds up to a fun-filled evening. Calamari, Stuffed Squid, Beef Chilly and
Masala fried Fish are the things to feast on. The local favorite – sausage
bread- is also a must have when in Goa.
However,
great food is available even in the cities and in the little, almost hidden
by-lanes of Goan villages. In fact, I’d say these little two-table eateries
serve the best food at the most pocket-friendly rates. It would do well to
explore a little and stray off the beaten path.
Wanting
to explore a little of the island of Divar, we drove to the city of
Panjim and boarded a ferry towards Divar. The short ride for our vehicle and
its three passengers cost us just ten rupees. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience
and were saddened to hear that the age old ferry system might be stopped in
favor of bridges connecting the island to the mainland. Divar is like the only
untainted and un-adulterated slice of Portuguese Goa. The quaint villas are
nestled among trees and it’s a picture-perfect village. Locals sit in the
veranda of their houses watching the world go by while others sit together in
the churchyard and discuss whatever it is they have to discuss. Life seems so
simple and easy-going here.
We
took the ferry back to Old Goa and, stopping a while at St. Cajetan’s, we drove
on towards the far north of Goa….Baga Beach.
Now,
although the South of Goa has much to offer tourists in terms of food, beaches and
the famous ‘sussegaad’ life, if you crave
nightlife, crowded streets and other such entertainment, then head to the
North. Calangute and its sister beach, Baga are the places you
need to visit. Previously the haunts of foreign tourists, today, these places
are famous even among Indian tourists. The streets are lined with night clubs,
restaurants, tattoo parlors and bars. More often than not, the place is too
crowded, especially in the evenings. If such revelry is what you seek, ensure
that you stay at one of the many resorts and guesthouses along the beach
itself. During peak season it is almost next to impossible to set foot here. Since
the streets are extremely narrow be prepared to sit through hours of traffic
moving at snail’s pace or, very often, not moving at all. To make the most of
your stay, avoid traffic and get decent accommodation it’s advisable to get
here at least a day or two earlier….especially for the New Year celebrations. Have
fun, but do be careful. Whispered stories and cases of drugs and mafia matters
are not uncommon here. Stay safe.
None
of us are drawn by crowds, so we turned around and headed back towards the
quiet South where we could breathe easy away from the sea of humanity that
seemed to have landed at Baga that weekend. Dinner was at the Ritz, in Panjim
and then, a long drive later, we hit the sack.
This
little holiday was one we hadn't planned in advance, but it was fun, relaxing
and just what we needed to refresh and rejuvenate ourselves.
Sorry....no pics taken this time. Was too keen on soaking up the natural beauty...just couldn't get myself to spend the time peering through the viewfinder of my camera.
