A Walk around Town.....Part One.

Churchgate Station --- Flora Fountain --- St. Thomas Cathedral --- Horniman Circle & Asiatic Library --- Gateway of India (Apollo Bundar) --- Colaba Causeway --- Afghan Church --- Khau Gally (Churchgate) --- Snowflake's (Dhobitalao) --- K Rustom's Ice-cream Parlour (Churchgate)

Komal got a new camera and it isn’t always that one gets a holiday at the start of a work week. These two reasons prompted us to spend Monday morning rambling around town with our cameras in tow. Now, when we Mumbai-wallas say ‘town’ we’re usually referring to somewhere around South Mumbai but I’m only speaking of Churchgate and Colaba. It's summer already here in Mumbai, so I'd already prepared to battle the heat by digging out my old, cheap, light and over sized kurta to be worn on days I set out to quench my wanderlust.

Leaving home at a little after 6 am, we arrived at Churchgate station which, at that early hour was almost deserted. Being residents of Mumbai, we do know our way around town, but nonetheless, I stopped at the Wheeler store and picked up a cheap, yet informative guide book which give information about all bus routes, train time-table, taxi fares and a fairly good tourist map for South Mumbai and the Suburbs. Tucking the book into my jhola (a sling bag made of cloth) and camera in hand, we began our walk at close to 6.40 am.

Our first stop was the exquisitely carved historical monument dedicated to the Roman goddess of spring, Flora. This fountain, designed by Richard Norman Shaw, was unveiled as Flora Fountain in the year 1864. The majestic statue of Flora stands atop the beautiful fountain located at the southern end of Dadabhai Naoroji Road, also known as Mile Long Road. This area also known as Hutatma Chowk (Martyr’s Square) is commonly known as Fort since the place where Flora stands is the exact spot where the original church gate of the Bombay Fort stood before the walls it was demolished in 1860. At peak hours, this spot is extremely noisy and polluted with smog and noise, but in the early hours of the morning, it’s a pleasure to sit a while and enjoy the beauty of Flora and the many crows that come to take a dip in the waters of the fountain.

Walking a few meters away from the fountain, we stopped next at St. Thomas Cathedral; Bombay’s first Anglican Church built in 1718 to cater to the religious needs of the British. One of the gates of the East India Company’s Bombay Fort was also the entrance to St. Thomas. Hence the nearby station is called Churchgate. Today, the street leading to the church is known as Veer Nariman Road. The foundation stone for this church was laid in 1676 but it was opened to the public on the Christmas of 1718. This church was consecrated a Cathedral in 1837. Within its cool and peaceful interiors, many a British officer, generals, clerks and maids are laid to their rest beneath ornately carved tombstones bearing eloquent elegies. There are also many spectacular stained glass windows that cast a serene riot of color across the tombstones and the stone floor of the cathedral. There is no fee to visit this pretty and historic monument, but it is a place of worship and must be treated as such. Photography is permitted and one cannot help but remain silent in awe of the calm that pervades inside this church. Here, one can actually believe that the dead are at peace.

Main Altar

Entrance

Pews

Stained Glass Window

The Word for all

Just behind this Cathedral lies the large, circular garden known initially as Elphinstone gardens. Today, we know it as Horniman Garden Circle, in honor of Benjamin Horniman, the editor of the Bombay Chronicle and a supporter of Indian Independence. The garden, planned in 1869 and completed in 1872, was a favorite social venue for the Parsi community and, in a live band used to perform here every evening in the pre-independence period.

The Asiatic Society Library & Town Hall overlooks the Horniman Garden Circle. It houses over a hundred thousand books of which at least 15,000 are rare and valuable pieces. The library is also home to one of the only two known original manuscripts of Dante’s Divine Comedy. Other that books, the library has many artifacts, manuscripts in Persian, Prakrit and Sanskrit, and also a numismatic section containing 11,829 coins. It has a map collection of 1300 maps. Although quite popular, the membership has dropped considerably due to the availability of information on the internet.

Walking down the many stairs leading to the Asiatic Library, we walked along the naval dockyard towards the Apollo Bandar. Being a defense area, photography isn’t encouraged, but I simply had to get a shot of the murals painted on one of the walls. En route to the Apollo Bandar, one also passes another heritage monument, which is today the Maharashtra Police headquarters and some other beautiful pieces of architecture, that make you wonder at the artistic sense of the British.

Murals

Police Headquarters

The Gateway of India, a monument built during the British Raj in Bombay (today known as Mumbai). The 26mtr high structure located at Apollo Bandar was built to commemorate the arrival of the British King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. Its design is a combination of hindu-muslim style of architecture and is a very popular tourist destination. 

The Gateway of India

The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel

It is here that one boards ferries headed towards Alibaug and Elephanta. There are five jetties at the gateway, of which one is no longer functional and two are closed to the general public. Sitting in the shade of the arched monument, we had a light breakfast and watched the slowly growing swarm of tourists as they posed for pictures, fed the pigeons, waited for the ferry or just sat around enjoying the sight of the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel. At night, this monument is lit with the colors of the Indian Tri-color and it was from this very spot that the British departed India on 28 February, 1948.

Having rested a while, we moved on towards Colaba Causeway, a usually bustling tourist shopping hot-spot, which, at that time of the day (approx’ 9.30am) was still asleep. We were headed to the Afghan Church, which is located in Navy Nagar. On learning that it was an extremely long walk ahead, we took the bus to our next destination of choice.

The Church of St. John the Evangelist, better known as The Afghan Church is an Anglican church in South Mumbai, built by the British to commemorate those who died in the disastrous Afghan War of 1838. Built of buff-colored basalt and limestone on the outside, we found this church rather beautiful with a haunting quality to it. Since the doors were all shut, we took a walk around the church and I must say we were very shocked at the amount of garbage that is strewn around the churchyard. We were rather dejected at not being able to enter the church and had just whispered a prayer towards Heaven, when we spotted one of the side-doors being opened by the caretaker’s wife. Requesting permission to enter for just a few minutes, we quickly shut the door behind us.

As opposed to the serene air that hangs over St. Thomas, the interior of this ancient church seemed heavy with a nameless feeling that I find unable to describe in words.  This could be because of the deafening silence and the almost dark and gray interiors. The only light was that that filtered in through the long, narrow windows and the stained glass panel at the east end of the church. Everything has an eerie feel here…the pews, the altar, the panels and the pillars. I could actually imagine Englishmen and ladies walking down its aisles and half expected to find some veiled figures sitting in one of wooden chairs, head bowed as if in prayer.  Komal says the place gave her the creeps, but, in spite of its slightly haunting quality, personally, I found the church quite arresting, especially the altar.

Out in the sunshine, it’s peaceful and bright with the sunlight streaming through the trees and the dried, yellow leaves strewn around at our feet. We sat awhile under one of the many banyan trees that dot the churchyard. While my companion wandered around clicking pictures, it occurred to me that while life continued beyond the walls of this church, here, time seemed to be still.

High Court

We then boarded bus route 103 and alighted at Regal. Our plan was to walk from here towards Churchgate station, admiring the lovely architecture that was all around us. This crescent shaped precinct, known as Kala Ghoda, is full of museums, art galleries and heritage structures. Here, one will find the Prince of Wales Museum (now known as Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangralaya), the National Gallery of Modern Art, the Arts Trust and, my favorite, The Jahangir Art Gallery.  We turned left at Watson’s Hotel, now known as Esplanade Building, India’s oldest surviving cast iron building, and stepped onto the Karamveer Bhaurao Patil Marg, with the Oval Maidan on one side of the street and the imposing Mumbai University and High Court on the other. 

The Oval Maidan

Mumbai University

Founded in 1857, the Mumbai University was established by Dr. John Wilson. The famous Rajabai Clock Tower standing 280 feet tall and was modeled on London’s Big Ben and is reported to have played 16 tunes. At a height of 30 feet from the ground, I’ve been told there are eight statues representing various Indian castes. Since the tower is currently undergoing some restoration work, I was unable to get any pictures. Well, there’s always another time!

Since it was lunch-time, we headed for Khau Gally, a tiny lane packed with tiny eateries catering to the busy Mumbaikar who’s looking for a quick, tasty meal. Here, one can feast on chaat items like sev-puri and bhel-puri, or enjoy some hot pav-bhaji or noodles and fried rice. Mini meals of vegetable, pulses and rice/roti are also available at a nominal price. If you expect to dine in style, then Khau Gally isn’t for you. Meals are eaten standing at the stalls while the rest of the world passes by.

Although I enjoy street food and have absolutely nothing against eating on my feet, I had my heart set on another place I always frequent when in town. Located in a by-lane at Dhobitalao, close to Marine Lines station, this 80 odd year old restaurant dishes out simple, yet delicious Goan fare. So, if you have a craving for some spicy fish-curry-rice, rechadio bangda or roast beef and pork vindaloo, head to Snowflakes. 

Originally owned by one Mr. Joaquim Pascal Ribeiro, this tiny family-run restaurant has a cozy home-like feel to it. There are old wooden cabinets, family photographs, marble topped tables and wooden chairs. Frequented by the many Goans who live in the neighborhood, Snowflakes tops my list of favorite places to dine at.

For dessert, we walked back towards K. Rustom Ice Cream Parlor, a 54-year old landmark located near Stadium House on Veer Nariman Road. 

Famous for its ice cream sandwich, a thick slab of ice-cream placed between two wafer biscuits, K Rustom’s offers more than 35 exciting, lip-smacking flavors all made at the parlor itself. Lacking the frills of modern ice-cream parlors, Rustom’s still holds on to its old-world charm and hospitality as it serves its signature sandwiches encased in butter-paper. A trip into town, for me, is incomplete without a gobbling at least two of Rustom’s ice-creams.

Our bellies filled, all we could do now was sit in a train and make the journey back home. There was much more I’d hoped to do, but I’ve put it aside for another day. For now, we’d had an enjoyable morning and wanted nothing more than a nice bath and some sleep.

Total expenditure-Rs. 320/- only. Not bad for an entire morning of fun, isn't it?

Pics by Misha.